Hello

[CJCJ]

New to the forum and diesels for that matter. Needed a truck for the camper/boat combo and hauling in general. I settled on an older 1990 F250 7.3L with 90,000 and older wastegated banks turbo.

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Picked it up for 5200 with an old camper that we got 500 trade for on the newer '05 Lance 910.

Unfortunately the tranny needed to be rebuilt to the tune of 3200 dollars. The person I bought it from comp'd me 500 dollars toward the new tranny.

So after tightening up the valve covers and various other bolts I managed to get most of the leaks squared away. There still seems to be some oil leaking down onto the starter but it is ever so slight. Problem is I can't determine where it's coming from. Dipstick mounting area maybe? But that's the least of my worries, I think. The coolant showed being in need of a pint of sca's so I recharged it to normal levels.(complete recharge this fall) Changed the oil and added a powerstroke filter. Cleaned the airfilter and checked the fipl range.

I have an injector return line kit coming to hopefully take care of the stall after starting that recently developed. I have replaced the rubber washers from the fuel pump to the filter header, filter and o-ring but my concern is the schrader valve. Is it for testing purposes only and could it be leaking? I figured I would wait to remove the hardline from the filter out to the ip to put the new orings in when I do the injector pump. The to do list is long.

Would this be the proper port on the drivers side of the tranny to put a trans temp sensor in?

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And is this the best place to T a mechanical oil sender?

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Anyhow, I spose it was a decent purchase. A bit more than I was looking to spend but hey, no payment. And I'll have a new truck when I'm done.

 

[Agnem]

Can't comment on the trans port, but as for the other things.... oil leak on the starter. Possible sources are the rear crank seal, or headgasket. Could also be something up top leaking into the valley pan drain which will deposit stuff down there. Your best bet would be to get it all as clean and oil free as possible and start looking again. Oil presure can be sensed at 3 points. The one you showed, which is probably going to your turbo and not the best place for it. The second is on the same side of the engine, in about the same horizontal plane, but on the block ahead of the oil filter. (see my FS-2500 install in the Moose Truck album link below). The 3rd and most common spot is on top of the engine block in the back to the right of center, where the factory sender is connected. Welcome to the brotherhood!

 

[icanfixall]

Nice looking truck and welcome to the fold. Yes, thats the location for the trans temp sender. The oil port will work. I had my first Banks Sidewinder and thats where I took my pressure port from. I even used the top of the turbo for a location without any pressure drop problem. On that side of the motor you will find several oil port locations and one coolant block drain. These motor could supply enough oil for a compressor on the bigger trucks these motors were found in.

 

[towcat]

I'm suspecting the oil drainback tube from the turbo. It's the highest point of the motor for a leak source and the valley drain hole favors the starter side. Irregardless, start from the top and work your way down.
btw...welcome

 

[CJCJ]

Thanks for the feedback and welcome.
I do have fuel in valley pan so maybe that is what I'm seeing on the starter and driver side turbo oil line. It looks like the ip is leaking but I have yet to confirm this. I need to pick up a mirror as nothing under the pump feels wet.
Im almost positive she's in need of a new ip and injectors soon. I was hoping to do it this fall.

I took it back to the tranny shop due to the pan leaking slightly and they say it has a bad right motor mount. sooo......it looks like I will be doing that this weekend also. Is this an easy fix?

 

[towcat]

Thanks for the feedback and welcome.
I do have fuel in valley pan so maybe that is what I'm seeing on the starter and driver side turbo oil line. It looks like the ip is leaking but I have yet to confirm this. I need to pick up a mirror as nothing under the pump feels wet.
Im almost positive she's in need of a new ip and injectors soon. I was hoping to do it this fall.

I took it back to the tranny shop due to the pan leaking slightly and they say it has a bad right motor mount. sooo......it looks like I will be doing that this weekend also. Is this an easy fix?

do both sides while you're there. easy job. maybe two hours if a 12 pack is involved. you don't remove the bracket coming down from the motor and the frame nuts are easy to get to. do a search for "valleypan drain" and you'll find zig's pics on the drainback holes

 

[icanfixall]

The motor mounts are an easy job. Like Towcat posts, don't remove the brackets on the motor. Just take the nuts off and jack up the motor but be careful of the height you can go up. The turbo and fan will limit you some but it will be high enough. Also place a 2x6 or 2x8 on the pan to jack against but make sure you don't use the drain plug as a place to jack from. It will dent the pan and you only have about 3/8th inch before you push the pan up against the oil pickup screen. Then you are in the deep muddy. Pan will need to come off or guess what happens... P.S. You have a left and right motor mount rubber pad. They will have a big "L" of "R" stamped on them and yes there is a correct way they fit. Watch closely when you pull one out. It will have the L of R at the top or bottom. I can't remember how mine came out 6 months ago. I'm getting older....

 

[CJCJ]

Great info. I should do them 1 at a time then?

Thanks!

 

[SKimballC]

Nice rig and a big welcome. I had an oil leak on my starter when I bought my truck. Turned out that half the oil pan bolts needed snugging up.

 

[kcw12]

Oil leaks give me a reason to check my oil.

 

[zigg]

Hey Welcome

Yup, if your valley pan's wet, that's where it will drain to for sure(over the starter). It can be coming from a bunch of places. Injectors, return cap T's, the o-ring around where the inj.pump mounts into the tower, the pump itself, some of the lines, and even dripping/running down the fuel supply line from the filter...

Wipe it dry, have a look around etc.

There is also some of the turbo's that have the oil drain back into the valley grommet where the N/A engines have their CDR, and back of the intake manifold gets blocked off. If there is oil in the blowby being fed to the turbo, it can drip from this location too, or the grommet where the oil drainback is.

I actually had one leak that was oil seeping through a poor seal at the back of the valley pan when it was put on. It leaked down the back of the engine, and required replacement of the pan to fix!!

Zigg

 

[CJCJ]

So I removed the 4 nuts (2 per side) and jack under oil pan behind drain plug. The motor will not raise. Ford shop manual spells it out exactly as you guys did. I must be missing something. There appears to be clearance where needed.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

So I removed the 4 nuts (2 per side) and jack under oil pan behind drain plug. The motor will not raise. Ford shop manual spells it out exactly as you guys did. I must be missing something. There appears to be clearance where needed.

The addition of the turbo greatly reduces the amount of travel required to "lift" the motor up to gain enough clearance to swap out the mounts.
Turbo pedestal, up and down pipes are the resisting factors.