Goldenrod Filter

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

By the way, you will LOVE that GOLDENROD unit.

They are the absolute best complete design ever for use as a combination pre-filter and sediment-bowl.

One minor modification that I made to mine was to add a TEE in the outlet port, with the TEE pointing UP.

I installed a bleeder-valve in that TEE, such that I can open the valve and let all the air escape as the fuel fills the bowl.

When nothing but fuel comes out the bleeder, I close the valve.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Teflon tape should NOT be used as a SEALANT period. It is used on threaded fittings for THREAD LUBRICATION ONLY. Liquid Teflon is best used for thread lubrication when there is any movable part down stream of the liquid flowing thru that line. As in an IP, if any partical of tape would be caught in the right place, it is possible to prevent the movement of a spring loaded mechanism or clog the seat of the inlet and/or outlet of the check valves, or even get into an injector. Hopefully the filter would catch any partical.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Im still uncertain if the barb fittings I got are the right size for our line. I have 3/8" barb fittings. I can just cut that blue fuel line right and attach it to the filter?

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Think I got everything I need to do this. Found some brass barbed fittings just to be safe! Picked up two 1" splot ring hangers and two top plate connectors and threaded rod to mount this filter. Its being mounted on the outside of the frame rail. I need to drill some holes probably to get the fuel hose to the filter, that or just pull it between the cab and frame. Also picked up some tfe paste but I'm not sure about it. Says its non hardening but works with all gases and fuels. How do you all feel about this? Only thing left are 4 hose clamps.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I ended up getting some sealant made by permatex for racing, its a sealant and says will seal diesel. allthought im not to sure about it not hardening up. Anyone ever use non hardening sealant? The stuff is blue I used. Tomorrow I should be able to mount it.

 

[riotwarrior]

I ended up getting some sealant made by permatex for racing, its a sealant and says will seal diesel. allthought im not to sure about it not hardening up. Anyone ever use non hardening sealant? The stuff is blue I used. Tomorrow I should be able to mount it.

Do you have an exact Permatex part # or product name?

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

This stuff.

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ng_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm

 

[DOE-SST]

That is Hylomar.

I use it infrequently on aircraft panels, to prevent WATER from getting into areas where it could start corrosion. Never used it on threaded connections though.

Having built several diesel tanks, and pressure-tested them with water, I know that diesel can get through microscopic gaps that water cannot.

It does stay soft for many months, perhaps a year or two.

It dissolves easy with petroleum based cleaners like Toluene, MEK, MPK. It might resist diesel, I haven't tried that. It might not resist WMO cocktails with traces of God-knows-what in them.

It won't resist any kind of pressure, it is too soft, so your fittings should have high quality machined threads that interlock tightly. Much of what I've found is Chinese crap with lousy threads.


Hylomar may work, you can be our tester. Maybe rig a test piece and see if it leaks diesel at 10psi?


I'll probably go with an aerospace sealant, like PR-1422, purposely designed to seal jet fuel tanks. This stuff does not leak, if you apply it to CLEAN areas. Using this, I know my dual tank, dual pump, four filter, two heater, three valve fuel system, with 24 connections, will not leak fuel nor allow air into the system.

You can buy it at most aircraft maintenance shops, for around $35 for a 6 ounce tube. It was designed to be mixed all at once, used with a pneumatic gun, then toss the unused portion. I keep the catalyst tube and sealant tube separate, and just mix up small amounts with a pencil, and seal up the unused portions for later use. You need to mix it very well.



PR-1422 Fuel Tank Sealant
Description:

PR-1422 Class A is an aircraft integral fuel tank sealant. It has a service temperature range from -65°F (-54°C) to 250°F (121°C), with intermittent excursions up to 275°F (135°C). This material is designed for brush sealing of fasteners in fuel tanks and other aircraft fuselage sealing applications. The cured sealant maintains excellent elastomeric properties after prolonged exposure to both jet fuel and aviation gas.

PR-1422 Class A is a two-part, dichromate cured polysulfide compound. The uncured material is suitable for application by brush in thickness up to 25 mils. It cures at room temperature to form a resilient sealant having excellent adhesion to common aircraft substrates.

Technical Data Sheet for PR-1422 Class A adobe.gif (112 bytes)

Specifications:
DMQR1082 STM 0233 TMS-N161-02 AMS-S-8802 TYPE I *
LCM40-1218 STM 0236 ASNA4163
LCM40-2180 DHMS-S3.01 STW5-3253
5666061A GC115 ABP4-5141
STM 0833 AIMS04-05-001,002 ABP4-5142

*Product cannot be certified to MIL-S-8802F, Amd 3, Type I

Specification information provided for reference purposes only. Review specification QPL for verification or consult with engineering services.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I let the sealant sit overnight, it setup into a hard rubber type substance, still a little soft, I guess it dont get fully hard. If this stuff dont hold up to diesel like the package said it did, how would JB weld hold up? I dont plan on taking it back apart so that wouldnt be a problem. The thing would be if it would hold up to diesel.

Well Today I got the Goldenrod filter mounted but not plumbed yet. I installed caps on the ends so nothing gets into the filter or line. The filter is also mounted at a slight angle, so hopefully any air bubbles will get picked up and pulled out of the system.

I mounted it back a little behind the selector valve, I will have use rubber fuel hose to run it over top the frame. What I did today was mount the top plates, which thats where the 3/8" thread rod bolts to. The other end is what holds the 1" pipe in place. I used some nuts to insure the threaded rod wont loosen, along with threadlock.

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[DOE-SST]

Install looks good!


You do quality work.


Thanks for the pics.

I was going to use adel clamps and standoffs to support my goldenrods. Always good to see how someone else tackles a similar problem.

 

[subway]

i agree, thanks for the pics Ryan and great info DOE!

I have been thinking of adding a goldenrod but wasent sure how to mount it, i was even thinking of drilling and tapping the body but i didn't like the idea of the added leak points. i forgot all about those standoffs.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I'm trying to find a way to run the fuel lines through the frame without usimg the fuel line, anyone know of any fittings I can use so rubber line don't have to go through the frame, I'm looking at something 3\8" for a fitting.

 

[icanfixall]

Just run the new lines from the normal fuel line path to the new filter. It will draw fuel thru the filter easily. remember the tank is above the filter and once the pump starts pulling it will fill the filter and your golden....

 

[ghunt]

BTW the filter base is zinc.

Just an FYI, that's an aluminum filter head. Most filter heads (that I've seen) are aluminum, some are plain old cast iron.

Also, as far as running the line through the frame- I'd say just get a short piece of brake line the same diameter as your hose ID (3/8" or whatever) and clamp the hose over the ends. Just make sure there's an inch or two overlap where the hose slips over the tubing, and it'll never leak.

I have a Goldenrod Water-Block and I'm trying to figure out exactly what I want to do with it...would definitely like to put it on my truck, I'm just not sure where.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

I've thought about running it that way, but I want it to look real nice, like it came from a kit. Maybe run hard black line up over the frame and angle them to go next to the factory fuel line. I am sure there is a fitting out there I want maybe ill search mcmaster and grainger.