Fuel tank vent & shower head

[Fixnstuff]

^^^^^ +1; remember, between the tank pickups and the fuel filter is the selector valve. No strainer leaves the selector unprotected, and it's neither easy to repair nor cheap to replace.

THAT is very good thinking! Here are my thoughts:

My first thought was to use a good quality stainless steel, shiny or polished appearance stainless steel screen because organic sludge and debris in the tank is less likely to stick to stainless steel. Window screen does not sound good to me, the surface is too rough and likely to catch and hold such debris.

My next thought was: What is the size of the holes in the shower head?
Assuming that someone at Ford determined what size holes would be adequate. Anyone know or can you approximate?

THEN I realized the PURPOSE of the 'shower-head' shape. That is to provide a large surface area of 'screen' in case some of those holes get plugged, that won't create resistance to the amount of fuel that can be pulled through the line. A bigger surface area of the screen is BETTER.

THEREFORE, I think we need to find a better option for a screen at the end of the hose in this modification. Brass might be as good as stainless, but keeping in mind that if there is water in the bottom of the tank, the two dissimilar metals brass and steel have different electrical potentials and there will be some galvanic action. Without looking it up, I think that copper and zinc (brass) ions will be removed from the brass which will do no harm to the fuel but a brass or copper screen could deteriorate prematurely. Possibly collect some corrosion as well.

For me, I think STAINLESS STEEL or nickel or chrome plated brass?

NOW, to search for some ready-made item in stainless steel that can be easily converted to a fuel tank screen modification.

Something like the nozzle of an old plant watering can. In fact I do recall seeing nozzles like that, about 3 to 4 inches in diameter with flat circular stainless or plated brass with lots of small holes but I can't remember what it was exactly.

I'll be looking for something that will work well and if I find it I'll post it here

 

[Fixnstuff]

What you can do is "open up" the vent so more air quickly escapes when refueling the tanks. Look into the fill line.See the inner metal tube.. Thats where the fuel fills the tank from. Now ALL the displaced air MUST escape the tank somehow. Well its supposed to escape thru a TINY slot near the top of the inner tube. You want to open that vent hole. Might use a big screwdriver and hammer. No need to make it pretty.

I was hoping to find THE EASIEST WAY to remedy this problem, even if temporary because I have some chronic pain issues and it's difficult to get under the truck to do work. More difficult to get up off the ground again and the wet winter weather here is not very inviting. I will do it when it's really important work but waiting for consistent better weather to arrive is preferred.

Some days ago I went to fill up at night during hnigh winds and very cold wind chill factors. I was not dressed for the cold and it took about 5 minutes to pump 3 gallons! I GAVE UP, went in to the station and got a refund, telling them I'd be back when the weather got better.

What exactly causes this problem? So far, I see that a stuck roll-over valve could cause it OR a deteriorated/ collapsed vent hose? Or possibly many years of wasp or hornet nests were made in there?

I remember hearing a vacuum pull air into one of my tanks when I removed the cap which must indicate a plugged vent line. At other times I haven't heard that.

I would like to add one more potential cause: A DEFECTIVE Pump Nozzle at the diesel pump. TRY USING A DIFFERENT PUMP.

I went back to that same station 2 days later, used a different pump and I didn't have any problem. I didn't pump at full flow but I increased it to as high as 3/4 flow and not once did the trigger kick back. I believe I could have pumped at full flow but I was in no mood to have that trigger kick back even once (bad memories) so 3/4 flow was just fine. I don't think I have ever had a problem at THAT pump but at the other pump I think I recall having had that problem before.

One final question that may or may not be relevant: Does diesel fuel foam up more during COLD weather? Like any temperature below freezing? It seems like I have observed that before.

 

[Fixnstuff]

NOZZLES for a screen:

This fountain spray nozzle is getting very close. Keep clicking on the image to show different views and the specs.
shown I think is the 3/4 inch thread. The larger ones might have larger holes. I would need to know the size of the holes and I would drill MORE small holes into the fitting, especially with the1/2 in. to 1 inch thread models to increase the flow through.
http://aquaticaplus.com/fountainhea...rks-fountain-nozzle-sprinkler-spray-head-pond
If the holes are not too big in the larger fittings those would work too, using a reducer fitting with a hose bib for the rubber fuel line.

I am not suggesting the following fitting because the holes near the center are bigger, but the images better show what both of these fittings look like.
http://aquaticaplus.com/fountainhea...shower-head-for-garden-plaza-indoors-outdoors

I will contact this company tonight and ask them a couple of questions, ie: size of holes and thickness of the brass where the holes are located. In my estimation the fior the 3/4 threaded nozzle start at just under 1/8 inch near the center and get smaller toward the edge, probably > 1/16 inch and they will probably need to be bored out to be equivalent to the OEM factory shower head.

NOTE: The hyperlink on that first web page for "more Information" leads to the following listing at Amazon.com. This shows either the 1/2 inch thread or the 3/4 inch thread size nozzle size which is $9.99. Based on the image I estimate the diameter of the nozzle across the top, for the 3/4 inch size to be about 1-3/4 inches (44.45 mm.). That is probably the one I would select if I choose these. The larger ones are too expensive for me. More holes can be drilled or the holes made larger if needed.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR6KD2A?tag=totalmanipula-20&th=1

Edit to ADD: ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE: The female threads on those fountain nozzles are FNPT, or NPTF (same thing) The letter 'F' means 'Female'. THE DIFFERENCE:

NPT threads

are for mechanical or low-pressure air or fluid applications and require the use of sealing compounds like Teflon tape, to provide the seal.
When the application is more critical, and the sealing compound may fail due to high heat or pressure, NPTF Dryseal threads are used. This mechanical seal is produced by the mating and slight crushing of the threads when a wrench is applied to tighten the fittings.

The major and minor diameters of both threads differ slightly. With NPT threads, after a wrench is applied, slight spaces at the major and minor diameters may exist that would allow the assembly to leak and therefore a sealing compound is used to fill any gaps. On the other hand, NPTF threads are designed to ensure that sufficient crushing of the entire thread form will take place to produce a mechanical seal.

Deleted one paragraph.

So far it SEEMS that a standard Male NPT (National Pipe Thread Taper) fitting will fit into and mechanically crush the female threads to seal Major and Miner gaps in the thread without using a thread sealer.

If that is true then I don't have to search for a special pipe thread. Male NPT should be the correct thread.

For this application it doesn't matter if it has microscopic leaks in the threads anyway since fluid pressure is not a factor. It just needs to be tight enough to stay together.

THAT makes things a LOT easier because there seems to be no such thing as a MALE NPTF thread. It refers only to the Female NPTF or FNPT


MEANWHILE, I'll be looking on the side for something potentially better to use than these fountain nozzles although I really like the looks of these and I thought of putting a swivel fitting on the end to let the nozzle roll a little bit - like when going around corners really fast (uh huh... I never go really fast especially around corners unless I screw up)

 

[Fixnstuff]

showerhead delete.

snip<

Do you remember the ID size of that rubber fuel line, towcat ?
To help in my search for a fitting that will work with the linked fountain nozzle that I posted.

THANKS in advance.

 

[rwk]

All NPT pipe threads seal by crushing, interference fit. NPTF just does it with less threads, used in shorter spaces used when you dont have enough room for a complete NPT tap. In the old days before pipe sealants they used red lead on pipe fittings, it is a lubricant, the lubricant is used to reduce friction so that the interference is accomplished without tread seizing/failure and then leaks, hence the use of teflon sealants as a lubricant, not sure about teflon as a sealant, kinda sounds counterproductive, should use it with care in aluminium casting and weaker materials, teflon will allow so much reduction in torque you can overtighten and break casting and threads, generally, you don't use sealants in plastic NPT threads, the thread deforms and flex's enough to seal.

 

[chillman88]

Guys y'all can get as fancy you want but mine is going to be simple. Figured it out last night grabbing a couple fittings for a different project.

Rubber hose from the sender.

Buy a 3/8 barbed coupler and cut it in half. 1/2 in each tank in the bottom of the hose.

Then I'm just going to clamp these on the end I shove the barb into. The hose barb will just give a little weight and a solid place to clamp.

You must be registered for see images attach

I should be in less than $15-20 to fix both, and I'll have a strainer still. My local Lowes carries these, I'd assume Home Depot should too.

If you really don't want the rubber hose, I'm sure you could add steel line with a compression fitting and flare the end to clamp these to.

 

[madpogue]

My first thought was to use a good quality stainless steel, shiny or polished appearance stainless steel screen because organic sludge and debris in the tank is less likely to stick to stainless steel. Window screen does not sound good to me, the surface is too rough and likely to catch and hold such debris.

My next thought was: What is the size of the holes in the shower head?
Assuming that someone at Ford determined what size holes would be adequate. Anyone know or can you approximate?

THEN I realized the PURPOSE of the 'shower-head' shape. That is to provide a large surface area of 'screen' in case some of those holes get plugged, that won't create resistance to the amount of fuel that can be pulled through the line. A bigger surface area of the screen is BETTER.

With all this in mind, the first thing I think of is a replacement original showerhead....

 

[Fixnstuff]

The information I posted about the difference in the pipe threads was copied from two of several authoritative websites that I looked at. I pasted the quotes into a text document first, which is why they didn't post here as quotations, - I've just added the quotation code to those on edit and I did no save the source url's to those pages.

ALSO I DELETED the one paragraph comment I made after the quotes replacing it with a new more accurate comment. Please read that again to see the change - regarding Male 'NPT' thread is OK to use.

IS THAT CORRECT?

I've been up all night and too tired to be doing this but I want it to be CORRECT before I sign out of here. I can't think or type any more so I have to stop for now.

 

[Fixnstuff]

With all this in mind, the first thing I think of is a replacement original showerhead....

Hahaha! Good one madpogue !

 

[Fixnstuff]

Guys y'all can get as fancy you want but mine is going to be simple. Figured it out last night grabbing a couple fittings for a different project.

Rubber hose from the sender.

Buy a 3/8 barbed coupler and cut it in half. 1/2 in each tank in the bottom of the hose.

Then I'm just going to clamp these on the end I shove the barb into. The hose barb will just give a little weight and a solid place to clamp.


I should be in less than $15-20 to fix both, and I'll have a strainer still. My local Lowes carries these, I'd assume Home Depot should too.

If you really don't want the rubber hose, I'm sure you could add steel line with a compression fitting and flare the end to clamp these to.

What are those Lint Traps made from. Looks like maybe a very fine (thin) low grade stainless / or nylon? I can't tell from the image but it appears to me to be much too fine (thin) of material even if it's stainless to last very long in a diesel fuel tank. Just the forces of the fuel with some very fine particles being pulled through the screen with it might wear it out before you want it to wear out.

I wouldn't trust it myself although I'd like to have a few of those around for other uses.

Still laughing about madpogue's suggestion.

 

[rwk]

I got my new Ford shower head, hope it last another 20 years! well at least 10!

 

[chillman88]

What are those Lint Traps made from. Looks like maybe a very fine (thin) low grade stainless / or nylon? I can't tell from the image but it appears to me to be much too fine (thin) of material even if it's stainless to last very long in a diesel fuel tank. Just the forces of the fuel with some very fine particles being pulled through the screen with it might wear it out before you want it to wear out.

I wouldn't trust it myself although I'd like to have a few of those around for other uses.

Still laughing about madpogue's suggestion.

I'm not certain, they appeared to be stainless. I doubt they are carbon steel but they didn't appear to be nylon. All I know is I'll do it and forget about it and sleep at night. If my FSV gets plugged again I'll worry about it but until then they'll be "close enough" lol

 

[raydav]

I assume you've been running this for a while so I don't need to worry about not having a strainer on the end? That just looks like a plain hose barb to keep the end from floating right?

I have six vehicles that run. I have gotten rid of all in-tank pumps, shower heads,,,. I have just a piece of hose from the tube to the tank bottom. The hose won't float. Then a filter then a pump. In the case of my PSD I have a second filter after the pump to collect broken pump parts.

 

[catbird7]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[79jasper]

If not going stock or just a hose, another great option is the walbro mp-12.

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