I Made An Uh-Oh....

[biggin92]

We got it pulled out about 20 mins ago, he should be posting pics in a few.

 

[flareside_thun]

We'll see Brimmstone....I do appreciate the offer.





So, does anyone like magic tricks??????

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Ta-Daaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!

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The broken piece is roughly 4 inches wide for the majority of it.....

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[biggin92]

ok i solved your problem! we put my e4od in and i will just have that zf welded up and stuff it into my truck

 

[RLDSL]

Nope, not the adapter towcat, it's the bellhousing up and over the top from what I can feel. Will have it out completely in a few...waiting on another set of hands since I'm not comfortable snatching it out with a regular old floorjack.

You can get a conversion plate that will fit in where the pin for the regular saddle on you floor jack sits that has a tranny jack tilt table setup. It's not quite as stable as a good trany jacj ( most tranny jacks have a wider footprint) but its better than nothing)

 

[dsltech83]

So next question is what caused that and will it just do it again? I'd hate to do all of that work for nothin.

 

[rjjp]

The short response to this is yes, cast iron can actually be welded. But there are few welders suited to do so and they mostly work on railroad diesel heads. Why do I know this? Because my business is 95% cast iron, and I used to get it welded from time to time. It is expensive, time consuming and you need to not only remachine the part, you have to deal with probable warpage. The parts are heated to cherry red (about 2000 degrees F) in order to lay a bead, and there is still a high incidence of holes and hard spots.

Way easier just to get another part.

Using nickle rod is not welding iron, it is brazing.

Already know the process, never realized the price... If I need something welded that I'm not comfortable doing, I hand it to my dad and say weld this (at which point he usually tells me to fix something), he owned and operated a welding/machine shop for 25 years.

 

[biggin92]

come to find out it only had 5 bolts in it , and 8 months ago when he got the truck all the tranny bolts where loose,so he tightened them up , and when we went to pull them back out only the bottom two on the drivers side were tight so the whole passenger side was loose,witch is what caused it. i think

 

[OLDBULL8]

Sure glad I didn't know you couldn't do it when I welded up all those exhaust manifolds with nickle rod and a lot of other cast iron parts, even cast iron parts on PTO mounted rototillers. Now I'm scared to weld that 460 exhaust manifold tomorrow.

 

[flareside_thun]

Welp, I found bolt number 6 today while I was pressure washing this greasy ******* at school. And it only took 2 of the 3 passes I did with Purple Power and the wand to find it! Anyways, I spent a good hour just pressure washing and another 45 minutes sandblasting the broken off piece getting it prepped for welding....They took it in and were doing their prep when I left school so hopefully it'll be done tomorrow or so.....

 

[towcat]

Welp, I found bolt number 6 today while I was pressure washing this greasy ******* at school. And it only took 2 of the 3 passes I did with Purple Power and the wand to find it! Anyways, I spent a good hour just pressure washing and another 45 minutes sandblasting the broken off piece getting it prepped for welding....They took it in and were doing their prep when I left school so hopefully it'll be done tomorrow or so.....

what process are they using? MIG or TIG?

 

[typ4]

Easy fix, time consuming but easy, I usually bolt the adapter on to hold it all in alignment.

Big tungsten and lots of clean filler rod, 4043, anything else will be to brittle when it cools, and post heat it so it cools slow, it may save cracking. I would replace trans mount at the minimum, engine ones if all oily. And use blue loctite on the bolts, no lockwashers, just hard flats, not the hardware store crap.

 

[TWeatherford]

Wow, sorry to hear that. Sounds like it wasn't properly installed. When I yanked my transmission for the first time one of the lowest bolts wasn't even threaded in, it was just sitting there.

 

[flareside_thun]

They'll be using TIG on it. As for the adapter plate keeping the alignment.....the break is really clean and is only the one piece. Test fitting the broken piece on there, you can get it to where the brake looks like casting marks so it's gonna be a nice tight fit.

 

[bike-maker]

Better bolt that adapter on it. Aluminum moves around quite a bit when heated (welded), and that is going to be ALOT of heat. I would also recommend "V-ing" out that crack until the break line is almost gone; the more rod you can sink into it, the better.
As someone who has done repair on cast aluminum heads/blocks and other misc. pieces, it's really not much harder to weld than regular aluminum stock; the main battle with a TIG is getting the metal really clean. Pre heating it aids in burning the old oil and grease out of it. Preheating to about 400-500 degrees works well if you have a infrared gun to check the heat with (a couple hundred more than that, and it turns to mush).
As for repairing cast iron; we used to only weld on it when the broken parts were something that is no longer available; it will never be as strong as it once was, but will probably hold together just fine. We used an arc welder with cast iron rod and the amperage cranked up pretty high.
And from my days resurfacing exhaust manifolds; 460 ford and 440 dodge truck manifolds have a really high nickel content and are therefore harder than the hinges of hell.......not sure how that would effect welding on them.

 

[icanfixall]

The break must be vED out or you will not have proper penatration to hold. Tig is the only real sure way to weld something like that. Putting on the adapter plate will insure nothing moves areound... And I know it will move around with the heat needed. But you will know when you try to install it. Just don't force any bolts thru the holes or tighten it down till the joint meets up with the adapter plate....