Gathering up for the Rebuild - What Do I Need On Hand?

[apextrans]

Since I'm waiting on the block & heads to come in, I was wondering what I will need to have on hand for the rebuild. Can gaskets be re-used or is there a complete set available for a rebuild? Who makes high quality gaskets? I'm talking abaout stuff like the HPOP gasket, oil cooler, blah blah blah.

Also, would you guys think it would be ok to reuse the old oil cooler? Only reason I ask is there was a significant amount of metal in the pan & I don't know if any was sucked in through the pick up pipe & made it that far. Can that be checked or drained/cleaned?

Would it be wise to replace the water pump now since I don't know how long it's been on? No cooling issues prior to meltdown, just don't want to do this again. How about rocker arms & push rods? When I pulled them out I didn't keep track of what was where except for the arm with the bent rod. Replace them all or use what looks OK?

So far I found that I need:

* One maybe both up pipes that run from the exhaust manifolds to turbo.
* A/C Condenser (stupid mistake on my part)
* Turbo o-ring set
* Gaskets & some misc bolts.

What else?

 

[JLDickmon]

one of these

this

one of these

three of these

four gallons

some of this

tube of this

don't forget this

ummm...

more if I think of it

-edit-

24 of these; nah, make it 36

 

[apextrans]

Thanks,

I had forgotten about most of that. Except the beer, Knew I'd need that.

 

[tonkadoctor]

DON'T use a "tube of this" on a Powerstroke. Use the correct RTV from Navistar to prevent foaming of the high pressure oil going to the injectors.

P.S. any parts you buy from Navistar, (or Navistar parts from the Ford dealer that havn't been repackaged by them),that needs it will have a tube of the Wacker RTV or any other threadlocker / sealant in the package with the parts.













Of course you do realize that you just blew the perfect excuse to tell mama why you just HAD to drop one of these in it.

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[geonc]

Scott, The oil cooler "could" be flushed clear of any metals but the sure bet would be shell out the few $$$ for a new one.

How about new UVC gaskets and is Ryan sending you a complete build on the short block??....including an oversize rear seal and sleeve?

Any evidence that the crank took a shot?....mebee a new damper.....

Inspect the front cover at the low oil pressure pump area....

get a "complete" eng O/H gasket set....do not try and piece the gaskets.....
You may be surprised to find that these engines require more Whacker gasket in a tube than actual ridged gaskets.....they become self explanatory...after a little :***: on your part

I forget if you have already gutted the EBPV....now would be a good time
How is the idler pulley.......

Any thoughts on a better fuel system to eliminate the fuel bowl?

What about head studs......


hey you asked

 

[JLDickmon]

DON'T use a "tube of this" on a Powerstroke. Use the correct RTV from Navistar to prevent foaming of the high pressure oil going to the injectors.

P.S. any parts you buy from Navistar, (or Navistar parts from the Ford dealer that havn't been repackaged by them),that needs it will have a tube of the Wacker RTV or any other threadlocker / sealant in the package with the parts.

geeze.. settle down, Beavis...
you're not SUPPOSED to need this anyway.. it's just handy to have around.

 

[tonkadoctor]

geeze.. settle down, Beavis...
you're not SUPPOSED to need this anyway.. it's just handy to have around.

Settle down.

Why ...when I'm clarifying something for someone that has never been inside one of these engines and using the wrong stuff can create other known problems.

He will need RTV and lots of it on a PSD.

• entire oil pan
• intakes
• rear block cover plate
• rear main seal
• front timing cover
• other places I can't remember right now

 

[apextrans]

Of course you do realize that you just blew the perfect excuse to tell mama why you just HAD to drop one of these in it.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

CAT paints those freakin' motors gold for a reason!! That's their preferred method of payment when you bust one up. Got 2 C-15 550's to prove it!!! I breifly gave some thought to the cummins swap but have already put too much money into PSD upgrades & couldn't justify starting over with something else.

Geo, 10-4 on the cooler, not worth the risk. UVC's look good & I just put new harnesses in both sides when I did my injectors. Ryan is doing a complete short block. What's an oversized rear seal & sleeve? Crank took a couple shots: see pic. What am I looking for on the front cover? Already did the EBPV delete & pedestal mod when I did my wicked wheel. Idler Pulley seems OK. I plan on adding the regulated return line kit. Why do you want to delete the fuel bowl? I talked to Ryan about the head studs & he suggested with the upgrades I have, new bolts would be fine. I don't plan on making anymore power upgrades. Although it wouldn't hurt to do them while the motor is out, money is the issue right now.

 

[geonc]

Geo, 10-4 on the cooler, not worth the risk. UVC's look good & I just put new harnesses in both sides when I did my injectors. Ryan is doing a complete short block. What's an oversized rear seal & sleeve? Crank took a couple shots: see pic. What am I looking for on the front cover? Already did the EBPV delete & pedestal mod when I did my wicked wheel. Idler Pulley seems OK. I plan on adding the regulated return line kit. Why do you want to delete the fuel bowl? I talked to Ryan about the head studs & he suggested with the upgrades I have, new bolts would be fine. I don't plan on making anymore power upgrades. Although it wouldn't hurt to do them while the motor is out, money is the issue right now.

Scott, I generally use an oversize rear seal and sleeve whenever I get to the rear of an older/high mileage engine...it is basically a new seal with a wear sleeve to eliminate the groove worn by the orig seal....unless you are getting a new/recon crank then a stock seal will be fine.

re: crank damage.....doesn't seem to be enough to cause concern for the vib damper....good clean up with file.....unless Ryan sees more when dissaembled

re: the front cover....remember Tonka's hard start/loosong HPOP prime thread a while back the required removal of the eng?.....look where the outer gear of the oil pump rides against the hsg for scoring, slop etc.......

re: fuel bowl...going to external under chassis filters and placing the Aeromotive regulator in the valley......

ya seem to have the rest covered

 

[suv7734]

Would it be wise to replace the water pump now since I don't know how long it's been on? No cooling issues prior to meltdown, just don't want to do this again.

Always a good idea to do the water pump on a fresh build for the $$ involved especially if history is unknown. Just sitting for a week or two waiting for the short block can cause the seal to dry up and you don't find out about it until you pour in the coolant and light her off. Drip drip

How about rocker arms & push rods? When I pulled them out I didn't keep track of what was where except for the arm with the bent rod. Replace them all or use what looks OK?

It's never a good idea to install used pushrods and rocker arms unless all the parts have been kept in order. Through use they will develop a unique 'wear pattern' and if you mix them after that has been established, it can cause abnormal wear and eventual failure, even if they look OK.

Just some thoughts

Bruce

 

[apextrans]

It's never a good idea to install used pushrods and rocker arms unless all the parts have been kept in order. Through use they will develop a unique 'wear pattern' and if you mix them after that has been established, it can cause abnormal wear and eventual failure, even if they look OK.
Bruce

Yeah, removing that stuff without marking it was my first real newbie mistake. This really is gonna be a "new" motor.

 

[Agnem]

What are the thoughts on assembly lube, or doing something to get oil flowing before trying to start it for the first time?

 

[tonkadoctor]

What are the thoughts on assembly lube, or doing something to get oil flowing before trying to start it for the first time?

I use a litium base assembly lube on every engine I rebuild. I used it on the oil pump change on my 2000 PSD without problems.

You have to get oil flowing for the PSD to even start.

For getting the oil flowing and a much easier first start.

1. Leave the CPS sensor unplugged so you can crank it but not start it.
2. Pre fill the high pressure oil rails through the plugs on top of the rails
3. Pre fill the HPOP resevoir
4. Crank engine for 30 seconds and watch the oil pressure guage
5. If pressure came up on gauge - plug in CPS sensor, start engine and admire your work.
6. If no oil pressure - Re fill the HPOP resevoir go back to step 4

 

[trackspeeder]

I use a litium base assembly lube on every engine I rebuild. I used it on the oil pump change on my 2000 PSD without problems.

You have to get oil flowing for the PSD to even start.

For getting the oil flowing and a much easier first start.

1. Leave the CPS sensor unplugged so you can crank it but not start it.
2. Pre fill the high pressure oil rails through the plugs on top of the rails
3. Pre fill the HPOP resevoir
4. Crank engine for 30 seconds and watch the oil pressure guage
5. If pressure came up on gauge - plug in CPS sensor, start engine and admire your work.
6. If no oil pressure - Re fill the HPOP resevoir go back to step 4

Same here.

 

[geonc]

....or do like I did...try and start with the IPR unplugged

Had 50 psi on the mech gauge .....{just no smoke}