GP light: On once this morning, that's it... Need her today. Not the time!

Agnem

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So if the plugs check good (the test light must glow brightly! Not dimly.) then their could be a broken wire in the harness. I doubt you fill find this to be the case however. Best to focus on what we know, versus what we fear. As for the glow plug "relay", an important point to make. All these types of contactors look the same on the outside. But there are two type. The bar type, and the disc type. You MUST have a disc type contactor, otherwise you will only get a few good starts out of the contactor. The people who sell these will not be able to tell you what type it is. The only way to be sure is to buy a Motorcraft one.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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...well, they all glow... I'll go out again and see if one or two are dimmer than the rest. I'll also pull the two harnesses I made and check them for continuity. The relay I put in was a BWD... it was a "direct fit". Basically, I was running into a lot of ones on the internet that had the mounting bracket 90 degrees off on the unit. Even the photo for the Motorcraft one was off... Also, I didn't want to wait, and the BWD was available right away at my local parts store.

Is there something else that it might be? I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure that the GPC and the plugs are good to go... You think I might have to replace the entire GPC unit, not just the relay? Also, clear it up for me... why is "relay" in quotes in your post? Just curious.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Ok... So i checked again... Bright all around. They were Berus from 11/13, so they're a little over a year old... I don't know the typical life on them. But they all seem functional. I pulled my wiring harnesses and tested them for continuity... They checked out too. One thing though: one bullet connector on the pass. bank, #5 cyl GP has sings of a meltdown... Despite the GP testing good, and the harness testing good, the #5 GP's tip showed some crud/corrosion, and the bullet conn, looks like this:

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I think I'm going to clean and lightly recrimp the bullet connector, clean the plug tip, reconnect and see what I see after that...

Any other thoughts?
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Ok... so my plugs are good. My relay is good... I noticed something else though. When I turn the key to on, and put the pedal down to trip the high idle solenoid, it doesn't do anything. However, when I bridge the battery pole to the ignition pole on the GP relay, giving it 12v... It pops out. This to me says (and i'm almost aways wrong...) that the RED|grn wire that's coming from the ignition isn't doing it's job. I took out the glow plug switch mod I put in, and it was so long ago that I can't remember if the RED|grn is actually the 12V+ ignition wire or not... Anybody have a diagram or photo of the stock GPC?

I'll start looking through tech articles too...
 

madpogue

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That tells me there's a blown fuse or fusible link or maxifuse (I forget what it would be on a '94); I think it's a single one that powers the GP controller and the cold idle / cold advance. Might even power the FSS. You're basically bypassing that fuse when you jump those terminals on the relay, which is why the cold idle responds.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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That tells me there's a blown fuse or fusible link or maxifuse (I forget what it would be on a '94); I think it's a single one that powers the GP controller and the cold idle / cold advance. Might even power the FSS. You're basically bypassing that fuse when you jump those terminals on the relay, which is why the cold idle responds.

...yeah, that's what I was thinking. It would explain why I got 1 good GP cycle.... cranked. No start (it was COLD)... Then on the second cycle, the WTS light went out abruptly after about 3 sec... Almost like a light bulb (or fuse... duh) blowing. Usually the light goes out gently, or even flickers once while it's going out.

So, now to find the location of such a fuse... I wouldn't know where to start. Back to the tech articles! ;p

If anyone sees this and could save me the time it takes to look for that info in the techs by just telling me where it is, I'll owe you a beer. :D
 

madpogue

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Um, the owner's manual? (Or check the underside of the lid of the underhood fuse box)

Edit - just guessing, but if they carried any of the general circuitry and fuse assignments over from the later IDIs to the OBS PSDs, check fuse #22 underhood, farthest one from the fender in the middle row. But if it's blown, and again, if it's wired similarly to the PSDs, that fuse might also energize a heater on the fuel filter base. I would disconnect that first before replacing the fuse, in case it's a short in that heater that's causing it to blow. Sorry, I'm just going on speculation; I know that stuff in my head with the PSDs, and have some familiarity with the '83-'86 wiring; just haven't been under the hood with an OBS IDI before.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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3rd owner... No manual. Would have been the first place I looked...

I'll try what you said. Thanks.

Think I might go on Scamazon and get an in depth guide for the old girl... Seems like it would be a good supplement to my OB membership. :)
 

madpogue

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You can get owner's manuals pretty cheap on fleabay, or a junkyard might just give you one if they've gotten such a truck in recently. For more "in depth", you want to get the original Ford FSMs. Again, used on fleabay is probably your best bet.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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....well, I went probing with my test light with the key in run pos, and you were damn close. It was a 20 amp maxifuse. Not #22, but #11. Bridged it, and the 12v+ for the tempswitch/fuel shutoff/highidlesolenoid/GPtrigger came a FLOWIN!

Thanks madpogue for pointing me in the right direction. Headed to town in a bit to join in with my lady's bowling league (i'm their ringer :D ). Will pick up some fuses while I'm in town. Might get two new batteries as well. I think this trying winter and all my hard starting has pretty much killed them.

This site is honestly the best thing any diesel owner can ask for. Thank you to you all!
 

ironworker40

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I,m a little late on this but 1993 manual shows maxi fuse position k 20 amp first position top left in under hood box and #17 on interior panel 10 amp is for diesel warning lamp display among other things. Also 2 14 ga dark grey fuse links at solenoid on right fender feed battery power to glow plug relay. position u 20 amp maxi fuse in under hood box is fuel line heater, first position center row.
 

madpogue

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I treat maxifuses like I do any other fuse or light bulb, that is, I keep at least two of each "denomination" the truck uses in each glove box.
 

N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy

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Yeah... I'm gonna stock up. The fact that a friggin' fuse has been making me this frustrated for two days is, well... -cuss

Whatever that '93 manual says, I don't know... But what I do know is that I had one burnt fuse: #11 (next to diode), maxi, 20amp... and when I bridged, voila! WTS light and all. So glad I didn't jump the gun and get a whole new GPC unit. At least now I have a spare relay, and I was only in $20 or so...

Did a few other things while I had my air filter housing off too, since that's par for the course...

Since I have some people active on this right now, I'll ask a second question, totally different subject... I thought for the longest time that the startup smoke i was having was air issues, but now it's getting more frequent, more smoky, and bluer... I read another post (can't remember thread) that said that that was an oil issue... it's getting in the chamber. That being said, I noticed that the seam between my turbo housing and the snail piece that mounts to the top of the head has oil leaking out of it... Also, there is some oil leaking out of the bottom center of the driverside valve cover... Which one of these do you think is more likely to be causing the oil in the cylinder issue? My guess would be 100% conjecture, so I won't bother. I have a Motorcraft 1995 oil filter on the way and 11 quarts too... The one i have on there is SERIOUSLY in need of removal... Would a super clogged filter also be leading to this oil burn issue? It's also always worse when she's cold... and all across the rpm band....
 

Agnem

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The red wire w/green stripe is what powers your High Idle and GPC. If that wire was dead, then... yeah. Unpredictable results. "Relay" is in quotes, because to me, it's not a relay but everybody calls it one. Definitions between them vary and there is a lot of confusion about it. But primarily, a relay has a hinge, and a front and a back. The type of device used to carry really high current is more suitably called a contactor. The same thing you might find in your AC compressor outside your house. Any device that uses a solenoid to draw in a bar or pole that has a pair of contacts that move in unison is considered a contactor. For the purposes of most conversations, it's neither here nor there if it is a contactor or a relay, but contactors and relays usually make distinctively different sounds when they actuate, so I like calling them what they are. The solenoid on the fender for your starter motor is also a contactor, where as all the little black plastic boxes in your power distribution block are typically relays. The reason contactors carry heavier loads than relays, is that in a relay, you have a hinge which is typically a bronze or thin flexible metal strip which bends with each actuation. In order for the relay contact to move, the metal strip must be thin enough so that it can bend easily. This thin strip is also responsible for carrying the circuit load, so if you were to make a relay heavy enough to carry the kind of current your glow plugs draw, then the flexible strip would be so thick it wouldn't bend. That's why a contactor is necessary. There is no hinge to flex.
 

madpogue

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What defines a relay in electrical terms has nothing to do with the inner mechanics. In electrical terms, a relay uses one circuit requiring a small amount of current to control a circuit that carries a larger amount of current. Some relays, like the glow plug relay and starter relay, have solenoids inside them. But they aren't solenoids in themselves. They're relays, just like the smaller square relays in the underhood fuse box.
 

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