Injector or Worse?

[OLDBULL8]

Correction, it's post #49.

Tried to tighten #4 at that time without loosening the ferrule. Lossen it yesterday and again today to tighten that same #4 injector back down.

You can't loosen the ferrule, only the hard line nut, if you didn't loosen the nut when you tightened the injector, you could have very well damaged the line.

 

[crash-harris]

Ok, gotchya.

If it is spraying fuel, it's a very very small amount. I'll go back out and start it, give it some throttle and see if I get any fuel from it. May just change the filter and full it worth ATF as well. If the line isn't cracked, do you guys think this could loosen up the nozzle enough to actuate like it should?

When I pulled the #6 injector out (in pieces) I reassembled it (so Russ will have all the parts) and the needle did indeed catch just at the very top of its travel, like there was some minute amount of build up on the shaft. Just don't have the funds to have the truck towed to where I can work on it. Thankfully is not freezing or raining here today. I'm planning on driving the truck this 20 miles Monday since it's suppose to refreeze so I don't destroy my grand parents back yard getting the truck into the garage.

 

[crash-harris]

It's definitely combustion gasses coming front the injector bore. Started it from under the hood and watched it. Both times the #4 cylinder hit before starting there was a puff from around the injector. I must say though, that I'm very suprised it fired on the 3rd crank. Shut it down after conforming no line leak and snapped this pic.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[crash-harris]

Just went out and fiddled with it some more. Started backing the line nut off and noticed it was twisting the line up! The injector was so loose again (already) that I had to hold it with the cresent wrench to keep from tearing the line up. Re-re-retightened #4 injector. Replaced the filter with a new Hastings filled with ATF and started it up. Ran for 3-5 minutes with no change in engine sound Guess I hit the return cap, noticed some bubbles under it, but more from the injector bore around the threads. After I shut it off, there was so much diesely blowby from the injector bore that the lines and clamp next to it were wet (line might be damaged now, even though it wasn't before). It had a noticeable miss, but it was intermittent. Going to let it the ATF sit overnight and see if anything acts different tomorrow.

Could the #4 injector have stuck CLOSED instead of open, causing it to de-seat the injector? Didn't see the hex head on it rotate while idling, so maybe worse under the load of driving the truck? When I replace the injectors and clean the bores, could I get away with PB Blaster and a pick or screwdriver to clean out the carbon build up? Would there be any adverse effects from letting the carbon fall into the precups/running the engine when I clean it?

This now has me a month behind schedule.

 

[crash-harris]

Anything on the question above?

Sorry about the frantic-ish bumping guys, just don't have the ability to pull it all apart here at the house like I wish I could.

Found part numbers for the reamer.

Ford part # T83T-9527-A

Kent Moore part #SE-4139

 

[crash-harris]

Found "very good" used injectors on ebay. Ordered 1 to swap with this problem #4 injector. I'll use a new copper washer when it shows up in an attempt to get it to seal. On a plus side, I'll have another injector with threads on it so Russ will get a complete set of 8 back as cores and I can keep the one I already replaced and ground the threads off of.

 

[typ4]

Stop using a crescent wrench. Plan on several hours at least when you change the set out. Get the truck where it needs to go ,but tighten the leakers first.
What happens is the combustion gas heats the Injector and siezes it, can be open or closed.

 

[crash-harris]

Yup, that's what'll happen. Used a socket and torque wrench on the loaner you sent. Now that the injector in front of it won't stay tight, I'll be doing the same thing when this used injector shows up. Only used the cresent to try and get this new problem injector tight without removing everything from the top of it as well. Looks like it'll be happening anyway, but seems like it was going to happen anyway. I forest noticed that #4 was loose the day that #6 stuck open. Guess this one stuck closed and the other stuck open. I'll also retorque #6 when I swap out #4. After that I'll be driving it to the garage no matter what (almost). Good news is the PM I send about grinding the threads off the first one can be ignored. I'll have all 8 plus the loaner to send to you when the remans arrive. Once the truck is in the garage, I'll be able to spend the time I need to get everything done right. I hate band aid fixes and working on 1.5" gravel in the cold is terrible. I can heat the garage with the concrete floor though Figuring it'll be about a month or so before it'll roll back out street I get it in there.

 

[typ4]

Get a 1 inch craftsman combination wrench, works great for this. Preferably one from a garage sale, old Sears tools are way better than the new stuff.

 

[crash-harris]

I know that, I used to sell them. Unfortunately I don't have one here, but my dad has at least one and I've probably got about half a dozen long dead branded ones in my shop on their property. I may ask my neighbor if I can borrow one. He's always tinkering with his heavy equipment. I should mention that when I cranked on it earlier today, I stopped when I started hearing a crunching sound. Either it was the brittle plastic on the old return cap, or something farther down in the injector bore and didn't want to risk screwing myself any more.

 

[crash-harris]

Well, I've now confirmed that #2 is doing the same thing. After start up, I get diesel seeping up the injector threads on #2 and #4, more so at #4. The one I replaced doesn't leak! But now the 2 in front if it do. It's snapping cold and I'm half tempted to make the trip through town (slower engine speeds) with fuel spewing out the injector bores. Not sure what has caused these other 2 injectors to start acting up other than tightening them. #4 was loose to the touch when #6 blew the return cap and #2 was barely snug and they weren't leaking through the threads like this.

 

[riotwarrior]

How far do u have to go to shop....diesel wont burst into flames like petrol....

Run it like u stole it!!!

 

[crash-harris]

About 20 miles. Engine will run longer if I drive through town, but will run harder (pumping more fuel) if I take the highway.

 

[dunk]

Bring your tools to the truck and do it at home? Sucks working outside, but I end up doing most of mine like that because the garage isn't deep enough. In summer I'll pull the front in, or for quick stuff in winter, but usually I prefer to have a heated space to retreat to and thaw out... Work in bursts. Though electric and air are right there since the garage is only a foot or two away. Just a thought. Either that or spend the $100 for a tow. Cheaper than wasting a bunch of time on bandaids that don't seem to be working, and cheaper than paying a shop to do half-assed work on it that you gotta double check everything and fix mistakes.

 

[crash-harris]

Around here, a tow for such a heavy/long truck for even 20 miles would be $200+ and my garage has no floor, insulation or eves between the walls and roof. There's no way I could heat it up enough the paint the new body panels (search "November 3rd", got hit and screwed the whole front clip). I'm bad in the cold too, dunno how riot does it, other than him being a crazy Canadian that more used to it