Gp controller?

yotekiller

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So I'm waiting on another pc ofthe puzzle to arrive, decided to see what volts i was getting from this factory GP harness 10.23 volts also realized after awhile the harness connectors was still on and did not cut off, i know this controller goes off the gp resistance but is there a time frame it should cycle off?
Could be why all these plugs are dead, as well is an attached pic of the controller, only problem i had putting this on new was the ground wire only bolt that it would fit was tye GP controller hold down bolt back right (looking from front of truck). I am gonna need another fuel Vac switch its seeping thru to the wire connector as well.
 

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Cubey

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The relay is what can go bad on those, it's mechanical inside and can either get stuck not activating or stuck activated. It's the thing on top there held down by two gold nuts at the base of it at a metal plate. (upper left in your pics is one of the nuts)

The relay:


10.23V with the glow plugs activated is normal, or was that the reading without the relay actived? Depending on how warm it is, the controller kicks the relay on for around 5-10 seconds typically, when the "Wait to start" light is lit.
 

yotekiller

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The relay is what can go bad on those, it's mechanical inside and can either get stuck not activating or stuck activated. It's the thing on top there held down by two gold nuts at the base of it at a metal plate. (upper left in your pics is one of the nuts)

The relay:


10.23V with the glow plugs activated is normal, or was that the reading without the relay actived? Depending on how warm it is, the controller kicks the relay on for around 5-10 seconds typically, when the "Wait to start" light is lit.u
Thanks Cubey
i did not know if that relay was on a timer or not "how long power goes to the Gp's".
i thought it was a little over 10Volts was normal reading to the Gp's.
I will get another controller, thats not a problem.. seeing one for sale that has the box on it as well for a not so bad price, i understand that box it sets on typically does not go bad.
 

Cubey

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Thanks Cubey
i did not know if that relay was on a timer or not "how long power goes to the Gp's".
i thought it was a little over 10Volts was normal reading to the Gp's.
I will get another controller, thats not a problem.. seeing one for sale that has the box on it as well for a not so bad price, i understand that box it sets on typically does not go bad.

The relay is timed based on the resistance of the glow plugs or some such thing. The colder the engine it is, the longer the controller will want to run the glow plugs.

The black part is the controller, the brown is the relay:

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But it sounds like your glow plugs are firing. How long are they staying on?

And, glow plugs are a consumable item, so they do burn out with age. If you live in a cold climate and need them to fire a long time often, they won't last as long as someone who lives in low elevation Arizona. Only Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs should be used to avoid risk of ballooning and breaking off in the head when removed.
 

Big Bart

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Thanks Cubey
i did not know if that relay was on a timer or not "how long power goes to the Gp's".
i thought it was a little over 10Volts was normal reading to the Gp's.
I will get another controller, thats not a problem.. seeing one for sale that has the box on it as well for a not so bad price, i understand that box it sets on typically does not go bad.
The GP system will cycle between 8-18 seconds when it is working and senses your glow plugs and wiring harness are working. Then it cycles on and off for a short period of time to keep the glow plugs hot.

The controller (Bottom part) sends a ground temporarily to the white wire on the relay.(Top half.) The ignition switch sends +12v down the red wire to the relay. When the white wire has ground from the controller and the red wire has +12v from the ignition switch, the relay (Top part) energizes sending power to the glow plugs.

If your GP system is staying on, either the relay is stuck as Cubey discussed or your controller is constantly sending a ground to the relay and is not working.
 

ROCK HARVEY

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Which connector are you testing? The one post I circled in the picture is always hot. When the relay switches to “on,” it connects the always hot terminal to the ribbon across from it.
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yotekiller

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Which connector are you testing? The one post I circled in the picture is always hot. When the relay switches to “on,” it connects the always hot terminal to the ribbon across from it.
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Yeah i tested both. Im familiar with these but wanted to make sure.. i tested the plug wire connectors yesterday while ign key was on and its sending power to tye gp's im not sure if its cutting off or not and looks like i won't until new gp's are in..
 

Cubey

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Why not just make a video showing what it's doing, and post it here? Then we can tell you if it's acting normal or not. uploading to youtube then sharing the link is the easiest way
 

yotekiller

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Why not just make a video showing what it's doing, and post it here? Then we can tell you if it's acting normal or not. uploading to youtube then sharing the link is the easiest way
unfortunately our data here is crappy.. hoping starlink comes thru... all new plugs are in and controller is working correctly so that was a relief, unfortunately i was not able to get #1 injector line broke loose, i got a feeling there may be some rust under that nut, hit it with pb blaster and trying to get this thing bled so it will fire is a bear...
 

IDIBRONCO

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You don't have to have all of the lines loose to bleed the air out. You can do it just fine with #1 still tight.
 

yotekiller

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You don't have to have all of the lines loose to bleed the air out. You can do it just fine with #1 still tight.
thanks a bunch, i hope that sucker breaks free i need to do that side caps. and did find that heater is leaking on top, gonna fix that as that is most likely my drain back from my filter
 

Cubey

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thanks a bunch, i hope that sucker breaks free i need to do that side caps. and did find that heater is leaking on top, gonna fix that as that is most likely my drain back from my filter

Make you use a flare nut wrench if it's extra tight.
 

yotekiller

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Make you use a flare nut wrench if it's extra tight.
i will, i should have that size i used a regular stubby wrench today, that thing not breaking loose made me nervous all the others popped loose fine.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Have you tried using a wrench on the line nut and another one on the timing adapter? Sometimes the adapter is tighter to the line nut than it is to the injector. That will make them want to spin off together. Since the end of the line is between them, it won't happen easily and can/will damage the line.
 

yotekiller

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Have you tried using a wrench on the line nut and another one on the timing adapter? Sometimes the adapter is tighter to the line nut than it is to the injector. That will make them want to spin off together. Since the end of the line is between them, it won't happen easily and can/will damage the line.
yeah i noticed that and that may be the issue, im gonna pb blast the top nut again, almost had it fired off and then noticed the #1 inj. line leaking below best i can tell the timing adapter. plugs are lighting up and after 10-15sec you can hear the controller kick off... hopefully i can get this #1 line off and see whats going on i have the o-rings and caps to replace the drivers side as well.. i knew i shouldn't have messed with that thing yesterday lol..
 

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