Ignition Switch Problems

[DieselJuice]

Been having problems with my ignition switch for about two days, where you'd turn it, let the glow plugs warm up and wait for the wait to start light to go off, and then you'd go to start it and it just acts like it bottoms out and nothing happens.

Well, last night it finally broke, and wouldn't start. So, I had to use a screw driver on the solenoid. My ignition switch itself isn't too terrible old...

Has anyone else had this problem before?

 

[theguruat12]

I have said issue when it's cold outside. Keep trying it and it fires up after a while.

 

[DieselJuice]

Well, I got the steering wheel off (Was planning on taking it off because my turn signal cam broke where it won't stay latched for turning right) and I can't remember the name of this part... But I'm pretty sure it's suppose to be rectangular and not having a chunk gone. Does anybody know the name of the part so I can get one? Or have any tips on how to replace? It'd be much appreciated!!

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[franklin2]

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Piece number 14 is usually what is broken. I got one from the Ford dealer, but I think the parts stores carry them now also. If you go to the dealer and tell them "that pot metal piece that breaks all the time on the old trucks in the column" they will know what you are talking about. They sell a boat load of these things, what a crappy design.

 

[theguruat12]

They have them in the Dorman HELP! section at AutoZone.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats the part that usually breaks. I too have forgotten the name of that stupid poorly designed part too. Its hell to install. Use plenty of grease on the gear teeth too and in the slide area. You really have to dig deep into the steering column to get this piece out. I think its easier to drop the column too. That requires the lower dash panels to be removed but thats easy. This broken piece connects to the long rod thats connected to the ignition switch.

 

[RocketScott]

Don't forget to disconnect the gear indicator cable when you drop the column.

 

[franklin2]

I talked to the steering column guy at the Ford dealer, and here's how he told me to do it, it worked great. First you need to take all the pieces out of the way till you can get to the broken piece. The broken piece will come out fine since it's in two pieces. That's when you discover the new piece that is not broken will not go in. He told me to;

-Take the two pivot pins out on either side of the column that the column tilts on. You can find some screws to thread in the pins and use a claw hammer or whatever.

-Get some snap ring pliers. While putting downward pressure on the column to hold it in place, take the snap ring out of the groove. He said "DONT LET GO OF THE COLUMN PIECE, KEEP PRESSURE ON IT". While you are holding pressure on the column, carefully slide it down just enough so the new piece will slide in past. Once it's in, slide the column piece back up and put the snap ring back in the groove.

 

[BioFarmer93]

My ignition switch itself isn't too terrible old...

When you say "switch" are talking about where you put the key, or the actual electronic switch on the column up under the dash? The reason I ask is because the one under the dash is usually the culprit in these cases..

 

[theguruat12]

Gary, I've seen it called an "Ignition Switch Actuator" in LMC, and in the Dorman package.

 

[ifrythings]

Dorman part #83280

Make sure to clean all the old dirty hard grease and put new stuff on, use a thin grease so you don't have issues in winter,

 

[DieselJuice]

Thanks for all your help! I haven't ripped into it yet, but I plan on it tomorrow. I'm pretty sure we had a mechanic replace the actuator a couple years ago, but if it's dorman stuff I'm sure it's what broke. I just thought if it were actually that part my ignition would just spin where as it actually does stop etc. My ignition switch isn't new, but my ignition(tumbler) is, I believe the switch is okay. I dunno, I'll get back with more info on it tomorrow for you guys, might make a video or something.

Thanks for all your help so far!

 

[HammerDown]

The ignition switch actuator lever isn't a difficult job and you're sitting down...can't beat that!
The tip in post #8 makes it a snap!

Also...for the turn signal cam...don't bother with the Doorman replacement cam/part it doesn't work, order the entire turn signal switch complete from Rock Auto. Part #SM66F (for tilt wheel)

 

[DieselJuice]

Also...for the turn signal cam...don't bother with the Doorman replacement cam/part it doesn't work, order the entire turn signal switch complete from Rock Auto. Part #SM66F (for tilt wheel)

Is the Rock Auto Part #SM66F as good as the BWD turn signal switch? Or the NAPA one? I'm not sure which turn signal switch I'd prefer to go with! Yeah, I saw that on the reviews for that replacement cam was a joke to say the least!

Also, is it just the dorman column lock actuator that is available or is there another company that makes them? Like OEM

 

[HammerDown]

Is the Rock Auto Part #SM66F as good as the BWD turn signal switch? Or the NAPA one? I'm not sure which turn signal switch I'd prefer to go with! Yeah, I saw that on the reviews for that replacement cam was a joke to say the least!

Also, is it just the dorman column lock actuator that is available or is there another company that makes them? Like OEM

Ok, so I wasted a lot of time trying to make the Auto Zone/dorman turn signal cam work, and I couldn't!
I can't give pro's or Cons to what Napa or BWD switch is like HOWEVER...I do know the part from Rock auto is made by "shee-Mar" under the name OE-Pro and I was very impressed, and at a great price too. Just installed it last February > lear from my mistakes here's my thread on it http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?67534-It-a-Always-Something-With-These-Old-Trucks

As for the actuator lever...I had the Napa part in hand, and I had the Ford part in hand...the Ford part was a few bucks more and I feel it was tooled a little better. Better casting marks, no sharp edges etc and felt a tad bit heaver in hand...so I took the Napa actuator back.

Again, if you can find a switch made by Shee-Mar, that's the one I would buy and use > BTW when purchased from Rock Auto, it comes with a two year warranty!