Ididriver
Full Access Member
Thanks! I didn't realize there was one in fort Walton.
That's only an hour or so drive away for me.
Headgaskets.
- Thread starter Ididriver
- Start date
Thanks! I didn't realize there was one in fort Walton.
That's only an hour or so drive away for me.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Ididrver, I've been where you are. I had my truck about 2 months before it blew the head gaskets and i had to put it down to do the work. I was really short on cash, working and going to school. The build took me 4 months and it was a real pain in the tail. We could all spend your money that you don't have right now but we should really just keep you advised of the essentials. This is my OPINION and not facts, but this worked for me. My feeling is that you will soon either do a real build or you'll get bored with the IDI and buy something else. To get you by for now and still have a reliable truck it is IMPERATIVE that you follow the reverse torque sequence to take the heads loose. THAT part is not my opinion. 7.3 bolts are troqued to either 90 or 100 ft-lbs memory is foggy... and if ou don't release that torque properly well you're going to warp or crack a head. Second, if Lindstromjd knows a good machine shop it is worth what it takes to get those heads down there. They need to be made flat if at all possible but it would be worse to mill them below minimum thickness specs. My bet is they will be within limits if the engine hasn't been overheated and you follow the correct untorquing sequence. You should have the heads pressure checked and magnafluxed and the valves need to be thoroughly looked over. A lot of 7.3s dropped valves. Now is the time to make sure this doesn't happen to you. If the valves aren't worn to the point of causing issues and they work right/aren't burned, I'd leave them alone. Messing with them can open up a can of worms unless it is done perfectly. You must get both the engine block and the head mating surfaces spotlessly clean. Here is where you need to be OCD about them being perfect...no old gasket material, no oil, be like Mel and make sure not so much as a fingerprint remains on either. You also need to get hold of a bottoming tap and chase the threads in the block. Put that thing on a T-handle. These guys tried to warn me but I didn't listen, so now a tap lives in one of my coolant passages. Granted it hasn't caused any noticeable issues but there it is. Lastly and most controversially, 7.3 and 6.9 headbolts are not TTY and you can reuse them, but you must clean them up. I used a die, some say this is wrong but mine have held up for going on 8 years like this. You may have a hard time finding a bottoming tap, icanfixall has instructions on how to make a standard tap bottoming. I didn't know how to do this so I just used a standard tap. It has worked but it was not correct. The studs are better but you don't have the money and you don't boost enough to even begin to worry about them. 7.3 bolts are good to 12 psi all day long. 15+ and you may be asking for it. If you don't have a lift, you're going to be asking for it...to damage your gaskets and possibly lose a fingertip also. I'd like to hear about handles for the heads. Ideally you take that heater box off and evacuate the AC system and also take the evaporator core off. This would give you plenty of room. Note that you'd probably need to tow it to a shop or have someone with a machine come to you to evacuate the refrigerant it is illegal and poor ethics to vent it to the atmosphere. You can rent a cherry picker for very reasonable rates at most any rental shop. I think you can do this the way that I did because this method bought me several years. I trust my gaskets pretty well even now after adding a turbo and having around 70,000 miles on them. True, what these guys are telling you is the best and most correct way but when you don't have much money you must focus on what is absolutely critical, that is 1) Torqe/loosening sequence 2) Surface prep 3) Making sure the heads are ok. Lastly take your time and enjoy the project and make sure small stuff doesn't get overlooked. (Flame jacket on)
lindstromjd
Black Sheep
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
JD is correct on the untorquing of the heads. There ARE people who do not do that and have no ill affect. BUT, the chances of them having a problem is there. It is really not worth the guessing game to do it improperly.
SWS
SWS
I had a washer break on me during the final torque sequence on the Moose Truck back in 2001. I took that bolt out and replaced the washer. The noises the head made when I did that still haunt me to this day. 
Don't subject your head to uneven presure!
Don't subject your head to uneven presure!
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
I have a set of studs for sale for $230 shipped. They are ARP. I just dropped the price as a local guy offered me $225 and is coming after them late this weekend. I'd rather see someone on here get them for that price, I have two sets and won't ever need both, keeping one set and selling the other. First person to paypal the money owns them, otherwise, they are supposed to be picked up Monday am. Pm me for my paypal addy if interested. I see several looking for them, here they are!
Ididriver
Full Access Member
Thanks but isn't the kit you're selling for the 6.9 if I remember right reading you're thread about them.?
Thanks guys I'll take upmost care when untourqe the heads. And in the right order!. And as for the machine shop. I'll be calling them and getting prices. If I can't swing it eight now...well I'll work my **** off with random odds and end jobs to get the money.
Thanks for the words diesel JD. Good info there. Really helped me..
MEL. What u just described sounds like a really scary sound to hear from somethin so important such as a head.
Well I'm off to work on the truck. Update y'all later.
Ididriver
Full Access Member
PM sent! Yeah... it actually sounds like someone dragging a brick across another brick
Yikes
I think that would scare the hell out of me!
Ididriver
Full Access Member
Got the rear bolt out of the valley pan. Went to pull it and it was still catching on the ip. The bolts are already pulled out of the valley pan by the ip.
I was doing everything I could to not pull the ip do I really have to pull it? I dindt wantto have to worry about timing later...
I was doing everything I could to not pull the ip do I really have to pull it? I dindt wantto have to worry about timing later...
Last edited:
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Pulling the IP is minor compared to what you're already signed up for. Make a mark where your timing is right now both on the IP mounting flange and on the gear housing. A scribe is better than a pen or anything that could get wiped off. Whiteout would be a good 2nd choice. Do that but don't take the gear cover off and you should be fine.
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
centerpunch with the tip right in the middle of the crack should make a good reference point
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
PM sent! Yeah... it actually sounds like someone dragging a brick across another brick
PM returned.
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Crap, yeah you are right...sorry! For some reason I thought you had a 6.9.
Ididriver
Full Access Member
Well Christmas is over so it's time to start working on the truck again.
I've picked up
And ordered the complete felpro gasket set for the head. (head gaskets valve cover gaskets exhaust manifold gasket and what else?)
So whats left to pick up. Valley pan gasket (54 dollars) oil change to get all the crap outta engine. And coolant( price?)
not to mention freaking water got in the engine
from were I can't get the truck in the garage.
So here's what I noticed. Valve covers are off...how do I get the head bolts off do I have to pull the rockers? (bare with me this is my first time I've dug this far in it's all a learning experience)
So hopefully drivers side head will be off tomorrow and I can see how the cylinders look...then heads are off to the machine shop ( found one about 15 miles away) to make sure everything checks out ok walk ally sensor water got inside.
I've picked up
And ordered the complete felpro gasket set for the head. (head gaskets valve cover gaskets exhaust manifold gasket and what else?)
So whats left to pick up. Valley pan gasket (54 dollars) oil change to get all the crap outta engine. And coolant( price?)
not to mention freaking water got in the engine
from were I can't get the truck in the garage.So here's what I noticed. Valve covers are off...how do I get the head bolts off do I have to pull the rockers? (bare with me this is my first time I've dug this far in it's all a learning experience)
So hopefully drivers side head will be off tomorrow and I can see how the cylinders look...then heads are off to the machine shop ( found one about 15 miles away) to make sure everything checks out ok walk ally sensor water got inside.
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