Waystro
No Class
How to replace front rotors calipers and rotors on my 86 f250 2wd
Any body have a guide?
Any body have a guide?
How to replace front rotors and calipers
- Thread starter Waystro
- Start date
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
calipers come off with 2 pins ( two pieces of sheet metal with a rubber center) on the top and bottom of the caliper, us a small punch and a hammer to get them out.
im sure you can figgure out how to remove the rubber line ( i would rplace thse as well) from the steel line that mates together near the frame. righty tighty, lefty loosie!
rotors should come right off after that, if not, the hub needs to come off, use a hammer to drive the wheel studs out.
if this is the case (like my 4wd) purchase new wheel studs. and press thm back in to the hub and rotor.
im sure you can figgure out how to remove the rubber line ( i would rplace thse as well) from the steel line that mates together near the frame. righty tighty, lefty loosie!
rotors should come right off after that, if not, the hub needs to come off, use a hammer to drive the wheel studs out.
if this is the case (like my 4wd) purchase new wheel studs. and press thm back in to the hub and rotor.
FoolhardyIDI
Full Access Member
The caliper is held in place by two metal/rubber slide pins. (there can be a bolt that retains the slide pin) Hit them with a large punch to slide them out. (use some PB Blaster to loosen up the slide pins if needed)
Now hang the caliper up with some mechanic wire or bungee cord to keep weight off the brake hose.
To remove the rotor you need to pull the dust cap off the center hub. There will be a cotter pin holding a nut in place. Remove cotter pin and nut, the rotor will slide off the spindle. While the rotor is off its a good idea to replace the bearings and race's.
Now hang the caliper up with some mechanic wire or bungee cord to keep weight off the brake hose.
To remove the rotor you need to pull the dust cap off the center hub. There will be a cotter pin holding a nut in place. Remove cotter pin and nut, the rotor will slide off the spindle. While the rotor is off its a good idea to replace the bearings and race's.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
FIRST I suggest do one side at a time...other side complete for reference to view 
hint hint...
Jack up ONE side
Remove tyre
tap out slide pins with a punch, <<<<NEW slide pins are available and often recommended BTW
>>>>
Pry wiggle and remove caliper, suspend it on a wire around spring or something to hold tension off rubber line
remove pads
clean the V notches where slide pins where located, on the axle and ON the caliper...good stiff wire brush
REMOVE dust cap from spindle,
remove cotter pin
UNDO, castle nut, HINT just turn it to flush with outter end of spindle
Grasp rotor on two sides like 3 and 9 oclock give a tug not too hard, pops outter bearing out..slide back in place
remove castle nut / washer / bearing
now carefully remove rotor,
Now you can thoroughly clean spindle and inspect for wear.
That is removal procedure, installation is reverse, add some brake lube on the V notches of the calipers and mount to allow calper so slide freely...
Bearing replacement is a standard procedure, repack etc...since you did not ask about bearings I'm not thinking you need to replace them
Also a NEW rotor seal is always a good idea when doing a brake job like this.
hint hint...Jack up ONE side
Remove tyre
tap out slide pins with a punch, <<<<NEW slide pins are available and often recommended BTW
>>>>
Pry wiggle and remove caliper, suspend it on a wire around spring or something to hold tension off rubber line
remove pads
clean the V notches where slide pins where located, on the axle and ON the caliper...good stiff wire brush
REMOVE dust cap from spindle,
remove cotter pin
UNDO, castle nut, HINT just turn it to flush with outter end of spindle
Grasp rotor on two sides like 3 and 9 oclock give a tug not too hard, pops outter bearing out..slide back in place
remove castle nut / washer / bearing
now carefully remove rotor,
Now you can thoroughly clean spindle and inspect for wear.
That is removal procedure, installation is reverse, add some brake lube on the V notches of the calipers and mount to allow calper so slide freely...
Bearing replacement is a standard procedure, repack etc...since you did not ask about bearings I'm not thinking you need to replace them
Also a NEW rotor seal is always a good idea when doing a brake job like this.
Waystro
No Class
FIRST I suggest do one side at a time...other side complete for reference to view
Jack up ONE side
Remove tyre
tap out slide pins with a punch, <<<<NEW slide pins are available and often recommended BTW
>>>>
Pry wiggle and remove caliper, suspend it on a wire around spring or something to hold tension off rubber line
remove pads
clean the V notches where slide pins where located, on the axle and ON the caliper...good stiff wire brush
REMOVE dust cap from spindle,
remove cotter pin
UNDO, castle nut, HINT just turn it to flush with outter end of spindle
Grasp rotor on two sides like 3 and 9 oclock give a tug not too hard, pops outter bearing out..slide back in place
remove castle nut / washer / bearing
now carefully remove rotor,
Now you can thoroughly clean spindle and inspect for wear.
That is removal procedure, installation is reverse, add some brake lube on the V notches of the calipers and mount to allow calper so slide freely...
Bearing replacement is a standard procedure, repack etc...since you did not ask about bearings I'm not thinking you need to replace them
Also a NEW rotor seal is always a good idea when doing a brake job like this.
Thanks I'm going to replace the calipers and brake pad bearings rotors and drivers side break lines. I've never done any of this so throw out suggestions. Also my calipers didn't have 2 slider pins just 1 and it looked nothing like the one that came with my new calipers. The stuff I pulled off was a flat metal tray looking thing and the pin was curved down on the edges
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
post some pics!
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
OK the other TYPE of pins, there will be a shouldered bolt retaining that setup in place IIRC
One tip since in for the penny go for the pound...replace the RUBBER LINES both sides...no sense what so ever having any potential issue with failure in future do to rot/wear etc.
As I said, do ONE side at a time, thoroughly wash out inside the hub of the NEW rotors, carefully feel for loose ****** berries as I call em...slag/casting flash...sand etc inside there...get that crap out thoroughly...
pound out one old inner and one old outter bearing race, they are a tool to pound in NEW ONES if they don't come with races installed....
More tips as my brain stops farting...
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Good comments as to replacing the bearings and rotors and brake calipers. Just ask questions before committing issues. Someone is always on this site offering help.
The Warden
MiB Impersonator
That's the early style...I think they switched to the rubber piece in '87. I actually prefer the early style; they're not wear items like the later style is, and I"m not sure why Ford made the change.
The "pin" is actually a spring, FYI
Matt_INW
Full Access Member
Hmmm, I replaced my rotors 1.5 weeks ago on mine. It had the hollow metal pin thing, no rubber. I wonder if the rubber "got lost" at some point in the past?
Waystro
No Class
Got rotors on both sides now i just have to put in the drivers side caliper and brake line than bleed the front brakes.
Oh and throw out suggestions on bleeding brakes
Oh and throw out suggestions on bleeding brakes
