How to prep replacement engine!?!?!?

Sealboy_04

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I bought a turbo idi replant engine off Craigslist about a yea ago to put in my 350 because she was diagnosed with a bad cylinder. Well long story short the bad cylinder was apparently a stuck ring that miraculously freed up and she's been running strong for the last year. Well ye ole symptoms are back so I have to seriously start on doing the original intended swap.

What I'm wandering is what should I do to make sure this engine, that has been sitting on my garage floor for almost a year, is ready to be fired up and used?
I figured popping the glow plug and spraying wd or something down them. Anything else I should do?
Thank you for any help you can provide
 

94f450sd

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Bolt it in and fire it up.while its out,its a good idea to reseal and regasket everything to ensure no leaks.
 

rlb245

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Ya can't go wrong with that advice. But one question. Did you see this motor run before you bought it?
 

freebird01

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after what i went through my advice would be to yank the heads and inspect... just in case for some reason you have rust thats not allowing a valve to seat properly
 

icanfixall

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This is a wide open question you ask. For me I would replace the gaskets that are the very difficult to replace when the engine is in the truck. The front and rear main seals. The oil pan which by fact does not use a cork or rubber gasket. Only a quality rtv was used by the factory and thats working very well for all of us. You need to have a clean surface for the rtv to hold. Brakeclean works great for this. Use more than usual on the corners where three gaskets come together. The oil cooler o-rings can be done when the engine is in the truck but its a tuff job for the first timers. When the engine is out its a simple remove the 8 bolts and install same after the gaskets are cleaned and done. The hardest valve cover to replace when the engine in the truck is the passenger side. Not much clearnce. Do at least that one.
 

riotwarrior

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OH I dunno pull heads, pan, oil cooler and maybe a new block heater too....reseal the entire engine with fresh gaskets, check the GPs out too and replace if needed. Also may want to consider throwing a set of injectors at it, and new olives and return lines.

That would be my take if you can do it.

May want to pull a main cap or two and rod cap or two and inspect bearings while at it too...

If you can afford it, new typ4 cam would be nice as well.

Studs???

SKY is limit based on how far you want to go.:eek:

JM2CW

Al
 

Sealboy_04

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i heard it run before i pulled it out with him. he also said he resealed the entire engine prior to putting it in himself. it was rebuilt 92k ago so im hoping it will be strong.
so any other things i should do before i swap it?
didnt know if there was a way to prime the oil pump or wd40 the cylinders. just want to cover my bases.
 

X-NRCan_IDI

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Personally I'd say if you'd ever consider putting a turbo on there in the future, studs would a very nice addition to put in while its out, and if you're changing HG's anyways...
 

icanfixall

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ARP is the ONLY company that makes a set for our 7.3 and 6.9 idi engines. They actually make two sets for the 7.3 engines. Russ whos signon name is typ4 can get you a set too. Cautionary note. Most prefer the 12 point nuts but the 6 point nuts hold just as well and they are much cheaper if you buy the bulk 7 inch long 1/2 inch studs. Call and ask them for the information on 7.3 idi 1/2x13 threads studs. If you buy the cheaper bulk 7 inch long studs your going to need 34 of them, $ 34 nuts and 34 washers. Don't try to cheapp out and buy home depot nuts and washers. They wont work no matter what grade you buy.
 

IDIBRONCO

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If the only problem with your current engine is a sticking ring, try putting a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with every oil change. This can help to free a sticking ring. If you just want a different engine, then by all means, go for it!
 
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