Gutting CDR valve?

chillman88

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Now I've been thinking about this. If I get a turbo, would it be ok to run directly into a catch can and then into the intake before the turbo? I would "assume" the catch can would capture the oil vapor, eliminating the possibility of a runaway, thus eliminating the need for a CDR?

Crankcase pressure shouldn't make any difference with boost and with the turbo there should be a vacuum on the intake right?
 

raydav

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Now I've been thinking about this. If I get a turbo, would it be ok to run directly into a catch can and then into the intake before the turbo? I would "assume" the catch can would capture the oil vapor, eliminating the possibility of a runaway, thus eliminating the need for a CDR?

Crankcase pressure shouldn't make any difference with boost and with the turbo there should be a vacuum on the intake right?

There will be a slight vacuum at the intake to the compressor. There will be positive pressure in the intake manifold.

You need to plug the hole in the intake manifold where the CDR connected to the intake manifold.

I found liquid oil tended to escape the CDR port in the valley pan. So I plugged the valley hole and added ports to the valve covers. I get very little oil there. I feed the valve cover vents to a Mann. The output of the Mann can then go to the intake of the compressor.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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raydav

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Yep but I wouldn’t fool with EBay junk it isn’t THAT expensive. Also the separator filters have a special media not a screen.

You should be cautious telling people they cannot do what they are actually doing.

Mann separators are serious products.
 

raydav

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I am on the road now but will check my stock when I get home. I have been calling mine Mann, I have seen the product and talked to Mann at SEMA, and I think mine are real, but I did not pay $150 for them. The marketing channel can make a big difference.

You can read the label on mine here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3bW7e3yK7dNWxzqGA
 
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chillman88

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I am on the road now but will check my stock when I get home. I have been calling mine Mann, I have seen the product and talked to Mann at SEMA, and I think mine are real, but I did not pay $150 for them. The marketing channel can make a big difference.

You can read the label on mine here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3bW7e3yK7dNWxzqGA

Yep thats what it says. I only saw the Mann one on Amazon for $144. To be fair, I didn't do my usual diligence in price searching because I saw the knockoff on eBay for $26. I can do some extra looking around when I get ready to do a turbo install.
 

jwsfarrier

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Along these same lines, Im currently installing one of the new Mishimoto Hi-Flo catch cans. Kind of spendy but looks like a nice product. Im venting through both valve covers to the catch can then through the intake. Previously I was running Racor CCV4500 vented through the time gear cover like the Banks system. Man that picked up a lot of oil splash and quickly plugged up the filter media and caused restriction. No CDR on either set up. Hoping this set up does the trick.
 

YJMike92

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I have not heard of the Mann product until this thread. It looks like the best unit out there for what I was looking to accomplish when I am able to resume work on my truck. I was looking at the installation instructions and see that the oil return to the engine should be below the oil level in the oil pan. has anyone done that and how did you accomplish it?https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com...ummel/kurbelgehauseentlueftung/ProVent_en.pdf
 

IDIBRONCO

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From what I read, it can be installed above the oil level if you use a non-return valve. I don't understand why It would need to be installed 30mm-50mm above the oil level though. It seems like the oil would drip down into the pan just fine from farther away than that.
 

YJMike92

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From what I read, it can be installed above the oil level if you use a non-return valve. I don't understand why It would need to be installed 30mm-50mm above the oil level though. It seems like the oil would drip down into the pan just fine from farther away than that.
The only thing I can think is it has to do with the crankcase pressure which is why you have the blowby, to begin with. It does seem to be a superior unit than most I've seen. I would probably still do a road draft tube to keep oil out of the intercooler when it is installed. I have the oil pan off the engine now for the rebuild. I think I will weld an oil return tube into the pan near the dipstick tube?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I thought that the non=return valve was supposed to counteract the crankcase pressure. I don't see why you couldn't install it 100mm above the oil level or even rig up something to go into the second, unused dipstick hole.
 
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