Here it goes? over heating?

[Joe Mc]

the cap is not on tight due to pressure in the coolant? but it has been ok with it until today....

Are you getting a lot of pressure in the coolant?

That would be head gaskets if your lucky, or cavitation if your not.

 

[cscmc1]

Gents (and ladies, if you're present) -- Tonight I'm going to look at the 6.9 I mentioned earlier in this thread. It's short notice, and yes, I have read the "what to look for" thread in the forums, but can ya'll recommend anything in particular to make note of offhand? Owner is asking $500, and says the truck overheats. I'm thinking worst case = cracked block, bad case = heads, better = head gaskets, best = t-stat. If I can snag it for $350 or so and the body isn't totally rotted, I might just buy it to learn on. This'll be my first "big" diesel (I have a VW TDI now).

Thanks all!

 

[h2odrx]

yes it was pressure in the coolant and with two broken head bolts i hope the shop will tell me the heads are ok? anyway he will give them a once over to see i should know something next week sometime? he stays real busy!!
as for the $500 truck if all elese looks good and any new parts i'd buy it!

 

[cscmc1]

Thanks, h2odrx... I'll keep you all posted! Oh, and good luck with your repairs!

 

[cscmc1]

Well, went to have a look, and the truck is definitely a "project," but the price might be right. Seller seems ready to accept an offer, and even offered to deliver it the ~75 miles back to my house. It starts right up and sounds fine, but we didn't run it long as there's NO coolant left due to the block heater having been blown out. I looked under as best I could and didn't see any obvious cracks in the block near the heater, but who knows? Seller says he thought there was some oil in the coolant at one time.

Sounds like a project and a half, huh?

 

[Joe Mc]

The stock block heaters have a T-bar that holds them in, the t-bars often corrode and break. A broken t-bar would cause the block heater to drop out losing the coolant and causing the overheating. Making the block heater the cause and not a symptom.

 

[riphip]

If it is the block heater that is the problem (would explain no coolant in block, no coolant in oil), you could install either a new block heater ($40) or if the engine is coming out, a freeze plug ($2 at most).

 

[cscmc1]

Thanks for the info, gentlemen! I am waiting to hear back from the seller... if no one else has made an offer, he says, he'll deliver it this Saturday. If that's the case maybe I'll make an offer and hope that plugging the block heater hole might be a good start at repairing this beast.

riphip -- you mention a freeze plug as a solution "if the engine is coming out." Can I pull the starter and pop a freeze plug in w/o pulling the engine?

Thanks again!

 

[riphip]

Sure, you can do that. Seal around the freeze plug and emery cloth the hole.
You should have enough room. Fill with water first to make sure it doesn't leak. Loosen the block drain plugs so you can remove all the water or use the antifreeze that mixes with plain water(after you're sure it won't leak).

 

[cscmc1]

Thanks; it's all academic 'til the seller calls me, but hopefully I'll be fiddling with a new project this weekend!

 

[Joe Mc]

If you are just looking to plug the hole while you test the engine and think that you might want to install a block heater if the heater was the problem, you could install a rubber freeze plug for the test.

 

[cscmc1]

If you are just looking to plug the hole while you test the engine and think that you might want to install a block heater if the heater was the problem, you could install a rubber freeze plug for the test.

Good call. That's kind of what I was thinking. Honestly, I have NEVER had to fiddle with freeze plugs, so I don't even know what there is to installing them, but yeah... I'll probably go the rubber-plug route for this precise reason. Thanks!

 

[h2odrx]

how does the rubber plug work? is it anthing like the block heater? and where can i get one?

 

[Joe Mc]

Any parts store should have it, they slide in and are tighted by a nut in the center. The general opion on another site I am on and probably this one is that the rubber plugs are best used as a temporary fix only. If you live where it is cold I suggest installing the block heater. I think that the freeze-plugs came into this because it is a cheap way to diagnose the engine, if the problem is a cracked block or cavitation you may not want to have spent $40 to $80 for a block heater that you don't need.

Riphip seems to have some good parts connections, when I replaced my block heater I think it was around $70(for the all metal ford one), and usually parts cost me more when I am in Memphis, than here.

 

[h2odrx]

update

JUST A LITTLE UP DATE....called the shop today to find out about the heads, dropped them off friday a week ago, (11 days) this guy is good and always busy! said he would be tearing into them maybe next day or two? engine is clean and ready to go have removed almost everthing from compartment will have to clean some more and hose it all off and blow dry it. starting to get in the 80's here so should be nice weekend to start putting it back together? :Sly

ps getting tired of ridding my bike to work? (not a HARLEY) -