I have a 1992 f250.i need to know how to change the shoes.at the auto store they asked me what size shoe.i just got the bigger one cause i dont know what size shoes this takes.do i half to remove the hubs,thanks james
How to do back brakes??
- Thread starter jw674
- Start date
lpennock
Registered User
I'm assuming you are talking rear here since you said shoes. The drums just slide off the hubs and then it is just like doing a normal rear axle brake job. You don't need to remove the hubs.
alteredspeed
Registered User
brakes
I will say it is easier to do the rear shoes with the hubs off but it is not necessary. Just remember the short shoe goes in the front and the long shoe goes to the rear. They have a funky spring that holds them on and you can use vise grips on them if you don't have the tool. Also a straight blade screw driver with a slight 90 degree bent and a slot ground into the end so it will sit on the spring works too.
I will say it is easier to do the rear shoes with the hubs off but it is not necessary. Just remember the short shoe goes in the front and the long shoe goes to the rear. They have a funky spring that holds them on and you can use vise grips on them if you don't have the tool. Also a straight blade screw driver with a slight 90 degree bent and a slot ground into the end so it will sit on the spring works too.
Another word of wisdom.... ALWAYS DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. You may need the other side to look and see what hole things go in, what direction they point, etc. It also prevents you from swapping slack adjusters which can be a real problem.
JwS
Full Access Member
You might need to back the adjuster off, if the drums are worn there is a ridge there.
please clarify... does it move AT ALL? Like, can you see a seam where the drum and hub seperate? A torch may be required if it has not been off in forever and a day. If it is moving, but feels like there is a spring pulling it back, then yes the slack adjuster will require adjusting.
97idi
Full Access Member
the adjuster is the star wheel looking thing on the bottom back side of the brake assembly their will b a slot to get a brake tool in and u rotate it also make shure u dont have the parking brake on its a simple mistake but would keep it from moving
freebird01
Post Turtle!
and if you look on the face..most drums will have threaded holes that seamingly go nowhere...these are for you to screw bolts into them and use them as jacking screws to push the drum of...
not usually standard procedure but im my samurai i would run a couple of bolts down in the screw holes then wack it good with a BFH and let it bouce itself off.
not usually standard procedure but im my samurai i would run a couple of bolts down in the screw holes then wack it good with a BFH and let it bouce itself off.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
If the drum is seized to the hub I usually try this before I reach for the torch:
1) lift rear axle off the ground, support with good jack stands
2) pull both wheels off
3) reinstall four of the lugnuts per side but do not tighten them agains the drum, leave them somewhat loose
4) get in the truck, if it's a 4x4 truck make sure she's in 2wd mode, then fire her up and put her in gear, pick up some 30 mph speed (driveshaft is turning so the VSS thinks truck is moving even tho it ain't), then slam on the brakes hard.
5) when the drums let loose of the hubs you may hear a loud pop sound, but since we're talking about a diesel here it's probably a good idea to just check them visually, at least I do so.
6) if drums are still stuck put the truck in reverse and after picking up speed slam on the brakes again. Sometimes it helps to pull the RABS fuse so it don't mess with your line pressure. You may have to alternate forward-reverse a few times before they let loose, it all depends on how stuck they are.
7) when you finally get them things off, upon reinstall anti-seize the ever-living chit outta everything - hubs, drums, wheels, studs, everything. This is particularly annoying with a dually truck cause of the extra pair of wheels, but it pays off the first time you have to pull a wheel.
1) lift rear axle off the ground, support with good jack stands
2) pull both wheels off
3) reinstall four of the lugnuts per side but do not tighten them agains the drum, leave them somewhat loose
4) get in the truck, if it's a 4x4 truck make sure she's in 2wd mode, then fire her up and put her in gear, pick up some 30 mph speed (driveshaft is turning so the VSS thinks truck is moving even tho it ain't), then slam on the brakes hard.
5) when the drums let loose of the hubs you may hear a loud pop sound, but since we're talking about a diesel here it's probably a good idea to just check them visually, at least I do so.
6) if drums are still stuck put the truck in reverse and after picking up speed slam on the brakes again. Sometimes it helps to pull the RABS fuse so it don't mess with your line pressure. You may have to alternate forward-reverse a few times before they let loose, it all depends on how stuck they are.
7) when you finally get them things off, upon reinstall anti-seize the ever-living chit outta everything - hubs, drums, wheels, studs, everything. This is particularly annoying with a dually truck cause of the extra pair of wheels, but it pays off the first time you have to pull a wheel.
