Has anyone ever tried maxing out cetane boost in synthetic WMO to avoid friggin' around with the timing?

[WMO4IDI]

I believe its more than just improving flow. The higher temperature brings it closer to autoignition.

I agree with your point, I was just saying that for my application I might be better off putting a 12V silicone heating mat with a thermostat on the fuel filter for winter time.

Apparently these engines run best when the fuel entering the IP is between 60F to 100F, hotter than that and fuel density goes down which results in loss of power.

 

[WMO4IDI]

I suppose the oil you buy in the store they are calling "synthetic" must not be a true pure synthetic like that ingersol rand oil was.

I wonder if the original blend had anti-ignition additives, I know some hydraulic fluids have it when used in hi-temp applications.

 

[ttman4]

What is synthetic oil made out of anyway????? Anybody know??? Used milk jugs???

Just speculating here......
They sell synthetic blends so I wonder if somehow,...... lets say an oil well in N Dakota is pumping pure black oil out of the ground.
Then the same oil company has an oil well in California pumping pure cloudy colored used liquid milk jugs out of the ground & call it "oil."
Then they "refine" both oils, mix them together & call it "Synthetic Blend."

 

[ttman4]

Im not an expert either, lol. But from what I've read by raising the temperature of the fuel prior to injection its makes for better atomization and thus better/easier combustion. If you use a heat exchanger that uses engine Coolant you could raise the temperature of your fuel by over a 100f. That might improve combustiblility as good as raising cetane level with additives. I did pick up a marine heat exchanger that I plan to install at some point. I primarily got it to increase viscosity for the lift pump, but I also did for the supposed fuel efficiency improvements that Ive seen claimed

I've not been on here much lately & probably have missed lots. Bunch of personal stuff etc etc.
Also haven't been driving Bessie much lately for little over a yr....Personal stuff etc

Bessie, my '90 CCLB Turboed IDI Dually with the now '94 Factory IDIT engine.

Anyway, I been running WMO blends in her since '03. Lots of learning curves!

I rigged up a 30 plate heat exchanger (EBAY) plumbed from head to exchanger, got T to heater after exchanger. (Valve cutoff to/from heater in summer time)
Built tank heaters out of 1/2 in aluminum tubing coiled round & round about 6" coils. One in front tank, one in rear tank, two in my 130 gal bed tank.
5/8 heater hose from head to exchanger, then on to fuel filter & hose coiled round & round fuel filter ( changed out filter & filter head & now usually use a long filter #FS1212) then hose plumbed on back down drivers side frame & have splitters with manual cut off/on valves with heated water to each tank heater.
(I can also cut off heated water to/from each tank with the manual valves)
All water circulates thru each tank in & out, then all water return all comes back together passenger side of frame, with by-pass water filter plumbed in along there. Then return back into engine.
Have a 3 way manual valve plumbed in return fuel so I can return my return fuel into front tank, rear tank, or to bed tank.
I run WMO full strength or blends in rear tank, diesel in front & Bed Tank (usually)
( 4 yr ago run to Tx & back using hi-strength WMO blend in rear & Bed tank. about 6,000 mi total)
All total my capacity of heated water/antifreeze is nearly 8 gal.
When driving Bessie I usually crank up on diesel, drive 1-2 miles, switch over to rear tank WMO blends, drive thru the day, switch back to front tank diesel 1 1/2-2 mi before home.
Then tomorrow crank on diesel & do it all over again tomorrow.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

I had another thought about this: If you wire your cold idle advance circuit to a toggle switch you can engage it any time you’re running WMO and gain a couple degrees of timing advance.

If that’s not enough you can install a fuel pressure regulator and turn up/down the pressure to the IP. I saw a video where someone tested the timing at different lift pump pressures and saw a 3-4 degree timing difference. I think CDD even sells a kit to adjust your timing on the fly inside the cab by changing the IP input pressure.

I’m going to get some more WMO tomorrow so this stuff has been on my mind

 

[Black dawg]

I had another thought about this: If you wire your cold idle advance circuit to a toggle switch you can engage it any time you’re running WMO and gain a couple degrees of timing advance.

If that’s not enough you can install a fuel pressure regulator and turn up/down the pressure to the IP. I saw a video where someone tested the timing at different lift pump pressures and saw a 3-4 degree timing difference. I think CDD even sells a kit to adjust your timing on the fly inside the cab by changing the IP input pressure.

I’m going to get some more WMO tomorrow so this stuff has been on my mind

the cold advance will only work if your fuel mix is flowing well enough that there is return fuel.