hydro-boost with napa numbers

[Deezelcaddy]

I am tired of my weak brakes and I'm pretty sure my booster is about to crap out. I decided to do the hydro-boost swap as many have suggested on this website. I have found many threads with advance and other part numbers but my local auto parts is a NAPA and I buy everything from them(except for my reinz gaskets which I get from my local german auto parts haus). This is a small town and they still have the old time super knowledgeable staff. I found a hydroboost off an 89 F450 w/ master cylinder for $75 at a local junk yard. I was going to get this steering pump w/ reservoir.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/P-S-Pump-w-Reservoir-Remfd/_/R-NSP817789F_0462308798
It is for a 99 super duty . Mine is starting to whine and I figured I would have it all drained down anyway. Does this look like the one? Will it bolt up? Will my pulley fit or will I need the super duty one? I'm guessing I will need some weatherhead adapters for the lines but I can eye them up when I pick up the parts? Or is the ford part E5LY-3A697-A a necessity? I realize stealership parts are better but i can have this in my hand tomorrow and I have never had a problem with a napa steering pump before. Someday I want to switch to a gm "canned ham" style but that will have to wait. Maybe till this chinese reman dies.
I was going to get the 2 supply hoses they recommend
part #s NPS 72223 hydro-boost to gear and
NPS 73277 pump to hydro-boost
They list 3/8 bulk hose for the returns? Is this correct?
I think this is all I need with the exception of the pedal but i was just going to move the pin up the 3/4" described by others. I am also going to replace all the rubber brake lines on the truck. This seems to be a recommendation from those who have attempted this. My wheel cylinders are new.
Thanks to all for their helpful threads and any comments you may have on mine. I know it is a lot of questions but I thought I could re-organize it and repost it when I get it all figured out.

 

[cpdenton]

99 superduty pump might be able to be modded to work, but if you go order a power steering pump for your year model truck, but order it for an f-superduty ( the real name for f-450s) it will bolt right in just like the pump you have now. You will need a power steering pulley puller though.

http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/PartDetails.aspx?Id=NSP817789F_0462308820

This is a link to the right pump for a serpentine belt system.

Seems like all the lines are right too.

 

[riotwarrior]

Pump should work fine, not sure if your pulley would fit or not however as far as I know all C2 pumps have same shaft size V belt and Serp belt models.

Saginaw pump aka GM Canned ham as you call it is tricky to find unless you get one from a Diesel Ford Van

Return should be 3/8 IIRC and I would add in a filter of some sorts too btw. Now is the perfect time to add one since your adding all these parts. It increases fluid capacity and cooling if you get a spin on kind or the magfilter inline one would work too.

Sounds to me like you have done most of the research and just need to bite the bullet.

Good luck, you won't regret it once done!
JM2CW

 

[cpdenton]

Haha! I just looked at our two links. They link to the same parts! Must be right then!

 

[SDEconVan]

You can get the "Canned Ham" style Saginaw pump from late-70's Lincoln's as well...

 

[icanfixall]

You seem to have the correct parts. Honestly I'm not in favor of the pin relocation. Reason is thats a harder material brake peddle then you think. 7018 rod is not what I would use IF I were to change the pin. I would use either 8018 or 9018 because they are for 1 1/4 or 2 1/4 chrome metal welding. If later on you decide to change the peddle make sure you know to get an auto or manual trans peddle. The manual trans peddle has a much larger bore diameter. Mel found this out the hard way after he repositioned the pin. Painted it up and tried for a long time to install an auto peddle in his manual trans truck. It no fit and he was imbarrassed. Well **** happens and I do like dogs do. They kick some grass on that **** and forget about it.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Thanx to all, there is a lot of great information in this thread. I got my hydroboost with master cylinder today. I might just wallow out the holes on mine to fit. I'm not wild about a single resevoir master on a truck that's old enough to drink in a bar. I feel like a divided resevoir is safer in the event of a blow out but that is anecdotal at best. I would not be surprised if you guys said it made no difference. I got the pressure and supply lines at Napa. I may heed Gary's advice and continue my search for the proper brake pedal. I may just hook it up lower to my existing pedal for now. I have read several posts where the pedal wasn't modified with good results.
As for the steering pump, I found a pump and bracket from an 80's econoline for $30 at the local salvage yard. The late 70's Lincoln Saginaw pump seems to be a unicorn that everybody lists and nobody has. Talk about a " lead sled". A full size car with a 460 and hydro boost. It probably outweighs my truck. I might just get the Saginaw pump that fits the van I got the bracket from and weld or solder an extra return port in it where it best fits the system. I will wait till I have the hydroboost set up in my truck and see what will work best. I'm thinking I will need some chat pressure lines anyway. For now I'm either going to t the returns or use the super duty pump. Thanx for all the advice.

 

[riotwarrior]

it is a divided reserviour just so you know.

I'd just drill and use a 9/16" bolt with bare shank for new pin, push through hole weld in place cut off drill a cotter hole and be done! That's me...just me.

Best find brackets and pump from a diesel van that's the best bet. No other brackets work without modification IIRC.

I'd start with the C2 Ford pump, and work out details of changing pumps later on. This keeps it all simple and clean.

Good luck.

 

[TahoeTom]

I drilled and tapped my pedal for a 9/16 bolt. The pedal didn't seem hard. I cut off flush on backside, removed and chamfered the hole and bolt to allow weld penetration.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

I have all of my parts. Master and hydro from the junkyard. I picked up the power stroke steering pump with interior filtration, new steering pressure lines, return hose, 5 qts Mercon instead of power steering fluid, dot 3, all three new brake hoses and clips from Napa. I cleaned and painted my hydroboost and cleaned the master. I will be using the hydro master instead of mine. I test fit all the hoses and they fit. I was worried about the 88 lines fitting the 99 pump. Tomorrow is the day. I have a few questions left. I'm concerned about bleeding the hydro without starving the steering pump. Is there a method to this or is it just some extra hand priming on the pump? Also, I think I may just replace all the brake lines while I am at it. The rears have been done in the last 2 mos. I am in the buckle of the rust belt here in Pennsyltuckey and I'm sure the others are near failure. How much brake fluid do our trucks hold? I have a mity vac to pull it through the system so bleeding will finally be easy. Thanx for all the help so far. I will update my progress when finished and I'll try to take some key pics.

 

[franklin2]

Since you live in Pa, I would check the hard lines as well. I have busted several on several different trucks I have owned. The front wheels throw salt all over the hard lines right where they go over the front frame rails and into the hose brackets.

Another place the lines like to rust are midway down the driver's side frame rail, along the side of the gas tank. If you see any heavy pitting, I would replace these lines, I usually use the universal lines from the parts stores.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Everything went pretty well with one big exception. I over tightened the pressure hose from the boost to the pump and broke the fitting at the pump.
I guess it is 10-20lbs max. I ordered a new one that will be in at 8am tomorrow.
The conversion was pretty straight forward but the brake lines were a nightmare.
I replaced pretty much all of them.
I used the copper nickel lines. They are super easy to bend. I also replaced all the hoses and I vacu bled the system. Just waiting on the line and I should be done. Thanx for all the help.

 

[metalminded]

pix or it didn't happen

 

[laserjock]

I used the copper nickel lines. They are super easy to bend.

I need to look into this. Did you flare it yourself or buy it pre-flared. I have never seen this stuff before. Typically you don't use copper on brake lines because it work hardens over time and gets brittle. I guess they have solved that problem with the alloy. I see several places sell it. This might save me a ton of money on pre-bent stainless line. I think I have all the complicated lines on the parts truck so it's not rocket science to bend up and run a line to the back for the rear. Thanks for sharing that and good luck on completing your project.

I will also echo franklin's warning to look closely at the line going to the rear of the truck. I have broken 2 of them myself. Luckily, the truck wasn't moving either time. the rot right about the fuel selector valve up in that area like between the bed and cab where it goes through the cross member. My reg cab and my supercab both did it at the exact same spot.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

I have been running my hydroboost for a week now and it seems that the steering system needs to be bled. The pump has more of a grower than a whine. I hand primed it and then jacked it up and turned lock to lock 5 or 6 times and it felt fine. Steering seems fine and the brake system is bled out. Any ideas? Thanx