Here it goes? over heating?

[h2odrx]

my truck has been running fine? it is new to me so i have to learn the ways of the diesel. in the past it has been getting hot, i've made sure to check the water and oil, if not daily every other stop? have had to add water alot, the cap is not on tight due to pressure in the coolant? but it has been ok with it until today....
went to hardware to get supplies and on the way back it started smoking something bad, got about 1 mile from the house and the temp went HOT so i found a stopping point and checked the rad. smoke coming from everywhere! out the dip stick tube, out the rad, off the heads, out the bed, and under the truck!!!

added some water and it looked like a steam engine venting? i guess it was hot? after 15-20 mins and four gals of water the smoke had cleared and i made it the 1/4 mile home.

so where do i start? sorry so long!
thanks dwight

 

[OkieGringo]

Ya START by finding another engine . Don't worry, that's just "RichardCranium" talking . But it does sound, to me, like at least head gaskets. So, get it in a garage and pull the hood off so ya got room to work. I feel your pain and the pain coming to your wallet. Sorry. OkieGringo

 

[h2odrx]

i have found an 87 F350 crew that the owner said will not go in gear? Only 105k on it i could just swap tran’s? I don't think management will let me spend money on it though?

 

[OkieGringo]

i have found an 87 F350 crew that the owner said will not go in gear? Only 105k on it i could just swap tran’s? I don't think management will let me spend money on it though?

Yeah, I've got one of theose "Management Specialists " here also. Over the years I've learned that what she don't know won't hurt me , but I guess a new truck in the driveway would give you away. OG

 

[sle2115]

Whew, doesn't sound good.

If I could make one suggestion, I would not pour water in an engine that hot. The rapid cooling can and will cause cracking. Often it is better just to let it cool rather than to "quick" cool it as you can do more harm than good.

 

[h2odrx]

i had thought of that while i was pouring, but i had to get home so i could get to work. the guy i got the rad from has a 6.9 and 7.3 he wants to sell. he wants 1500 for the 7.3? i'll have to call him. i'd still like to have that crew cab! i bet i would get hurt real bad with another truck in the drive?

 

[OkieGringo]

i'd still like to have that crew cab! i bet i would get hurt real bad with another truck in the drive?

When "Management" is standing there with her hands on her hips, you know it's time to "Get outta Dodge" , the jig is up . OG

 

[h2odrx]

When "Management" is standing there with her hands on her hips, you know it's time to "Get outta Dodge" , the jig is up . OG

Would a water pump that is not working cause over heating?

 

[OkieGringo]

Would a water pump that is not working cause over heating?

Duh, not on Pluto, but here here on Earth it certainly would . OkieGringo

 

[h2odrx]

well being my first diesel i'm learning? what would a bad pump act like?

 

[Exekiel69]

Would a water pump that is not working cause over heating?

Finding a over heating problem may not be ease some times. You want to start with the obvious, radiator (is it clean? old?), tstat (may be stuck). I don't think is the water pump unless you can see coolant (water) coming out of it. Do you ever check the dca for cavitation? You may want to do a search on the archives for that matter. Where was the coolant coming from? was it coming out of the heads you said? did you check the hoses?

 

[DeepRoots]

When "Management" is standing there with her hands on her hips, you know it's time to "Get outta Dodge" , the jig is up . OG

better to get outta dodge than to get inna dodge.

-Chapter 15, paragraph 5, book of DeepRoots-

 

[h2odrx]

Finding a over heating problem may not be ease some times. You want to start with the obvious, radiator (is it clean? old?), tstat (may be stuck). I don't think is the water pump unless you can see coolant (water) coming out of it. Do you ever check the dca for cavitation? You may want to do a search on the archives for that matter. Where was the coolant coming from? was it coming out of the heads you said? did you check the hoses?

Rad is reconditioned out of an 86,(alot better than the one that was in it) tstat is new, right after i got it i changed it. Cavitation ??? On a 6.9??? the only smoke i get is at start up turns over real easy and fires up! no water in the oil or oil in the water? when it happened there must of been no water in it? hoses are new. would the weep hole in the pump be the place to look? or take the hose off the heater and see if water comes out?
thanks

 

[OkieGringo]

Newbie diesel owners often try to replace the thermostat with a gasser type. WRONG THING TO DO!!!! Use ONLY one of the following...
Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807945-C1 thermostat
Also thermostat number 1807974c94 is the current updated part #.

CAUTION:

The specified thermostat does not contain an internal bypass,
since the bypass is located in the cylinder block.
Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only
Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807945-C1 thermostat
be installed. F*rd comes with gasket for $20.

CAUTION:

Do not attempt to repair the thermostat.
It should be replaced if it is not operating properly.
Check the new thermostat before installing it for
correct opening temperature. Before suspending in
boiling water, with a flashlight check where the
rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal.
Tstat starts opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f.

The check ball allows air to escape from the block while holding back A/F flow until the tstat opens.

The little steel ball in the upper thermostat housing. Clean out the cavity that the ball sits in. There is a cork o-ring or rubber o-ring, on the surface that mates with the block, that holds the ball in there. Be very careful not to damage it. There should be an opening into the upper neck area. As I understand it, the normal pressure of coolant flow will push the steel ball up to block off the opening into the upper neck, but if the engine is off the ball will drop but still allow any trapped air to escape thru the upper neck area.
The cavity where the ball is was VERY corroded on mine, but I lived in Baja at the time. So I used Dremel to clean up the cavity and find the ball. And used JB Weld to reform the opening to the upper neck. After cleaning, the opening was big enough to allow the ball to escape, thus the need for the JB. If the steel ball is missing, You can order the whole upper housing at A/P store for around $45.00 or try to find a STAINLESS STEEL 1/4" ball on the internet. If the passage is blocked it will not allow trapped air to escape and "hot spots" will develop in the block and can cause overheating. OkieGringo

 

[h2odrx]

did all that got the part number from here somewhere and bought it at dealer $28. even cleaned out the bypass hole it was full of gunk, i'm a newbie, but i read and learn real quick, i like to do things right and not twice!