Ignition cylinder problem

[MtnHaul]

Well, just bought a 1990 F350 4x4 CCLB and I have my first problem. I went to start it and turned the key to run but something felt weird so I didn't try to start the engine--good thing I didn't because when I turned the key back to OFF or ACC nothing happened. The glowplugs and start lights on the dash all stayed illuminated and I had to disconnect the batteries to shut things off. So, I removed the ignition cylinder to examine things and now the key is stuck in the ignition cylinder and there is less than 90 degrees of rotation if I hold the cylinder and turn the key. Besides needing a new cylinder what all could be the problem here? I've never tore into this part of a truck before so any tips are appreciated.

 

[Nero]

Is it a tilt steering? There's a common part that breaks

Ignition Actuator, the easy way - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ignition Actuator, the easy way - As many many ford truck owners have experienced before me, I was hit with the my key turns but doesn't start the truck syndrome. The symptoms are usually: key powers up the accessories, can turn all the way forward...

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[MtnHaul]

Yes, tilt. Also, with a screwdriver I gently tried to turn the part that the cylinder inserts into and it only rocks back and forth a little bit.

 

[MtnHaul]

Good videos in that link.

 

[Nero]

I've changed three of those culprit pieces before. Hardest part is compressing the tilt spring to get a pin back in. Otherwise its pretty easy.

 

[MtnHaul]

All right, so I got the new actuator rod installed. The actuator rod slides back and forth through ACC, OFF, & RUN but it feels rather stiff though I have nothing to compare it to so maybe it will loosen with use/wear. And yes I did lubricate the slide points with lithium grease. I actually went by the regular procedure and did NOT cut off any portion of the new actuator rod. Dealing with the tilt mechanism wasn't so bad at all. But unfortunately the POS lock cylinder from NAPA wasn't even close to fitting. The machined strip opposite the pin that depresses and then locks the cylinder into the housing was quite a bit larger than the original. The original tapered from .175 to .188 roughly and the new one was roughly .198 all the way. Gotta' love the cheapness. There was no way it was going to fit without a BFH. Any advice on a reliable source for these lock cylinders?

Also, I removed the lock cylinder gear and was wondering if there are any tips/tricks to reinstalling it correctly. On the one hand it seems that due to the lock cylinder only being able to insert into the gear in one position that as long as the new cylinder is in the RUN position then however the gear aligns with that must be accurate, but I have been known to be wrong so I figured I'd ask. And the instructions with the new cylinder say it must be installed without the key--is this true?

 

[Clb]

Phawk
China
That said, did ya check lubricant on the bottom switch?
Seems like that one likes to gum up...
These are really good at causing headaches I watched an old coworker mess with a brick for 2 hrs before I knew the issues...

 

[MtnHaul]

I did lube everything that moves in there, basically. I can hit ACC, OFF, RUN, and START using a screwdriver but I'm not sure about the alignment of the lock cylinder gear as far as installing a new lock cylinder. I hope to hear from someone who knows about getting the alignment right between the lock cylinder gear, the thrust washer, and then installing the new cylinder in RUN position so the lock pin will depress fully--I'm still not seeing how it all works out. Also, does the thrust washer turn or just sit in the bore where the little keyway holds it in place? I swear when I removed the gear and thrust washer it had rotated from where it inserts. Maybe it needs the pressure of the snap ring to to push the thrust washer further in?

 

[KansasIDI]

I did lube everything that moves in there, basically. I can hit ACC, OFF, RUN, and START using a screwdriver but I'm not sure about the alignment of the lock cylinder gear as far as installing a new lock cylinder. I hope to hear from someone who knows about getting the alignment right between the lock cylinder gear, the thrust washer, and then installing the new cylinder in RUN position so the lock pin will depress fully--I'm still not seeing how it all works out. Also, does the thrust washer turn or just sit in the bore where the little keyway holds it in place? I swear when I removed the gear and thrust washer it had rotated from where it inserts. Maybe it needs the pressure of the snap ring to to push the thrust washer further in?

Snap ring is needed. I have a Napa lock cylinder in my 91, put in February. No issues that I can recall.

There are two gear teeth in the run position with the non tilt columns, only one position will work properly. No idea on the tilt columns.

Wrecking yards maybe? Otherwise Rock Auto might have something worthwhile from their more expensive options.

I think I have a couple spares laying around, if you have a rough time finding one worth a damn then I’d gladly give you one. I take a long time to send stuff out if you do decide to go that route.

 

[MtnHaul]

Snap ring is needed. I have a Napa lock cylinder in my 91, put in February. No issues that I can recall.

There are two gear teeth in the run position with the non tilt columns, only one position will work properly. No idea on the tilt columns.

Wrecking yards maybe? Otherwise Rock Auto might have something worthwhile from their more expensive options.

I think I have a couple spares laying around, if you have a rough time finding one worth a damn then I’d gladly give you one. I take a long time to send stuff out if you do decide to go that route.

I appreciate the offer. Maybe you can answer my question about the thrust washer. As far as I can tell the thrust washer can only go in one way and then does not rotate due to the notch in the collar and the little tab on the thrust washer aligning--is this correct? I should have taken a picture but it seemed that the thrust washer had rotated from the position where it drops into the little notch in the collar but I could be imagining things. I think I understand how to align the brass gear with the teeth on the lower ignition actuator. I pull the lower actuator back to the ACC position and then 1 or 2 tries to align the brass gear so that when it rotates clockwise it does not run out of teeth before hitting START, basically starting the brass gear teeth as far counter-clockwise as possible so that clockwise rotation has as many teeth as possible.
It's killing me having to wait until tomorrow afternoon to try another lock cylinder.

 

[KansasIDI]

I appreciate the offer. Maybe you can answer my question about the thrust washer. As far as I can tell the thrust washer can only go in one way and then does not rotate due to the notch in the collar and the little tab on the thrust washer aligning--is this correct?

Yes. If I recall correctly, that indeed would be correct.

 

[KansasIDI]

I think I understand how to align the brass gear with the teeth on the lower ignition actuator. I pull the lower actuator back to the ACC position and then 1 or 2 tries to align the brass gear so that when it rotates clockwise it does not run out of teeth before hitting START, basically starting the brass gear teeth as far counter-clockwise as possible so that clockwise rotation has as many teeth as possible.

This too is also correct as far as I know.

 

[MtnHaul]

Got the new lock cylinder installed and everything works just fine. One bonus to spending too much time on a relatively simple task is that you know that task inside out frontwards and backwards. Thankfully the upper bearings seemed tight and smooth so once I get a new turn signal cam I should be good to go. I have to say the upper bearings on the bricknose column are much more substantial than the upper bearing on my OBS. The OBS upper bearing feels very cheap and flimsy by comparison, yet it does the job for quite a while.