Fuel Tank selector switch(not motor/valve) question

[Diesel JD]

Hey guys, I recently replaced my fuel tank selector valve/m,otor assy and associated wiring, the front gauge works and I have verified the correct voltage to teh appropriate prongs and no others. However, when I flip the dash mounted switch, nothing happens, the gauge changes not at all, and the polarity to the valve motor does not reverse as it should. Now I did replace the Ford valve with an Echelin universal unit from NAPA, and Echelin specifies that an always on dual position switch should be used, so I guess I have a couple of questions 1) how far do I have to take teh dash apart to work on the dash mounted switch, and 2) How can I confirm that it is in fact the switcha dn/or associated wiring,a nd not a break in the wiring somewhere between the valve and the switch and 3) Can I just replace it with any good 2 position switch from teh hardware store...or is there an even simpler solution...is there a fuse I can check which controls the switch(not teh valve and gauges cause they work). Thanks,
J.D.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

This is one of the many reasons that my tank selectors are manual and always will be.

I have been through all this mess before.

I know that ain't much help for your situation; but, if you can trade in your new selector, good advice is to replace with a manual unit.

 

[Diesel JD]

I'd rather not change anything major, just get it to work. I agree that the manual selector would be better, but I'll live with the electrical for now. Anyone else?

 

[Diesel JD]

Someone? Anyone? BTT

 

[sle2115]

Wish I could help, but I have never worked on the switch, been a long time on the valve itself.

 

[OkieGringo]

The panel that holds the switch pops out AFTER the other side of the has been removed. You'll have to pull the headlight knob and the windshield washer knob also. Once you have the switch out use a DVOM to check the continuity in each position to see if the switch is good. Get a long piece of wire (with alligator clips) and check the continuity on each wire to the valve.

I need to replace my valve also. What is that part # from NAPA? OkieG

 

[Agnem]

If you've already verified that the polarity to pins 1 and 2 on the valve motor do not reverse, then you know your dash switch is bad. The valve motor handles the tank gauge wiring, so unless the valve switches (which it obviously isn't) there will be no changes in gauge readings.

 

[Diesel JD]

Mel, Okie, thanks, this sounds like a much tougher job than I thought though. The whole dash has to come apart to get at that one stupid switch? I have confirmed voltage to the motor and no switch in polarity, so my thinking was it had to be the switch. I just wanted to see if I was on the right track. Okie, teh valve from NAPA is a universal part, I got it cheap, a good friend of mine runs that NAPA and gave me the garage price. If you do this though, you'll need to get the optional adapter that fits into it. It is a 5 wire plug just like Ford's and works well with their system, but you'll wanta good Ford electrical schematic, and the NAPA instructions to make it happen. I got in over my head with it and a mechanic friend of mine and I got the gauge and wiring working. The tanks were both very close to emty when we workedon them and the rear sender didn't work so I couldn't tell much about whether it switched liek it was supposed to or not,
J.D.

 

[Diesel JD]

Well, I found I had to get teh switch from Ford, 4 terminal, always on...not real cheap, but not terrible either. Now it looks like on an 86, that the plate that covers the AC and radio is all that has to come out to get at that switch, in fact I seem to remember that from the radio install. I know Baja said his was harder to get at, but that's an 87 and I know that was different. Well if anyone knows, let me hear it, thanks,
J.D.