Horton electro magnetic fan clutch???

[junk]

I've been looking at Horton electro mechanical fan clutches. These are the fan clutches that operate similar to an A/C compressor and use an electrical activated clutch to lock the fan up. It looks like a fan clutch for a International DT466 engine uses the same thread that our engines use (1.25-16 UNF 2B LH). The over all length of the clutch isn't that different from our fan clutch, but the fan mounting location is about 2" closer to the radiator. It also appears that the fan mounting holes are the same or very close if they aren't. So I think it's probably a bolt in, but I'm not sure about the 2" distance. I need to do some more looking if another fan may move the fans mounting plane. And at the clutch's prices I'm not ready to just buy one to play with. Or if the benefits would justify the hassle of installing it. It's probably 300 bucks or better to get a clutch if you can find a deal. Then you need to buy some temp switches and stuff to wire it up. It looks like when wired up factory they have a temp switch that activates them and a switch on the a/c system.

When idling with the a/c on we could have the fan locked up tight. Which would be nice so the a/c works better. And the big benefit would be the fact that the fan would be either unlocked or positively locked versus the vicious clutch that's always a mystery.

What do you guys think? The benefits worth the cost?

 

[2stroke]

How about you let us see the clutch or better yet a link to the supplier. That way we could input your question with our ideas. Or even play with one and let you know what we think.
Cost wise I would say OK---Benefiths are more tailored operation for the aplication and how you use the truck.

 

[mblaney]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Horton+electro+magnetic+fan+clutch

 

[junk]

http://www.hortonww.com/products/products.asp?/en/26/

 

[2stroke]

mblaney I think you have had way to much free time in life to figure out that link.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

The only question I have is how does this unit fail: locked up or free wheeling? If it locks up when it fails, you should go buy one and try it out for us

Seriously, the only problem I see is that if the clutch fails to open/spin freely, you could overheat if towing heavy. If it fails to lockup, they your mileage just goes down when it dies and you are spinning all the time similar to a drilled and pinned clutch fan.

I am sold on electric fans, but I think this is a great thread and an awesome idea for folks who tow heavy

Now I gotta ask: will this bolt on a Powerstroke

 

[mblaney]

Just a little humor... very little, I know.

 

[junk]

Won't bolt on a power stroke. Different thread on the water pump and different water pump rotation if I'm thinking right. Power stroke guys have been using the horton clutches from the international trucks using the powerstroke engines.

I'm assuming the clutch fails in an unlocked position. I have little concern about it failing. It's for the big truck market and those guys do more miles than I'll ever see.

It's an interesting concept to me. I've got it on my list to do. Someday when I have time and money to dedicate to this I'll probably get it figured out.

 

[JSVD]

I think one of the easiest ways to change your fan clutch is to change to the IH waterpump. There's a simple round flange with 4 bolt holes on the front of this pump which the pulley, fan, and clutch all bolt into.
I've done a lot of custom alternator setups... and every time it's been a giant pain to get everything lined up properly.

 

[jaluhn83]

Looked into it a bit, there is one that matches the stock idi water pump thread, but it would put the fan too close to the radiator. I had located a horton fan that looked like it would fit though. Can't remember numbers off hand though.

I think OEM is something like $800 for the clutch though. I seem to recall finding a clutch for something like $400 somewhere, and the fan looked like another $100 or so.

Not sure if you'd really want to lock it up for ac though - that thing is going to roar like a sob even at idle.

I've actually decided that I'd rather keep the viscous clutch now that I fixed mine. Not sure where it came from, but I have one that works very well and seems to lock up by about 210*. It seems to engage proportionally the way it's suppossed to and even pulling 20,000+ gross up 4-6% grades in 70-80* temps it stays under 225* and cools off real quick once you back out.

I think the best bet for AC performance is a medium size electric fan stuck on the front of the condensor - easy to control and not as loud as the main fan but gets enough airflow to hopefully handle the ac.

 

[Wyreth]

Viscus clutches work pretty well, better than e-fans certainly, but they never actually lock. So you will never see full engine RPMs on the fan. The number I am remembering from my musclecar days was the fan moves at something like 70% of engine rpms. So having a true locking fan would suck a little more fuel, but would also give you the ability to dump ALOT more heat. Also, if you do get too hot, and have to pull off to cool. The fan is still fully locked at idle, and will let you cool down faster.

As for the AC lockout, if you live in vegas in the summer... You will NOT care about the fan roaring at idle, you WILL care that your duct temps are still icy when it's 120* outside and you've been sitting at the light for 5 min.

As for cost vs reward. I dunno, I have a good aluminum radiator and when I pulled Tahachapi and burned up my trans (actual flames), I never saw water temps north of 205. That was with the stock fan. Granted it was all of 70* outside, but I was still running approximately 19k gross. I just don't know that I have need for more cooling capacity at any price, let alone over $400.

 

[jaluhn83]

I'm with you on the never locking up, but on the other hand, that's undoubtedly part of the fan design criteria so it's speced to move sufficient air for cooling even partially locked up all other things being right.

One thing that I was unsure about is that you'd have fully locked or free - nothing in between, so there'd probably be a lot of cycling under certain conditions.

I think you need more trans cooling capacity - if water temps stayed that low you're main cooling system is fine, what's hurting you is not being able to dump enough heat from the trans into the coolant.

 

[Wyreth]

I think you need more trans cooling capacity - if water temps stayed that low you're main cooling system is fine, what's hurting you is not being able to dump enough heat from the trans into the coolant.

Very true, however I already fixed that. Had a couple problems with the trans cooling. First the stock cooling circuit simply cannot deal with that kind of a load. Second, the PO thoughtfully bypassed the second element because it was leaking.

Should never have been pulling that kind of load without a trans temp gauge.... well really I should not have been pulling that heavy a load to begin with, especially up a grade like that without a turbo. =P

 

[jaluhn83]

19K up Tehachapi with a non turbo? Probably did what, 15 mph? I've done that once with about that weight and my old NA undergeared black truck after blowing the heads on the tan truck with a turbo - had to go retrieve my trailer. Was also a bit scary because that truck was a stick with a weak clutch, ZF5 and a 3.31 rear, so it was iffy starting anything too heavy on a hill. I pretty much just stuck it in first, put a brick on the petal and let it run on the goverenor the whole way up.... at about 10 mph. Made it eventually, but not something I'd do over again....

Now with the HX35 I'm running similar hills at the same weight at 40+ mph..... amazing what a good turbo will do to these motors!