Heater core replacement & vacuum lines

[IDIoit]

good morning/afternoon.
i am about to swap out my old heater core for a new one.
i have a couple of questions before i begin.

1) whats the easiest way to go about replacing this?
are they all torx heads?

2) every time ive replaced a heater core in other projects, ive added a ground strap to the core itself.
does this really help with electrolysis?

3) i have 2 vacuum lines extruding from the wiring harness, and a diaphram on the blower box.
do all 3 of these need vacuum from the pump? im assuming they are for the heater controls.

application- 87 F350 w/ AC
thanks guys!

 

[riotwarrior]

Open glove box door, remove glove box door, remove cover, remove heater core, of course you disconnected the heater lines prior to this install new heater core install cover install glove box door...

Electrolosis is from minerals in water..by using distilled/deionized/demineralized water you won't have an issue with electrolosis to the extent that tap water would cause.

JM2CW

 

[theguruat12]

I've been following a build thread over on FTE for a long time now, this guy has really done his research, and he states that he found a Ford TSB stating NOT to ground the core.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1157346-big-blackie-the-build-3.html#post11752797

Personally, I've always questioned the need to, because as Al said, good coolant should not have a large electrolyte concentration, therefore it should not conduct enough to cause galvanic corrosion to the degree where it will harm a heater core or radiator.

 

[TahoeTom]

theguruat12 thanks for the link, lots of good info there.

 

[IDIoit]

good to know! thanks guys!
what about the 2 vacuum lines, and the canister on the blower motor box?
this computer wont let me open the link, ill read it tomorrow at work.