help tried to start it to smoke by turbo

[Black dawg]

Im sure the Pistons and rods were in pieces. And could an accidental fill up of gasoline be a plausible cause?

I have seen years worth of ether abuse (and people not knowing how to use safely) and idis that were run on gasoline that were seemingly unaffected....never anything like this guy is claiming, and on one bank?
My comment about block and head damage was that the prechamber is trapped between the head and block, and that something else would have to leave first for the pre chamber to even fall out.

 

[Koch13351]

And the indentations on the block in the video wouldn't be enough to allow them to come out?

 

[Black dawg]

no

 

[Koch13351]

Ok. Makes you wonder what REALLY happened....

 

[Hydro-idi]

Ok. Makes you wonder what REALLY happened....

We will probably never know unfortunately. Only the fellow who made that video should know, but listening to his theories on what happened....he shouldn't even have a drivers license.

 

[crash-harris]

I noticed that the head gasket was still on that side, but not the other side that didn't look like it had any indentations on it. Looks to me like the crushed the head gasket and that's it.

 

[typ4]

That engine ran many miles with loose precups, that is what killed it. Guys a moron.

 

[bowhunter13]

No no smoke at all when starting it.
Only smoke I have when running is from the crank vent. Whitish and has odd oder. Not bad but not good.

 

[bowhunter13]

is there a partnumber for this Kit? i sent Typ4 a look at alternatives as i havent heard back yet.

is this a fairly easy kit to install?

Yes. Crank the engine over a few times then jump out and press the valve on the filter head. If you don't get fuel, you've got air in the system which is why its a PITA to start.

By fix the returns... I mean send a message to Typ4 on here and order a return kit from him. That kit comes with all of the plastic caps and o-rings on top of the injectors, and the hard line olive seals on the filter head, injection pump feed, etc.

I would pick up some 1/4" tygon hose to run between the return caps. That way you can see if/where air is coming from.

There is a rubber line that goes from the hard line on the frame rail to the lift pump. Replace that as well.

Purge the air from the system and see what happens then. You can press the valve on the filter head while the engine is running and it should flow fuel from it. If its burping air, Let it run for a bit and check it again.

The return caps, o rings, and lines are the most common source of air leaks.

-EDIT-
Also... which i completely missed saying... If its cool out and the engine hasn't been ran, without glow plugs, it most likely wont fire off without starting fluid. If it starts and runs smooth on starting fluid, and starts fine when the engine is warm, fix the glow plug system.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

You can get return line kits about anywhere... Typ4's kit is just a nice one. You can get them from a parts store, R&D, etc..etc..etc..

Pretty easy to install.. just be sure to grease the o-rings/caps to prevent damage when you snap them in place. When you install the new caps, they will "pop" into place. If you don't feel them pop, they're not fully seated.

 

[bowhunter13]

GOOD NEWS,, pulled the intake and traced the wires by the glow plug scensor and found a blueish wire (1 wire disconneted from the other) not sure where they go but i hit the starter and on the 3rd try it fired off.
now i have a raditor leak.