Fuel Tank Leak (best repair?)

HammerDown

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Well, it appears my rear Fuel Tank has a slight leak where the rear support strap makes contact with the upper outer corner.
(not so bad the Fuel it hits the ground...more of a slight weep)
For sure it's NOT the Sender O-Ring or related connections...that area is bone dry.

So, if I drop the Tank what's my best way to fix what may be a small wear/rub hole?
JB-Weld sandwiched between a sheet-metal patch or ???
Is an 'EXACT' replacement Tank even available for my 1988 F250 Super Cab?
Local Salvage yards are not an option...they scrap vehicles this old.
Thanks for any feedback.
 

sjwelds

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MIG weld a patch, or find someone who can. Welded many diesel tanks over the years. Never been an issue.
 

catbird7

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Advice from a fellow PA native, "replace with plastic tank".
 

HammerDown

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With welding or brazing...diesel fumes won't go BOOM???
Not sure how much a shop would cost to weld the hole (I'll drop the tank) vs the price of a plastic tank and it it a 'direct' replacement? Who sells them, how much?
 

Trevtron

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They're about a $120 for a steel one and new diesel sending units are available on eBay now. I just replaced both of mine with Spectra brand ones, looked like the oem one side by side.
 

chris142

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We fill them with co2 and solder a patch over the crack or hole.
 

icanfixall

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Fill a tank with any inert gas. I just did this with my 1937 Cord gas tank I needed to use a flame on. I purchased 3 lbs of dry ice. Then put 3 or 4 gallons of water in the tank. Then roke up the dry ice to fit the fill tube. Added till CO2 came out fill tube. No boomb or flame issue. dry ice is CO2. Its cheap but be sure to use eye protection and wear gloves. That stuff is dangerously cold. It will burn hands.
 

crash-harris

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I replace rusty tanks as they will only get worse. PITA to clean the rust out of the inside. I've heard plastic ones have a tendency to crack if the truck isn't a pavement pounder only. Everytime I've replaced a tank, I give it a few good coats of primer and enamel paint as a cheap rust preventative.
 

madpogue

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I replace rusty tanks as they will only get worse.
Key words here. We've bought, painted, installed three Spectra tanks as replacements, zero issues. Existing sending unit should be fine; may need to replace the "showerhead" (strainer), another $30-ish on Amazon.
 

laserjock

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Exactly. If you get another 10 years out of a steel tank it may outlast the rest of the truck.
 

HammerDown

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EDIT and ERROR...it's my long FRONT Tank that has the weep, not the rear.
Thanks for the feedback fellas!
Due to busted showerheads I dropped both tanks maybe 4 years ago...zero rust anywhere and inside of the tanks were spotless. (oddly though the underside of the truck is a rusted mess, with both front Cab mounts completely rotted out-heartbreaking to see since I bought her new in 1988)

I however did put a coat of Rustoleum on both Tanks...the only thing I can think is, the one support metal-strap rubber insulator-cushions wore through which allowed the Tank and metal strap to rub and make a little hole.
Due to health issues, not sure how much longer I can keep up with working on this Truck but I could do direct replacement tank as long as it's an EXACT replacement and fit. Also not sure how much a shop would charge to weld the hole.

Wow...so good to know the Fuel Level Sending units are now available as both mine stopped working many years ago (I just fill-up every 110 miles)
Part numbers for front and rear Senders in a 1988...and who's making them?
 

IDIoit

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this all depends on your budget. if you have the coin, replace it.
if you don't have the coin but have the time, I would weld/braze a patch.
if you cant weld or braze, delete it.
I have a single rear 38 gallon tank in mine. cost me about 150 for tank and new straps.
and no fuel switch valve to go bad.
 

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