Fuel pressure gauge

[BrianX128]

So now after installing 3 gauges in all 3 of my trucks I've got two additional gauges I want to put in the idi. I already did voltage, water temp, and oil pressure in everything but I'd like to do fuel pressure and a pyro on the diesel just cause. Pyro is ordered and I've read enough on here to feel comfortable doing that. Outside of drilling and tapping a place to put my sender it's same old ordeal and I already have a nice grommeted hold in the firewall with all my wiring for the other gauges to splice around with.

Fuel pressure however I'm searching and into a void. I'd like to put the gauge in the cab because I have a nice system going where I'm gonna have all 5 gauges under the ash tray and for looks and being able to ocd check my gauges all the time I'd just like it there.

Everything I'm finding that just has a 0-15 psi sweep is a direct mount go where I'd be t'ing off the filter sensor by the schraeder valve, but I can't seem to find a 0-15 with an electrical sender so I can just run a wire into the cab to the gauge. If anyone has some suggestions as to one like this I'm all ears.

Honestly it's a personal preference but I like my electrical gauges a lot better than mechanical. I have a Bosch electrical oil pressure gauge in all 3 trucks and checked them vs a mechanical on the t before I put the factory idiot sender back on and they are all very accurate at warm, cold, idling, whatever. I'm a worry wort so I wasn't a fan of oil into cab, but I've been pleasantly surprised.

 

[MTKirk]

I have an earlier version of this in my truck https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2885-51 Reviews were not great, but; a year later and it's still working fine. I have used it with diesel, biodiesel, and vegetable oil.

I'm sure autometer would be higher quality, but the price is much higher as well.

 

[BrianX128]

Man I just can't understand how these are so much drastically more expensive than an oil pressure gauge for example. That's not too bad there and I'm not opposed to spending some money but youch.

 

[MTKirk]

Man I just can't understand how these are so much drastically more expensive than an oil pressure gauge for example. That's not too bad there and I'm not opposed to spending some money but youch.

I think it's a sensitivity issue, oil pressure gauges go from 0 to 100psi (there abouts). The fuel gauge for our trucks should go from 0 to 15psi, and therefore must be much more sensitive. Also fuel (even diesel) is more corrosive than oil?

 

[BrianX128]

True guess it makes sense. After some more searching last nights I went ahead and ordered it anyways, I need something to put in that last guage slot and I want it to be something useful which fuel pressure is about the last thing I could put on anyways. Pretty sure it's still my original lift pump on the truck and after 118k, might be good to monitor. Curious to see pyro results too. I got a near one mile steep grade climb to work, water temp never goes past 200 on it but I'm flying up it. My truck seems to hate idling on rush hour traffic more than anything, only time I've ever seen 215, but I'm getting way off topic there.

 

[BrianX128]

Anyone remember what size port is on the side of the fuel filter housing? I was gonna pick up the male to male pipe and a T on my way home to put this thing in tonight and of course drove something else and can't find the size after some searching.

I have some bushing adapters at home, summit doesn't list the size of the sending unit either but I'd assume it's 1/8 or 1/4 and I definitely have both of those adapters to various thread sizes. Just gotta grab the correct other two components.

 

[gandalf]

If I remember correctly, and that is always open to question, that fitting is 1/8th NPT. Somebody will be here shortly to either confirm that or call me on it.

I'll attach a picture of what I had/did. I had this setup briefly to confirm that my electric fuel pump was doing what it should. The gauge I had was a real POS, and soon clouded up inside. But the setup was good, for under the hood.

 

[79jasper]

Honestly since you're running the gauge, I would just do away with the restriction sensor.


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[BDCarrillo]

Honestly since you're running the gauge, I would just do away with the restriction sensor.


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I kindly disagree... the IP will still run at a fraction of a PSI, but if the IP is drawing more than is being supplied there is a vacuum, which trips the factory sensor. That tiny gap between a gauge showing 0 and .1 may not be discernable.

Just my thoughts on it... but an owner that's well aware of that potential issue could do without the factory sensor.

 

[79jasper]

True, but why would you ever let your fuel pressure get that low?

Say you get bad fuel. Let's say water and algae in it. Neither of the sensors will have prevented anything. Already gonna be up chit Creek.
I use to drain my filter religiously, only got water the first couple times, and it was a tiny amount.
Far as it being restricted, you'll feel it.

How many people test the WIF Sensor to even see if it's working?
The other thing I have against the restriction sensor is how prone they are to leaking.

And lastly, I thought he was running the gauge into the cab. He would have an eye on it.
Now if was just mounting the gauge under hood, then I would agree with you completely.

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[BrianX128]

Yeah I'm running it into the cab with an electric sending unit to the gauge. Dunno I might try and tee it and it it happens to leak remove it afterwards. Don't want any air intrusion that's for sure. I've honestly with all my electrical sending units still been using the pipe tape despite the directions not too and then running a ground wire from the metal on the sending units that are still exposed right above the taped threads and soldering it there and to the frame. Super easy only takes 5 more minutes and gives my worrying self the assurance that stuff won't leak and that the tape isn't keeping the sending units from grounding properly to the block and causing erratic readings and I can avoid mechanical which I just am too nervous will leak in my cab somehow.

 

[MTKirk]

Yeah I'm running it into the cab with an electric sending unit to the gauge. Dunno I might try and tee it and it it happens to leak remove it afterwards. Don't want any air intrusion that's for sure. I've honestly with all my electrical sending units still been using the pipe tape despite the directions not too and then running a ground wire from the metal on the sending units that are still exposed right above the taped threads and soldering it there and to the frame. Super easy only takes 5 more minutes and gives my worrying self the assurance that stuff won't leak and that the tape isn't keeping the sending units from grounding properly to the block and causing erratic readings and I can avoid mechanical which I just am too nervous will leak in my cab somehow.

I wrap all my electrical sending units with PTFE tape, AND apply PTFE pipe dope over the tape. I check the path to ground with an ohmmeter, and I am able to get resistance down to an ohm or two (the same as without tape). This only has an effect if you don't clean the fittings, or tighten them correctly. Literally millions of houses have plumbing systems grounded through taped and doped plumbing fittings. Why the auto industry thinks this will affect grounding is a mystery to me?

 

[BrianX128]

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Well except for a rats nest of wires and a 1/8 tee that was cracked the **** in half and puked diesel all over my engine... We're in business.

Just gotta get a new tee tomorrow to plug factory stuff back in. Just running with the aftermarket sender for now.

Time to clean some wiring and mount this gauge.

This is somewhat better now..

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[BrianX128]

Took it for a ride tonight, I pretty much always have exactly 4psi. Idling driving whatever. It does move a little when rpms change but always settles right at 4. Seem right?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

How many people test the WIF Sensor to even see if it's working?

put me down as one of those who do,please.