'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
i know what your saying but i would rather have a working IP than a bad IP b/c i left tghe screw cranked in to far and messed something up.
From what i have learned about diesel care's IP's this does not surprise me.
Head gasket question
- Thread starter '94IDITurbo7.3
- Start date
i know what your saying but i would rather have a working IP than a bad IP b/c i left tghe screw cranked in to far and messed something up.
From what i have learned about diesel care's IP's this does not surprise me.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well... That pump is not really the best pump to use but its what you have for now. After reading about diesel careless on the hall of shame forum I really felt nobody here would buy from them for good reasons posted. But again its where you are so just get as much life out of that pump as you can. Then the next pump you need I can recommend a great pump builder named Consetoga Injection Pump Srevice. I can supply an address and phone number if needed too. Its the shop that was making all the Moose pumps and injecters. They do great work well above all the others available.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
I didn't know about this site until after i did injectors and IP.
The machine shop that had my heads the first time and gave them to me in the condition posted above was also "Highly recommended" to me by a very knowledgeable engine builder in the area. Won't hurt to get a spring compressor from Autozone and check things out BEFORE you install those heads.
Heath
Mark Gauthier
Registered User
Have you come to any conclusions of where your water is going?
You echo the same problem I'm having.
I changed head gaskets and problem reappeared within a 2 week period.
I've been scratching my head at this one.
I'm always looking for answers.
Got any?
You echo the same problem I'm having.
I changed head gaskets and problem reappeared within a 2 week period.
I've been scratching my head at this one.
I'm always looking for answers.
Got any?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
mine was leaking at the head gasket in my picture on the first page.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
Got heads, valve covers, and some other parts painted over this past week. lowered heads onto the block today.
having a problem with my studs though. all of the studs long the bottom of each head right above the exhaust manifold only go in a couple turns, then stop. it is not the studs, but at the same time i don't think it is the block. i took a head bolt and threaded down all the bolt hose in the block until they bottomed out, then i blew the holes out with compressed air. i know the studs are longer than the bolts but the extra length is not in the picture at the time when they stop threading. i have moved the studs to different holes and they go all the way in by hand. i tried bolts in the trouble holes and they go all the way in.
Any ideas?
having a problem with my studs though. all of the studs long the bottom of each head right above the exhaust manifold only go in a couple turns, then stop. it is not the studs, but at the same time i don't think it is the block. i took a head bolt and threaded down all the bolt hose in the block until they bottomed out, then i blew the holes out with compressed air. i know the studs are longer than the bolts but the extra length is not in the picture at the time when they stop threading. i have moved the studs to different holes and they go all the way in by hand. i tried bolts in the trouble holes and they go all the way in.
Any ideas?
Did you run a bottoming tap through the threads in the block?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
no, just one of the old head bolts.
Get a bottoming tap and chase those threads......... if it is even possible now that the heads are on the block. Most taps are not even close to being long enough to do the job with the heads on there. That sucks too because that is an important step in getting correct torque on head bolts. Not as critical with studs, but it is critical if you can get the studs to seat properly in the block threads. Those threads are so close to the heat generated by the exhaust they are the most likely to be corroded. Put a little (not a huge glob) of grease in the recesses of the tap to trap and hold the debrit that will be generated from chasing the threads, again, if you can do it now.
I'd put some copper based antiseize on the bottom threads of the studs. Otherwise, they may not want to come out of the block years later.
Be sure to lube the washers (top and bottom) the base of the nut and the threads at the top of the stud with ARP's Ultra-Torque fastner lube before you start torquing the heads down.
Please take your time and don't rush the process. Little things can add up to a big problems down the road.
Heath
I'd put some copper based antiseize on the bottom threads of the studs. Otherwise, they may not want to come out of the block years later.
Be sure to lube the washers (top and bottom) the base of the nut and the threads at the top of the stud with ARP's Ultra-Torque fastner lube before you start torquing the heads down.
Please take your time and don't rush the process. Little things can add up to a big problems down the road.
Heath
Did you take the valves out and look at them, the seats, and the check the guide to valve steam play............. before installation of the heads?
Heath
Heath
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
yeah the valves and such looks good.
were can i get a bottoming tap and what tap do i need?
it just doesn't make sense to me how the bolt can go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the block(with the head off) but the stud stops after just a few turns. tomorrow i am going to mark the stud an a bolt and see how many turns i get out of each.
i had even thought that maybe the head was kind of being pulled down by the exhaust mani causing some misalignment, but the head bolt goes in fine in those trouble holes and all the other studs go in fine.
were can i get a bottoming tap and what tap do i need?
it just doesn't make sense to me how the bolt can go all the way to the bottom of the hole in the block(with the head off) but the stud stops after just a few turns. tomorrow i am going to mark the stud an a bolt and see how many turns i get out of each.
i had even thought that maybe the head was kind of being pulled down by the exhaust mani causing some misalignment, but the head bolt goes in fine in those trouble holes and all the other studs go in fine.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
on a side note, i got my super nice new torque wrench from Snap-On today
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
ok. so i put an OEM head bolt in the "problem" holes and made a mark on it. the oem bolt will turn in about 12.5 turns until it touched the head. they go in nice and easy. did the same thing with a stud. the stud turns in about 6.5-7 turns until is locks right up. i even put a 3/8" drive ratchet on them and they still don't move. can't find a bottoming, or any tap for that mater, long enough to do this with the heads on. this just doesn't make any sense. based on the test i just did the thread in the block are good.
I'm about ready to just throw the oem bolts back in and put the stupid thing back together and drive it. The hell with the studs. dad's getting pissy about it taking so long. he's not gonna be happy if i tell him the heads have to come off again. I am tired of every single "simple" job that i do on this truck taking a hundred times longer than it should. now it will be another week before i can lift the heads again if i go that route. i swear to god i have had this truck for going on 3 years and in that three years i have never driven it more than probly 3 months at a time. drive it for a couple months and then something breaks/needs fixing. then it sits for a couple months, drive again for a couple months. a month for breaks, two months for rear spring hangers, two months for turbo, almost a month for this, couple months for trans/IP?injector issues, at least a month for the cooling system last fall. i just tired of it.
I'm about ready to just throw the oem bolts back in and put the stupid thing back together and drive it. The hell with the studs. dad's getting pissy about it taking so long. he's not gonna be happy if i tell him the heads have to come off again. I am tired of every single "simple" job that i do on this truck taking a hundred times longer than it should. now it will be another week before i can lift the heads again if i go that route. i swear to god i have had this truck for going on 3 years and in that three years i have never driven it more than probly 3 months at a time. drive it for a couple months and then something breaks/needs fixing. then it sits for a couple months, drive again for a couple months. a month for breaks, two months for rear spring hangers, two months for turbo, almost a month for this, couple months for trans/IP?injector issues, at least a month for the cooling system last fall. i just tired of it.
You can make a tap or sorts out of an old head bolt by using a grinder to cut grooves/recesses in the thread portion and hope that works at cleaning up the treads enough to get the studs in.
Maybe a dumb question....... you sure they gave you the correct stud set?
Heath
Maybe a dumb question....... you sure they gave you the correct stud set?
Heath
