Headlight hazing...

[Mikes91]

I got a kit with some stuff in it for removing that yellow glaze that forms on the headlight lense covers of our trucks.

Basically, it works by sanding the outside surface of the plastic lens cover down beyond the damaged surface. Optical clarity is restored by sanding with finer and finer materials (sanding sponges as well as a couple of compounds for the final stages) until a clear appearance is returned.

VERY favorable results so far on the passenger's side lens--looks new (though I haven't finished the last 2 stages of fine sanding/restoring perfect clarity)--but I still have a bit of an opaque white haze on the driver's side lens. It shouldn't be on the outside--I've sanded that out pretty hard and can't imagine that hazed plastic would still be there.

Is it possible for these headlights to haze on the inside of the lens? Is there any way to pop off the lens covers without breaking anything?

It'll be nice to be able to see the road when this is done. Already there's a huge improvement--MUCH brighter lights than before (although the new headlight switch has a little bit to do with that). Best $30 I've spent in awhile.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I have had good results also with the 3M products for auto body work. The medium and fine compounds are what I have used. Just used a cloth to apply it and just kept rubbing till dry and the compound was gone. I then switched tot he fine cut and did the same. Followed by my favorite polish.
Works like a charm.
The headlight assembly is a sealed assembly.
I do believe that the hazing is caused by the weather elements and does not affect the inside of the lens.

 

[HammerDown]

The headlight assembly is a sealed assembly.
.

Well my drivers side ain't...not only is that sucker hazed but at times I see moisture droplets on the inside. I tried to polish it a few times...it's shot.

 

[Mikes91]

I have had good results also with the 3M products for auto body work. The medium and fine compounds are what I have used. Just used a cloth to apply it and just kept rubbing till dry and the compound was gone. I then switched tot he fine cut and did the same. Followed by my favorite polish.
Works like a charm.
The headlight assembly is a sealed assembly.
I do believe that the hazing is caused by the weather elements and does not affect the inside of the lens.

Sounds good. I've seen moisture in the inside, as Hamerdown alludes to in his note following yours. I'll keep polishing the driver's side and see if a little more elbow grease takes care of it. Really pleased with the results for the passenger's side lens cover. The truck no longer looks like it has cataracts.


Mike

 

[yARIC008]

Yeah, my old ones were hazed on the inside. No buffing would do anything. Just bought some new ones on ebay.

I believe the UV from the bulbs is what hazes it on the inside.

 

[Mikes91]

Yeah, my old ones were hazed on the inside. No buffing would do anything. Just bought some new ones on ebay.

I believe the UV from the bulbs is what hazes it on the inside.

These bulbs emit UV? Perhaps it is just UV rays from the sun penetrating into the plastic...? Not sure I'm going to be able to buff these out. I'll have to search the junkyards in California for a replacement st of lens covers--there's SO MANY old trucks like mine with PERFECT lens covers. Amazing.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

They can be 'resealed' It's jsut a matter of carefully removing the lense, and using silicone adheasive to reseal them.

 

[sle2115]

They can be 'resealed' It's jsut a matter of carefully removing the lense, and using silicone adheasive to reseal them.

I resealed one with hot melt glue for a buddy. He hit a deer and it popped the lense off, didn't break anything, just popped it off.

Also, Eastwood sells a headlight haze removing kit. It has a fine Flitz polish and a small buffer wheel. I used it on my 87 lenses, just before I broke one of them on a mailbox after getting this big thing crossed up on a patch of ice. It worked great for me. You could use it inside or out if you take the lense off. Just checked Eastwoods, they now have two kits. www.eastwood.com and do a search for "headlight polishing" I used the cheaper one, $15.99 with good results, can't say about the other one. Eastwoods also has some other neat stuff for working on cars/trucks, and no, I am not affiliated with them, just passing on some information. They are great to deal with as well.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

That's the reason for using adhesive. It holds waaaay better than glue.

You can also use Meguiars Clear Plastic Cleaner(#17) and, or, Clear Plastic Polish(#10). I've used it numorous times on stuff. Headlights, plastic topper windows, bugshields ect. Works great!

It's available local and around $10.00 for both bottles

 

[sle2115]

That's the reason for using adhesive. It holds waaaay better than glue.

Not properly applied hot melt glue, applied at the temp that it actually melts the item being glued slightly.


Maybe the way I posted that was incorrect, I hot melt glued it after he hit the deer, actually as a result of him hitting the deer! He was on his way out to my house last year to stay the night and guess what we were doing the next day...deer hunting! Got his before season. It stuck it's head out of the brush along side a gravel road to look at his headlight, he gave it a real close look. Killed it instantly, no meat damage and all it did to his truck was knocked the lens off!!! It would have totalled mine, as that is my luck.

If you use hot melt glue correctly, the headlight will break before the glue will. Most people don't let it get hot enough. I have used the clear adhesive silicone as well for other apps, but the hot melt glue will actually burnish into the plastic, giving you close to a hermetic type seal (OE Seal). I also have a plastic welder and have successfully sealed one with it. That light will not come apart without breakage, but it is not for the faint of heart. The plastic welder WILL damage stuff if not careful. The line between welding and blowing out the plastic is a fine one indeed!