How about a 2 tank WMO setup

[m67tang]

Are you using a heated exchanger or heated filter or heat anything, besides the glow plugs?

Also is your used oil motor oil or ATF?

When I tried 70/30 without RUG I started having EGT's too high and power to low.
Now I have been running 10 gal WMO, 10 gal #2, with 2 gal of RUG added, and it runs real strong with good temps.

 

[Brad S.]

Are you using a heated exchanger or heated filter or heat anything, besides the glow plugs?

Also is your used oil motor oil or ATF?

When I tried 70/30 without RUG I started having EGT's too high and power to low.
Now I have been running 10 gal WMO, 10 gal #2, with 2 gal of RUG added, and it runs real strong with good temps.

Do you think it starts better with the RUG included???

 

[diezelcrazee]

You can run 80/20 all winter with a strong mechanical pump, good fuel system, and good glow plugs though.

I'm glad to know that. I guess I need to look at my gp system. The 94 starts immediately on D2, but the W85 is another story.

 

[wmoguy]

I'm glad to know that. I guess I need to look at my gp system. The 94 starts immediately on D2, but the W85 is another story.

On the coldest of Colorado mornings I might crank for 3-4 seconds on WMO. Diesel would be near instant start. There is a difference but not enough to bother me.

 

[wmoguy]

Are you using a heated exchanger or heated filter or heat anything, besides the glow plugs?

Also is your used oil motor oil or ATF?

When I tried 70/30 without RUG I started having EGT's too high and power to low.
Now I have been running 10 gal WMO, 10 gal #2, with 2 gal of RUG added, and it runs real strong with good temps.

I have a 100w inline heater pre fuel filter. Frankly I don't know if it does anything at all.
I do plug in when I'm at home during the winter if that's what you mean. When I'm not at home I don't worry about it.

I'm not N/A so my results of power and EGTs will be different than yours. I do run about 100-150 degrees hotter on WMO. Power wise I feel more go in the butt dynameter.

If yours runs too hot on WMO I'd look at your timing. And possibly back down your pump (timing first) if its hotter and lower on power you need more air somehow (or less fuel)
How's your IP and injectors?

 

[m67tang]

I have about 30k on my IP & injectors. Put new Beru glow plugs in Feb. 2012. Last time I checked the timing with a pulse meter I think it was 8.5, best I remember.
I have NO heated fuel at all! Factory POS heater- filter Bowl went bad so I changed out the filter to a different size w/o a heater element. I plan
to install a heat exchanger fuel filter, and an Electric Lift pump.

Right now truck seems happiest with 50/50 mix. Saving 50% is still quite an accomplishment!
Looks like if I want more I will just have to do more work on the truck.

 

[Brad S.]

On the coldest of Colorado mornings I might crank for 3-4 seconds on WMO. Diesel would be near instant start. There is a difference but not enough to bother me.

Before you put new (rebuilt) heads on was starting on wmo the same???
Just trying to narrow down some of my own problems.

 

[m67tang]

It does start up a lot better with the RUG added. less smoke starting & pulling loads too. I am told the supposed idea is RUG lowers the flash point of the WMO into a usable range to burn in an engine.

 

[Brad S.]

Here's a basic drawing of how my setup works.
Looking down
The wmo tank is actually behind the cab above the front tank.
(thank you PAINT program)

 

[wmoguy]

Before you put new (rebuilt) heads on was starting on wmo the same???
Just trying to narrow down some of my own problems.

Yes it was the same