FUMING SMOKE out'a me ears

Noiseydiesel

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(^$#^%$%&*^^!!!!!!!!!
Deep breaths are NOT helping. The rebuilt 7.3idiT went south with about 6K miles on it.
I can't quite blame the rebuilder on this engine, but the installer who cranked on it endlessly trying to start it after install.
I had the rocker switch on the dash to turn on the glowplugs. I gave them 3 written copies of instructions on how to simply flip the switch to turn on the glow plug circuit. They didn't read them and that poor engine got cranked to shi-toola city.
I won't go into long details but th truck is currently sitting at the new diesel shop in town and THEY can have a turn at it.
Why am I not doing the tear down inspection? I figure the rebuilder would desire a second opinion. Yes, this is going to cost me money and I am about to write the entire truck off. Maybe.
Still munching on that thought.
 

Oledirtypearl86

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Well I dont see it causing issues with anything but maby a dry ip thats nothing a filter full of atf wont help to get it fired have you run it yet
 

Noiseydiesel

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Well, I was driving it about 60 MPH when I heard a suspected main/rod bearing started knockin'. Drove it into a diesel shop about 1/2 mile away and that engine was woofin' and not sounding healthy.

I will let them play with it Monday/Tuesday, whenever they go back to work and with a reported 6 week window to get another replacement engine from a rebuilder in New Jersey.
4,550 miles on a rblt engine.
New injectors, Not rblt.
Rblt turbo.
Rblt Inj pump.
New Motorcraft glow plugs, New oil cooler, water pump, fuel pump,
I have a folder here about an inch thick with receipts.
I really don't believe another new fuel filter full of ATF is going to cure a really strongly suspected bearing knock.
Now the interesting part is with the oil cap removed and the engine running, the noise coming out of the oil fill sounded like a high pitched metal whine.
I will let someone else play with it.
Ever get too close to a problem as to not being able to see it?
The question is becoming a fast one of stopping the financial hemorrhaging and whether or not to recover monies lost on this venture or attempt it again.
Still fuming and pondering my options.
This will be a long weekend.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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The only thing cranking an engine over ad nauseum is going to hurt is the starter. The oil will prime and the rest is fine, IMO.
Which leaves the rod knock as a separate issue. Hope it's something else for sure...
 

IDIBRONCO

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The only thing cranking an engine over ad nauseum is going to hurt is the starter. The oil will prime and the rest is fine, IMO.
Which leaves the rod knock as a separate issue. Hope it's something else for sure...
I agree with The_Josh_Bear. I've seen starters burn up from extended cranking while trying to start a new engine (stupid 6.2's!). I don't see how there's any way that could be related to a rod knock. I think you should get the results from the current shop and see what they feel about it. Then talk to the rebuilder or the installer shop to see if they'll work with you.
 

IDIBRONCO

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That explains it. I've got you and CDD on Facebook. That's all from here. Mostly because I'm very particular about who I mess with on there. If I don't know someone, I probably won't follow or friend them.
 

1mouse3

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The only thing cranking an engine over ad nauseum is going to hurt is the starter.
I've seen starters burn up from extended cranking while trying to start a new engine (stupid 6.2's!)

Done the same to my starter. My 6.9 got the ip clogged with algae from sitting a long time, so had to crank it till the sun dont shine to get it to start. Then had issues with algae in the tank that clogged filters and cased starting issues, also had leaks cleaing the lines. By the time all that was done there was not much life left on the start, it was replaced at some point. Its been 6k mile since all that was sorted out and engine will still keep going.
 

hacked89

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X3 on what Chill&idibronco said- look to the warranty of work on the builder. You can crank all day. Cook the starter, but it primes. Doesn't need to be running to lubricate. Turbo first start you prefill with oil and spin it by hand, dump oil feed to bottle while crank, once it squirts hook it up. Away you go. Assembly **** covers the rest.
 

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