So I pop tested my junkyard CAV BB codes and got a good set of 8. Everything was going *******: pressures balanced at 1850-1900, nice spray patterns, etc. I started my truck up and have compression leaks going past the injectors on two cylinders. One of them is audible. I've tried cleaning them but can not get a seal. I've looked for a ream but to no avail.
Injector bore dirty - Injector won't seal
- Thread starter Koch13351
- Start date
Sorry yer too far away to come get a ream of yer injector bores.
I biught my kit on ebay
I biught my kit on ebay
Not to ask a stupid question..... but....
Did you replace the copper washer on the bottom of the injector, where it seats in the head? Did you get the old washer out when you took the other injector out?
Don't want to seem to start simple.... but I have troubleshot more than one "It won't turn on" was the fact it wasn't plugged in........ (I was a computer system/network administrator for over a decade)
Did you replace the copper washer on the bottom of the injector, where it seats in the head? Did you get the old washer out when you took the other injector out?
Don't want to seem to start simple.... but I have troubleshot more than one "It won't turn on" was the fact it wasn't plugged in........ (I was a computer system/network administrator for over a decade)
In a pinch, the old ones can be annealed (torch to red hot and plop in water) then lapped to get marks out (~300 and higher grit wet sandpaper on a sheet of glass, then lightly move object against sandpaper)
You can make a carbon reamer from an old gutted injector. Grind off the body threads and cut a few shallow grooves on the pintle cap.
You can make a carbon reamer from an old gutted injector. Grind off the body threads and cut a few shallow grooves on the pintle cap.
Don't know how I didn't think of this. I'll give this a shot for sure!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Where are you in So Cal??/ I have several reamers available to use. Either take this to a pm or talk openly here. As for cleaning out the seat area what you MUST do now is remove the leakers. Take a dental pick point and drag it around the seat area. When it stops moving thats an indication you found a cut in the cast iron seat in the head. The reamer screws down like a injector and you use a wrench on the cutter to clean up the seat. The small amount of cast iron chips will not harm the cylinders or the pistons. If any gets caught in the valve seats that too will crush and blow clear. You can use some grease on the cutter head to collect the chips too.
Snap on bore cleaning brush???
What Gary said...and to add a wee bit remove the FSS wire turn engine over few times prior to inserting new or replacement injector with new washers.
Key difference: My injector hack reamer will ONLY work to clean carbon out, you need the real tool to RE-CUT THE SEAT
Icanfixall, I am near San Bernardino. It would be awesome if I could use my that reamer! May as well cut a new seat if I'm already in there. I have a feeling somebody else that had this truck had this problem, and their fix was to put o-rings on the injector bodies where they screw together. Not sure if that is normal as I have pulled a lot of injectors from the junkyard and never once did I see one with o-rings on the body.
turbo elk
Full Access Member
I need to get that tool.... thanks riot.
So here's an update:
I got a bore brush, some carbon cutting solvent, made a carbon reamer out of an old injector, picked up some new viton O-rings and new copper washers and got to work. The cylinder that was giving me problems had an old injector washer buried in a ridiculous amount of carbon! So that would be THREE washers i got out of that bore after taking the old injectors out. No idea how I missed the last one. Almost every bore had more than one washer, so PO or their mechanic sucked. Then I got some serious chunks of carbon out of the bore when brushing it with a light amount of solvent. Didn't want any running into the precup/cylinder. A vacuum aided in getting it all out. The reamer worked perfectly. Got everything off the seat with ease. Then a shop towel with some solvent got the rest of it off. Nice clean seats now and no cuts in them so I don't need to use a cutting ream. Well, so far. I'm spending about 20-30 min per bore making them like new. Got a few more to do. Thank you guys so much for the info, especially the old injector reamer!
I got a bore brush, some carbon cutting solvent, made a carbon reamer out of an old injector, picked up some new viton O-rings and new copper washers and got to work. The cylinder that was giving me problems had an old injector washer buried in a ridiculous amount of carbon! So that would be THREE washers i got out of that bore after taking the old injectors out. No idea how I missed the last one. Almost every bore had more than one washer, so PO or their mechanic sucked. Then I got some serious chunks of carbon out of the bore when brushing it with a light amount of solvent. Didn't want any running into the precup/cylinder. A vacuum aided in getting it all out. The reamer worked perfectly. Got everything off the seat with ease. Then a shop towel with some solvent got the rest of it off. Nice clean seats now and no cuts in them so I don't need to use a cutting ream. Well, so far. I'm spending about 20-30 min per bore making them like new. Got a few more to do. Thank you guys so much for the info, especially the old injector reamer!
Wonder if piping in compressed air through a glow plug hole or compression tester would help keep from dropping crud into the cup. Preferably done with closed valves/TDC.
Put up a couple photos of your hacked old injector carbon reamer. It was just a spur of the moment idea I had... I think... May have read it somewhere maybe.
Put up a couple photos of your hacked old injector carbon reamer. It was just a spur of the moment idea I had... I think... May have read it somewhere maybe.
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