HELP! Clutch master cylinder

[bj58]

Last night after two blowouts on the 5th wheel and only 5 miles left to the campground the flange on my master cylinder broke. I was able to get into 3rd and baby it to the campground

So my question is I've found a replacement MC but I'm not sure how to bleed the line after I replace it.

Thanks guys

 

[smolkin]

Someone just posted this thread the other day. I don't personally have experience with these as all my trucks have only had 2 pedals.

 

[oleblue85]

I recently did mine. I connected the new one and let it hang under the truck unhooked from the trans. Filled the master cylinder and crawled under the truck with my wife in the cab. I tilted the slave with the bleed screw part upward and as she would push on the clutch I would open the bleeder. she would yell when the clutch hit the floor and i would tighten the bleeder as she released the pedal. repeat this a few times and make sure the mc is always full! after 10 clutch pumps there appeared to be no air. Hook up the slave to the trans with the lid off the master to ease in compressing it. Seemed to work the best with the least effort. Hope this helps.

 

[bj58]

Guys thanks for the help
I got it back together it was a beast. One of the studs broke off and we had to drill it out.
The slave cylinder does not have a bleed valve.

 

[Agnem]

Last night after two blowouts on the 5th wheel and only 5 miles left to the campground the flange on my master cylinder broke. I was able to get into 3rd and baby it to the campground

...

Your not supposed to be stealing pages from my playbook!

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I thought I was the only one with that kind of luck!





Since you are just replaceing the master cylinder, you will have no problems provided that you do not let the fluid drain out of your clutch line. The line and slave will stay full provided that you keep it upright. Attach the new master, and then fill it up. Slightly compress the slave cylinder with your hand and that will force any air right out. A better question to be asking right now is why did your master break? Do you have high pedal effort? Have you been ignoring the maintanance task of lubricating the TOB and the transmission input sleeve?

 

[bj58]

Yes Mel it takes some effort to push the clutch in.
And I would guess the previous owners were ignoring the maintenance.
I will do a search on lubricating the TOB and the transmission input sleeve.
This is the 1st I've head of this.
I all most replaced the slave cylinder also just because of how much force it takes to press the clutch in.

Your pic’s are dead links for me. Not sure if it’s on my end, just and FYI

Yea the wife was amazed that I could swap out a tire in walmart parking lot at 10pm at night with just a hand tools and some soap.
Got some nice brownie points for that one.

 

[pac11]

Isn't about now that people start blaming retreads for all this rubber on the hwy, killing people and all that?

 

[bj58]

So I got home and took my dust cover off and removed my clutch fork.
here are a few pic's of what it looks like. It looks to me like this is not what I wanted to see.
options? Best it's pull the Trans and clean and lubricate. at worst pull Trans and replace a few parts.
What do you guys think.

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[chris142]

I greased mine right in the truck. I pulled the fork out, slid the to bearing back, reached up there and sloped some grease on the shaft them put a blob on the fork where the pivot goes. Made a huge difference.

 

[flareside_thun]

I greased mine right in the truck. I pulled the fork out, slid the to bearing back, reached up there and sloped some grease on the shaft them put a blob on the fork where the pivot goes. Made a huge difference.

I did that and I did the tangs on the end of the fork where it contacts the TOB. Much better/smoother.

 

[bj58]

So it does not look to far gone?
The TOB is not whinning or making any noise
Would it hurt to take some break cleaner and soak it down then grease it?

 

[RLDSL]

Hint here folks, use a VERY high end synthetic grease like Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease or something along those lines when you put it together, and you wont have to keep digging in there to fool with it all the time. Now, maybe y'all just enjoy fishing around in your bellhousing every once in a while, and if thats the case, more power to ya, but personally, I like to grease them up once when I put them together and not have to worry about it again until the clutch goes out again next time.

When blind greasing one handed in a tight bellhousing hole, its just too darn easy for grease to get away from you , and wind up where it shouldn't without you even knowing , and THEN you have real problems

 

[Agnem]

It's been my observation that over time, whatever grease you put in there will get dirty and thicken it up. Consequently, I'm a believer in periodic servicing. Yes, I do like to fool around in my bell housing. Pulling the fork, wiping out the dirt, doing a visual inspection, etc, gets you ahead of maintainance issues. Much like using an extended life coolant that would prevent you from every needing to pull your radiator cap (and forgetting to check your hoses, belts, etc.) a little extra maintanance goes a long way to helping you find other things that need help, like perhaps giving you a reason to note that one of your trans to bell housing bolts is gone (as was the case recently on the Iron Moose). To each his own.

 

[Greg5OH]

when my old slave cylinder slipped off its housing due to a weak clamp spinrg, i put a new one on. pedal effort was reduced id say 25% (and the clamp spring is strong as a ****, but im still screwing it to the bellhousing..)

best way i found to bleed the clutch (i dindt even use the bleeder valve on the new one), unhook your brake pedal from the pushrod, make sure master is topped off, install ur slave the way its supposed to be, and push it in manually all the wya a few times. do that 3-5 times, rehook ur brake pedal up, should have full pressure. then a few more pumps to get rest of air out, top up, drive aorund, check fluid. good to go.

 

[bj58]

So I decided to take the Transmission off to see how things looked, and it’s a good thing I did.
It was not as bad as I thought, that is taking the Transmission off.
So the bearing that the fork rides on is trashed. Is that the TOB? When I took it off and spun it there was a lot of play and grit to it. It has around 3/16 of up and down play maybe more.
Is there anything else I need to do while I have the Transmission off?
Is there a way to check the clutch to see how much life it has?