I think I need an exorcist

[icanfixall]

Any tank you pull fuel from will have about 80% of that fuel returned to it thru the return line system. Now this would mean nothing if you had an equalizing line off the bottom of both tanks. Then no matter what. both tanks will run down at the same rate. Only thing is you may get a little more or less for the front or rear tank. It just depends on how close to the bottom of the tank your shower head suction is.

 

[johneich]

93blk, someone else here on OB plumbed in manual valves, that might work for you. IIRC they were three way valves, two of them were used, they were plumbed to the left of the drivers seat on the floor. He took great pics and did a nice work up on it, its here in OB somewhere.

Sorry I do not remember who or when, maybe about a year ago, some one else here might remember more than I.

 

[93blklightning]

I'll check on that , its just a thought for now . At least until I get time to check it. I think a equalizer line in my factory tanks would be a lot of hassle. I might think about getting some of the small older mack side mount tanks

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[Mulochico]

I do have a question... haven't had much time to think this through . Let's say my fuel tank selector box is bad , don't know for sure , haven't had a chance to check it yet . I do know that at one time those boxes where very expensive . What would be the best way to omit the box altogether, and plumb both tanks together like on a semi ? Then again could you even do it seeing how on a big truck the equalizer line feeds and returns from the bottom of the tank..

That is exactly what I did about 4-1/2 years ago. It works great. I left the switch so that I can check the fuel level in each tank, but it isn't plumbed into the fuel lines, just the electric. It pulls from the front tank and returns thru both.

The thread is here: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?34465-Fuel-tank-switch-bypass&highlight=

I am a 30 yr veteran of the highways and when my TSV went bad I just didn't want to deal with it anymore. Check out the thread. If you have any questions, just ask or pm me.

 

[93blklightning]

That's EXACTLY what I was wanting . Just feed from the front tank, and vent the front tank from the return line in the top , return to the rear tank ,and an equalizer in between them both. This will work extremely well with my truck seeing how my front tank already sits roughly 2" lower than stock , due to my cab swap .

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[Mulochico]

That's EXACTLY what I was wanting . Just feed from the front tank, and vent the front tank from the return line in the top , return to the rear tank ,and an equalizer in between them both. This will work extremely well with my truck seeing how my front tank already sits roughly 2" lower than stock , due to my cab swap .

I ended up running a "T" in the return and went to both tanks as when I had it returning to just the rear tank, no matter how I tried to plug it, the unused return line would leak. I did 1 tank at a time as I was needing the truck for DD. I put the valves (oil rated) on so that I could remove either tank w/o having to drain both.

 

[93blklightning]

That "T" would make sense , both tanks are connected anyway . So it doesn't matter which tank it returns to , as long as their is room , and everything is sealed up.

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[Mulochico]

The return goes to the path of least resistance. If 1 tank is full it goes to the 1 that's not. Since putting in the "T" I haven't had any problems.

 

[93blklightning]

Sounds like a winner to me

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[Zaggnutt]

That is exactly what I did about 4-1/2 years ago. It works great. I left the switch so that I can check the fuel level in each tank, but it isn't plumbed into the fuel lines, just the electric. It pulls from the front tank and returns thru both.

The thread is here: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?34465-Fuel-tank-switch-bypass&highlight=

I am a 30 yr veteran of the highways and when my TSV went bad I just didn't want to deal with it anymore. Check out the thread. If you have any questions, just ask or pm me.

Great write up! I have a bad switch valve right now and just bought the ball valves to run manual switches... This is a great alternative! It is cheaper than the manual switch too. Best price I could find on 3 way valves with a metal ball is $26 per x 2 plus 6 barbed 90*s, clamps and fuel line. I'll tell you what though, you want a great price on Green Barricade fuel line - eBay has people selling multiple lengths for a little over a buck a foot!!! NAPA is $4 a foot.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Sounds like a winner to me

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If you would opt for the manual in cab switches, there are several great write ups. Just do an Advanced Search for "manual tank selector" and you will get a bunch of info. Either way, good luck! Keep us posted!

 

[93blklightning]

I will , I appreciate all the help . Now just finding the time

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[93blklightning]

Mulochico.. I do have one question. did you seal the inside of the tank around the fitting with Jb weld or did you use a rubber fitting/gasket?

 

[93blklightning]

Well ... finally some good news. I had a lot of errands to run today, getting ready for that big storm headed this way tomorrow. My ford is the only truck I've got running right now, my Toyota is down for now. So just out of curiosity, I switched to my front tank to see if it made any difference. She ran all day with no problems. Guessing, I'd say I turned her off 20 or so times today and restarted her with no issues. So that pretty well narrows it down to an issue with the rear tank. Probably with the shower head, like one of you guys mentioned earlier. that's a big relief, for now anyway. But as soon as the weather breaks, I'm DEFINTLY deleting the switch box, and linking both tanks. while I've got the tanks out, I think I'll go ahead and take the shower heads off, and replace them with a piece of fuel line, like was suggested earlier also. (for a little piece of mind) Can't wait to get my new motor in two weeks (new to me anyway) '93 7.3 IDI, 93,000 original miles. And finally get that GTP-38 turbo on her. My '90 7.3 IDI is getting tired. 600,000+ miles. But I'm going to hang on to her, I'm debating making a generator out of her. She still has plenty of power, just needs head gaskets, leaking oil to the outside of the block. No oil in the water, or water in the oil , just pouring it out on the road.

 

[Mulochico]

Mulochico.. I do have one question. did you seal the inside of the tank around the fitting with Jb weld or did you use a rubber fitting/gasket?

Sorry it took so long to reply, I am on a run to Myrtle Creek, Or.
All I used was the JB Weld. No gasket, just metal to metal.
Inside the tank I used Brakelean to get rid of the residue then scuffed it as best I could. Then the JB between the fittings and the tank sides inside and out. Be sure to have it lined up as JB only has a limitted time to set up. I used the regular not the quick setup so i had a bit more time.
Good solid seal, and no leaks in 4-1/2 years.
All fittings and hoses are oil rated and/or diesel rated. Valves on each tank at the crossover hose.