HX40 turbo swap/ injector questions

[tanman_2006]

I wouldnt hesitate to get Mel's 6.5/6.2L pump and injectors. Fortunately my truck has a fairly new IP and I only need injectors. I pointed a couple guys to him and they are happy with his stock rebuilt IP w/ a maxed fuel screw (buyer maxed the screw).

Leroydiesel sells what is called a kojo tune which is known for good 94-95 tunes (does 96-00 too) and has selectable tunes (94-95 only). The thing with OBD1 91-93 DB2 Mechanical IP trucks with a 4l80 is they use the same PCM as the 94-95 DS4 Electronic IP, only difference is there is no Injection pump control on it and it only controls the tranny making it a TCM. A 94-95 ECM can be programmed with the engine parameters shut off and put in a DB2 equiped truck and control the engine just fine.

 

[Evan Adams]

yes the injectors in my truck were actually bought from mel. I got them from a guy who was parting out a blown up 6.5 the injectors had 100 miles on them and i got them for 150 bucks. After talking to the guy he found the reciepe in the truck for them and they were from him. And yes i eventually plan on buying a Junior moose pump from mel and have talked to him about it and he says it will be a good pump match for my truck. And also just so you know im not loaded on cash as im 16 a junior in highschool and i work 4 hours a day on a farm for a tax free 7 bucks an hour lol. Im quite new to the idi world as the only other diesels ive been around are my dads 02 lb7 duramax and the 94 cummins farm truck. Im have already complete redone this truck as it was a county highway salting truck and i had to put a new bed, front clip, and completely repaint it. So i work on it paycheck to paycheck. Im just looking for ideas on what to do to make improvements. And thankyou for all the info you have given me thus far.

 

[tanman_2006]

Stock trans tuning isnt that bad. You will be pushing the truck pretty hard before you ever get it to kick the bucket. My buddies 93 Auto 6.5L w/ ATT did just fine stock but I helped him get the trans tune and it is better but I wouldnt get stuck on putting money into it just yet.

These trucks dont cost alot to mod (compared to say a cummins, powerstroke, or Dmax). Get an exhaust first, the stock down pipe is very restictive. My 93 has a down pipe and 6ft stick of 4" w/ a 45* turn and 5" tip peaking out from the frame. Loud and smokes pretty good if you try, smoking on purpose is not recommended. Get EGT, Boost, and fuel pressure gauges (leroy diesel has a cheap fuel pressure tap and boost tap). Leroy is a good guy and wont steer you wrong, he custom machines his parts too.

 

[tanman_2006]

I an effort to stop further Hi Jacking of the other thread, here is an Idea of NV4500 prices. You are going to be in donor truck territory easily w/ clutch, flywheel, clutch/brake pedal assembly, master cyl, slave cyl, TRANS, Bell Housing, possible driveshaft length changes, and misc parts (oil, nuts, bolts, wiring, sensors, TIME).

Then figure in, you know your auto tranny is functioning ok and for a DD 300K isnt unheard of with 50K mile drain/fill service and 100K filter change (or add an external filter). @150K the solenoids and wiring harness (maybe $200 for the set) are typically on the down hill slide (doesnt mean they wont keep working).

Now if you buy a NV 4500: plan on needing synchros (they are touchy when abused), if you tow hard bearings literally weld themselves to the main shaft (dont ask how I know), some people never have clutch issues but longest I've had one last is 200K (truck isnt to 400 yet and its on its 5th tranny rebuild now lol), and all that comes up to the tune of 1500 MINIMUM for a shop to go through the tranny and 400 for a LUK clutch.

Compare that to a 4L80 that costs ~1000 for a typical rebuild w/ OEM converter (puts you in stock nv4500 holding capability). Billet tripple disk converters are ~4-500, and all upgraded internals/hard parts add ~500 (unless you shop for deals over time). The tripple disk and upgraded hard parts arent needed unless you gross 20K daily in the mountains or run WOT 24/7.

http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/4216043525.html

 

[Evan Adams]

Alright well I will probly stay with the auto. I just always wanted a manual. I should be getting an exhaust soon as a local exhaust shop put a 4 inch system in for 125$ that the exhaust bought and installed. I plan on next year rebuilding the trans any way as the state highway was ruff on it. I plan on a monster in a box kit with one of there performance torque converter as mine is going south. Also I'm talking with mel right now about some isspro gauges and yes I'm buying the fuel and boost things from Leroy. I'm also buying the inline fuel filter to delete the fuel tank sock and I'm getting his walbro FTC-10 lift install kit. After I get my gauges I will probly turn up my pump as I believe I'm not getting a good air to fuel mix. Also does your turbo light very fast? I don't know why but mine will light and whistle at like 2k.

 

[tanman_2006]

My stock turbo lit by 1500. The stock spring canister only allows 8psi max and 6psi sustained. You can move it to 12 psi before you get into the danger zone in with a stock turbo. You can build a turbo master spring kit, dont mess with that until you get gauges though. It doesnt take much to get the stock boost psi out the roof and also cause EGT's to get high.

Your exhaust shop probably wont build a down pipe for that price. The biggest that will fit easy is 3" for the turbo down pipe. $100 will buy a down pipe. The down pipe is important, if it doesnt flow good the turbo will take longer to spool. If you pull the down pipe you will see it is twisted, smashed, and dented from the factory and there is no way it can flow right.

I have a set of 6" bull hauler stacks for my 93 but I dont have the y or anything yet. Hasnt been a priority.

 

[Evan Adams]

Yeah that's only for after downpipe out and yeah I'm going to buy a crossover and down pipe kit it's like 136 on eBay. But it say 95-98 only but aren't they all the same?

 

[tanman_2006]

Yeah, you will be fine with those.