I think I found the "real" problem!

Brutis

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O.K. I've been bouncing all kinds of ideas around in my head (and others too - especially my dad), but tonight I may have finally figured out the real issue with my truck.

I've posted a couple of previous threads relating to what initially seemed like a major engine problem. Truck would bog down and grind to a halt when starting. Eventually would start and make a horrible rapping sound. I found oil leaking out the drivers side valve cover as well. So my truck sat for about a month b/c I had no time to mess with it. This weekend I swapped out injectors with some that I knew were good (tested BBs) and changed the oil (Oil pan was flooded with fuel - I completely overflowed my 12 quart drain pan). The truck started fine and actually sounded fairly good too. It did shudder and vibrate alot and there was still an intermittent clatter. Idle speeds seemed close to normal.
I pulled out my stethoscope and listened to every cylinder everything sounded fine:dunno. But still the rapping sound. So I called my wife out and asked her to point to were the sound was coming from. She pointed at the radiator.
I had kind of been leaning towards the front of the motor for a unusual sound as well - earlier thought maybe a fan clutch problem. I crawled under the truck and noticed that one of the corners where the radiator mounts was broken and causing the rapping sound as the motor shook. Great! I found the noise:thumbsup: But what caused the problem in the first placecookoo?

Would I be way off base to think that the problem all along was a bad injection pump that caused the cylinders to flood, mess up my timing (causing the shake), and hence breaking the radiator mount? That's where I'm leaning right now, so I may be a pump swap (I have one) and dynamic timing away from running properly?

Sorry for the super-long post, but I wanted to get the background in to make things clear. I'm so excited to think that my truck may be running again soon!:D

I figure if OB can't figure it out no one can. Any thoughts?

Thanks a ton!
 

LCAM-01XA

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I dunno man, I had one of my injectors loosen up so bad the engine shook the whole truck at idle and I drove her home like that about 200 miles pulling a car (didn't have a choice in that matter), never did break anything and my rad support is pretty rusty to begin with...
 

Fozz

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I don't think the IP or injectors can cause your oil/fuel problem. Do you still have the factory mechanical fuel pump? I think there's a rubber diaphram on it separating the pump from the engine internals. If that diaphram is broken or has a hole in it, you might be pumping fuel into the engine there - someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Brutis

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Yes, I'm using a mechanical lift pump - I replaced it about 14 months ago. I should look into that as well. My thought was possibly there was enough fuel in the cylinder(s) to force its way past the rings? I was definitely experiencing hydrolock - but no coolant issues.
 

sassyrel

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Yes, I'm using a mechanical lift pump - I replaced it about 14 months ago. I should look into that as well. My thought was possibly there was enough fuel in the cylinder(s) to force its way past the rings? I was definitely experiencing hydrolock - but no coolant issues.

the one problem with flooding the crankcase with fuel--it dilutes the oil bad--which is extremely ******* bearings!! hope it didnt pound out the babbitt in the bearings----because by the time you hear bearing knock in a diesel--its near too late------------
 

Brutis

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yeah, but I don't think I mess the bearings up yet. With new oil in I ran it last night and the motor itself sounds perfect with my stethoscope. I didn't run it under load much at all in that condition either, so hopefully the internals survived!
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yes, I'm using a mechanical lift pump - I replaced it about 14 months ago. I should look into that as well. My thought was possibly there was enough fuel in the cylinder(s) to force its way past the rings? I was definitely experiencing hydrolock - but no coolant issues.
Yeps, that is definitely possible - especially since the engine hydrolocked and the fuel just sat in there instead of getting burned off right away, it would have eventually leaked past the rings and right down in the crankcase. How high was your oil level, a hydrolocked cylinder will not contain enough fuel to make your dipstick show way too high, nothing like a leaky lift pump would given enough time.
 

Brutis

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The dipstick showed almost normal - i think maybe a tad high.

I'm in process of swapping pumps right now. I took of the oval shaped cover under the oil fill neck and found those 3 5/16 16point bolts loose. Could that be part or all of the problem? Should I use loctite on those bolts to keep them from backing out? What's the procedure for those?
 

Agnem

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No, they are not your problem. Don't use any kind of loctite on them. Just torque them to the correct value.
 

Brutis

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What is the torque setting for those? I see in the manual injection pump drive gear cover bolts 14 but I don't think that is the right thing. Another question, should the round piece with the alignment dowel move around "easily" or should it be pretty much solid? Thanks.
 

Diesel JD

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Actually I had a bad injector pump that overfilled my oil pan...thankfully I stopped driving it before it got too bad. The newer pumps are not supposed to do that even when they fail...but hey, I have seen it, it can happen. The worrisome thing is that if you have hydrolock it can bend rods...something's got to give. And oh yes a bad pump or one severely out of time can cause many bad harmonic vibrations. Some members here have theorized that this is what killed a lot of Ford's dual mass flywheels. The good and bad thing about these trucks is that they will run half decent when stuff like this is far from perfect or even good.
 

Agnem

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On my trucks, it's always as hard as I can push the little 5/16" wrench with my thumb. My thumb is calibrated by teamtorque.com. If you haven't sent your thumb out for calibration, I wouldn't trust it. LOL
 

LCAM-01XA

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The dipstick showed almost normal - i think maybe a tad high.
Then your lift pump probably ain't leaking, as they can really fill up the crankcase.

I'm in process of swapping pumps right now. I took of the oval shaped cover under the oil fill neck and found those 3 5/16 16point bolts loose. Could that be part or all of the problem? Should I use loctite on those bolts to keep them from backing out? What's the procedure for those?
Definitely not normal, they should be tight!

No, they are not your problem. Don't use any kind of loctite on them.
Why not? Don't these bolts already have the blue thread-lock compound on them from the factory?
 

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