How do you start your engine on WMO?

FarmerBoyFPV

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I bought a 86 f250 with a 7.3 idi and a 4 speed with an ats turbo that sat for 15 years. I bought it specifically for running wmo because I didn't want to hurt my other trucks.
I'm trying not to put alot of money in it until it pays for itself in fuel savings. I used one of thease clicker pumps on the drivers side until I replaced enough fuel lines to find where I was loseing prime. I then replaced the stock water separator with is cheap ebay priming filter head and it bolts right in to the stock water separator location. Looks factory and easy to prime the system when somethings not working.

I gave up on switching tanks and just filled both with straight wmo. Granted the diesel in the tank also sat for 15 years and smelled like deck stain.

I'm thinking of adding a 3rd diesel only tank with a fuel selector valve right after the filter head straight into the ip using the clicker pump so I can push a button and quickly flush the system with diesel on start and stop using very little diesel. Its kinda a long start on wmo cold and either fires it right up. But I hoping to achieve a easy start without lifting the hood and without using very much pump diesel.
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Jesus Freak

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There's no way the clicker is going to pump oil. I'd stick with the stock mechanical fuel pump, but if you want an electric fuel pump some guys say the Holley red or black will pump WMO. If the fuel cells have sat that long(and I know it sucks) pull the tanks clean them and comfort the lack of "shower heads" now. I just brought my 87 tow truck on line and I haven't even considered insuring it until I had gone over the WHOLE fuel system. The o rings on your injectors are going to leak too, go on and replace them before you make a "driver". Seriously, WMO isn't for the feint of heart do a little PM at the front and you will be happier as you confront this learning curve. Good luck! @kbenz and @AcIdBuRn02ZTS have a lot of good threads about WMO, check em out.
I bought a 86 f250 with a 7.3 idi and a 4 speed with an ats turbo that sat for 15 years. I bought it specifically for running wmo because I didn't want to hurt my other trucks.
I'm trying not to put alot of money in it until it pays for itself in fuel savings. I used one of thease clicker pumps on the drivers side until I replaced enough fuel lines to find where I was loseing prime. I then replaced the stock water separator with is cheap ebay priming filter head and it bolts right in to the stock water separator location. Looks factory and easy to prime the system when somethings not working.

I gave up on switching tanks and just filled both with straight wmo. Granted the diesel in the tank also sat for 15 years and smelled like deck stain.

I'm thinking of adding a 3rd diesel only tank with a fuel selector valve right after the filter head straight into the ip using the clicker pump so I can push a button and quickly flush the system with diesel on start and stop using very little diesel. Its kinda a long start on wmo cold and either fires it right up. But I hoping to achieve a easy start without lifting the hood and without using very much pump diesel.
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The primer is a great idea, I haven't seen one of those.
 
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FarmerBoyFPV

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The clicker has worked great, granted it hasn't got below 70 F yet but I'm also not cutting, straight wmo. The only issue was i just ran it to the batt and i forgot it on all night and had dead batteries in the morning.. Time will tell i guess, for anyone ordering the filter housing i should let you know it has 3/8 threads but they aren't taperd. It was a quit fix with a 3/8 npt tap or i assume one could use jic or an 8 o ring type fittings. I like the 3/8 thread chase about half the tap then both styles work.
I have some clean rust free tanks ready to go if I have issues, but I've ran a tank or two through so far. No ac, 4:10, and 4 speed and its not much of a freeway truck. I try and keep the boost under 4psi and it really won't go over 65 without passing 4psi. The guy replaced the caps before parking it, none have leaked yet. I deleted the filter return. I'll either replace the fuel pump or add a check valve before the pump as I still get some air in the filter overnight. I can either hit the primer and let some air out the filter or just hit the starter a bit longer and it fires.
When I get time I have an 89 parts truck with ac and a zf5 that needs overhauled. Both would be nice improvements.
 

Jesus Freak

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I use the two tank method. Our trucks have both so might as well put it to good use. I start stop on diesel and put it on WMO once engine is warmed up and before shut down. Keeps it clean.

Never-Have-I-Ether
Hey, on your 2 tank method, what do you do with your return lines? And what's the @NeverHave-I-Ether WMO fuel pump solution?
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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Hey, on your 2 tank method, what do you do with your return lines? And what's the @NeverHave-I-Ether WMO fuel pump solution?

I just use the two tanks the truck has. I deleted the front tank and plumbed it to an auxiliary tank in my bed. WMO stays in that tank. Back tank is clean diesel. I flip the switch and I'm good. Recently that stupid FSV has been problematic and throwing the fuse. Its hit or miss when I flip the switch.

I run a Holley Black fuel pump. It has been great, but.... It always loses prime. When I start the truck and it runs for about 10s you could hear the pump kick the fuel. If you don't start it though the pump doesn't push the fuel and my PSI gauge reads zero. Only after starting does the PSI gauge read anything.

Its probably air getting in or the fuel somehow returning to the tank. So check valve?

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

Jesus Freak

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I just use the two tanks the truck has. I deleted the front tank and plumbed it to an auxiliary tank in my bed. WMO stays in that tank. Back tank is clean diesel.

Its probably air getting in or the fuel somehow returning to the tank. So check valve?

Never-Have-I-Ether
So, you have a return line going to your "clean diesel" tank?

And yeah, I'd say a check valve would be good. The mechanical pump has a check valve.
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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So, you have a return line going to your "clean diesel" tank?

And yeah, I'd say a check valve would be good. The mechanical pump has a check valve.
I have return lines to both tanks. I tapped a hole and put a barb fitting on the auxiliary tank for the return line. Thread is on here somewhere about it.

Good point on the mechanical pump. I may do that. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps the AN fitting is leaking air. May go back and put Teflon tape on them to be safe. It's not a huge deal though, I drive 400 miles a week without issues.

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

Jesus Freak

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I have return lines to both tanks. I tapped a hole and put a barb fitting on the auxiliary tank for the return line. Thread is on here somewhere about it.

Good point on the mechanical pump. I may do that. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps the AN fitting is leaking air. May go back and put Teflon tape on them to be safe. It's not a huge deal though, I drive 400 miles a week without issues.

Never-Have-I-Ether
Cool, I've got brake parts coming tomorrow or Wednesday for the tow truck. When they get here, I'm going to take some pictures and start its thread and discribe my WMO system on there.

With your centerfuge, do you think the oil is "clean" enough to go back to the"clean diesel" tank without basically turning it into a 60/40 WMO tank?
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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With your centerfuge, do you think the oil is "clean" enough to go back to the"clean diesel" tank without basically turning it into a 60/40 WMO tank?

Well, the oil is still oil. It's never truly "diesel". So you would still get a 60/40 mix of diesel to oil if I understand you correctly. The oil is just cleaned very well with most of the sludge pulled out. It's still oil though.

Did I understand you correctly and answer your question?

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

Jesus Freak

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Did I understand you correctly and answer your question?

Never-Have-I-Ether
Nope, well kinda. Since your return lines go back to the "clean diesel" tank, you don't have a "clean diesel" tank you have a "dirty diesel" tank, which really doesn't matter it's just one of the things I'm trying to confront with my truck.

I know the centerfuge gets a lot of the junk out, but yeah, it's still oil. I see the benefits of the centerfuge, but settling and filtering is all my budget can handle right now.
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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Nope, well kinda. Since your return lines go back to the "clean diesel" tank, you don't have a "clean diesel" tank you have a "dirty diesel" tank, which really doesn't matter it's just one of the things I'm trying to confront with my truck.

I know the centerfuge gets a lot of the junk out, but yeah, it's still oil. I see the benefits of the centerfuge, but settling and filtering is all my budget can handle right now.
I have two return lines. So each system the return fuel goes to it's tank. Yes, some oil will mix with the diesel. It's not enough for me to worry about though.

Never-Have-I-Ether
 

Jesus Freak

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So my tow truck can fire with glow plugs! No ether on this guy. When I get to work on my dually I'm planning on making it a glow plug start as well.

The previous owner had the glow plug control set with a manual button, so I left it that way. I hold the button for 5or 6 seconds, spin the engine for 5or 6 seconds, do the GP again then the starter and as a rule she goes on the second try. We finally got our first bit of cooler weather in NW Florida ( upper 50s, lower 60s at night) so il be curious to see how it fires when we get to the 40s in a few months.
 

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