Fuel line relocation?

[jaed_43725]

So I converted to rear only tank. I no longer need the fsv but its still hooked up and all. And I noticed that the fuel line runs on the drivers side, but the pump is on the pass side. So what do I need to do in order to run new fuel line on the pass side and get rid of the drivers side stuff? And is it a good idea to do so since the exhaust also runs over there?

I figure the fuel line crosses the over the exhaust somewhere. Could I use hardline attached to the frame, or is flexible line fine, and what about braided stainless steel line (although its expensive)? I am also planning on converting to an electric pump, although I am not sure where I should put it, either on the frame or in the engine bay. The truck does occasionally go offroad, but nothing to crazy.

 

[FoolhardyIDI]

Other than the cost it should not be a problem as long as you shield the lines from the exhaust heat. Take your time and do it right you should be happy with the results.

 

[franklin2]

I would not put it over there with the exhaust unless you ran it on the outside of the frame. I know it's diesel and not gasoline, but I still would leave it where the factory had it.

 

[jaed_43725]

I would not put it over there with the exhaust unless you ran it on the outside of the frame. I know it's diesel and not gasoline, but I still would leave it where the factory had it.

Do you see any issues with running it on the outside of the frame?

 

[FoolhardyIDI]

Only thing I would see happening is get a better chance of road debris hitting the line on the out side of the frame.

 

[franklin2]

Do you see any issues with running it on the outside of the frame?

I have run them on the outside on other vehicles were headers and dual exhaust were added, and it was really my only choice. But since you already have the stock system on there, I would leave it the way the factory did it. You could take the selector valve out and put a short piece of line in that location. You have the return line to deal with also correct?

 

[jaed_43725]

I have run them on the outside on other vehicles were headers and dual exhaust were added, and it was really my only choice. But since you already have the stock system on there, I would leave it the way the factory did it. You could take the selector valve out and put a short piece of line in that location. You have the return line to deal with also correct?

You make an excellent point. I actually just had to do exactly what you said. The fsv was leaking all over so I had to cut the lines and slip some other line over top. I am going to secure them with zip ties. The only thing the fsv is good for now is an electrical connection. And I had some clear vinyl line to go over the feed line. Which is awesome because now I can see if the fuel is moving. This is what I used: http://www.lifeandhome.com/tube-vinyl.html

The return line was just some fuel line I had laying around. I may in the short future actually get rid of the fsv (thats the plan at least) and put some short pieces of metal line in there so I can use proper clamps and zip tie it to the frame. Or even more awesome would be someway to get a fuel filter in there. I may end up re-running the feed line at least from the tank to the old fsv location and having a nice filter in there.

 

[franklin2]

It's surprising, but some rubber line and a hose clamp seems to work ok over the plastic lines the factory used. The plastic line goes by OD, the rubber line goes by ID, so it slips right over it.

I have used metal line, but I had to take a heat gun and heat the end of the metal line, and then play the heat gun carefully over the plastic line to soften it enough to slip over the metal line. And then I used a very small hose clamp.

They do make little kits to repair these plastic lines, I don't know if it would work and have enough to do what you want or not.

 

[jaed_43725]

It's surprising, but some rubber line and a hose clamp seems to work ok over the plastic lines the factory used. The plastic line goes by OD, the rubber line goes by ID, so it slips right over it.

I have used metal line, but I had to take a heat gun and heat the end of the metal line, and then play the heat gun carefully over the plastic line to soften it enough to slip over the metal line. And then I used a very small hose clamp.

They do make little kits to repair these plastic lines, I don't know if it would work and have enough to do what you want or not.

I put some zip ties on it. Do you think this would hold just fine with what I did?

 

[laserjock]

I have used the zip tie method on other things. It's not really there to seal if the hose is the right size, it's there to keep the hose from backing off. There's no real pressure to speak of so really you are just fighting vibration. A little flare on the end would be nice but not sure how well that works on plastic line.

 

[jaed_43725]

Ya, that hoses that fit over top are very snug. I could only get them on so far. I thought zip ties because you never know.

 

[IDIoit]

i have never had any luck with adapting rubber line to the vynal lines.
they always seem to suck air, no matter how tight i spin the hose clamps.

i went to my local NAPA store, and they sent me home with a double barb fitting.
i dipped the vynal line in hot water to install the barb and now im leak free!
it sucks sucking air!

as this is a diesel, we are less prone to vapor lock.
your exhaust set up will determine if you can run the line on the inside of the passenger frame rail
i have a 3" DP and 4" straight exhaust, no muffler. it does not get that hot due to the volume it flows.
if you follow your fuel lines, they actually run pretty close to the exhaust cross over throught the engine cross member.

running fuel lines on the outside of the frame rail is ok, but like stated debris will accumiluate.
i have ran fuel lines on the outside of the frame on many cars.
if you decide to do this, use metal line. and scure it every 3 feet or so.

if you use rubber line,(which i would advise aginst because rubber will eventually break down and crack) intall some 3/4" conduit on the frame and run the line through there.

the stainless steel braided lines are good, expensive, and if you want it to look clean, you would have to use AN fittings.
just putting a hose clamp on the braided lines SUCK!!! and you will learn why we call those lines "********" because they will draw blood.

 

[franklin2]

What I don't like when using a barb fitting on the nylon lines is the very small port you end up with through the barbed fitting. It probably flows enough fuel, but it sure is a small hole in those barbed fittings.

 

[IDIoit]

What I don't like when using a barb fitting on the nylon lines is the very small port you end up with through the barbed fitting. It probably flows enough fuel, but it sure is a small hole in those barbed fittings.

AGREED! But sometimes it's the easiest fix

 

[nj_m715]

You are going one tank so it's easy enough to run a single supply line up to the motor. I used this:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/ep/fuel_line/3003versatube.php
I unrolled it and fed it in from the hood. I followed the drivers side frame rail from the engine compartment. It comes up next to the brake booster and follows the cowl seal over to the passenger side, hits the fuel filter then finally the ip. I took that route because it seemed like less bending and forming vs following the factory path. Plus my fuel pump is way in the back, right next to the drivers side rear shock so I didn't need to run it to the fctory lift pump.
The aluminum is easy to shape without tools. You can slip 3/8 rubber line over it and clamp it down tight. It's fairly cheap, 1/2 the price of than rubber and should out last the rest of my truck.
So I have about 15" of rubber from my sending unit to my fuel pump, 6" of rubber from my fuel pump to my al. Al along the frame and up into the engine compartment, 12" of rubber into my filter and rubber into the ip. All of it is pretty easy to reach and service accept for the one connection at the sending unit.