Fuel filter Emergency fix

[TygreII]

I was running around last Friday evening when I started to see steam and smell diesel. While it was still running, I popped the hood and looked. I immediately spotted the dreaded Fuel filter heater leak. Being a weekend coming up and no real suppliers for parts for my rig, I decided that I had to do a temporary patch up. Having my truck down waiting for parts is not really an option. A cold week was coming. It had to be fast and good enough to last until the proper parts arrived and decent enough weather to do it outside (no garage).

I first looked for a tap and plug to do the job. There was not one in Rapid City, SD. I know we're not that big of a town, but 4 different hardware stores and nothing to be found. I ordered a kit from Classic Diesel Designs. The premium fuel line return kit. Great looking kit, by the way.. More on that later.

I was over at Ace talking with one of their more experienced guys about what I needed and he suggested a plug. He said that it should last long enough to get the right parts in and have warmer weather at the same time.

I brought my filter (housing?) in and found the right fitting plug to put in it. Forgive me, but I don't remember the size, but only one fits.

The tabs/rim had to be trimmed to fit, but It fit.

There is one problem with this emergency fix. It still dripps a little. We're talking going from a real squirting problem to a drip once a second or two.

 

[NeverHave-I-Ether]

I recommend scrapping the filter housing and upgrading to this:

6.9L 7.3L Ford IDI Diesel PDP Fuel Filter Head

83-94 Ford 6.9L & 7.3L IDI Diesel PDP Fuel Filter Head.

puredieselpower.com

As for your dripping, dry it off and use JB weld as a temporary fix.

 

[TygreII]

Keep in mind that this was a fast emergency fix. With that in mind, my hydraulics teacher (an old farmer) taught me if you are going to jerry rig something, do it right the first time. I set about some small modifications to this.

The problems: 1. It still leaked. 2. The brass was too soft and it was bending all over the place. I couldn't get it tight enough to stop the leak.

The solution: I wanted to fill the center hole with RTV Black, but this thing didn't come apart, so mini cut off tool it is....

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I ran back to the hardware store for the following parts: 10-24 T-pronged nuts, 10-24 x 1-1/4 machine screws, 10-24 locknuts, 1"od fender washers.

I wanted the t pronged nuts to work like the ones originally there, so I chopped the tips down to nubs.

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I put red Locktite on the screw and assembled.
The hole was then filled with black RTV, and the screw/t-nut unit was fed in.
Last came the 2 fender washers and the locknut. I tightened them just enough to snug things up.

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To make sure things set up enough, I waited overnight, and installed.

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Temp fix done. It took me longer in the parts store to find the right parts than to put it all together and install it.

The right parts are in the mail and hopefully I will get to do a real fix as soon as it warms up.

 

[captain720]

Seems like JB weld is a bit of a sledge hammer approach. If it's NPT it's gonna drip without some kind of fuel rated goo on it, I would recommend aviation grade permatex form a gasket that stuff is amazing.

 

[TygreII]

Seems like JB weld is a bit of a sledge hammer approach. If it's NPT it's gonna drip without some kind of fuel rated goo on it, I would recommend aviation grade permatex form a gasket that stuff is amazing.

The CDD kit I got has a tap and plug. I going with that and soldering the plug in. I don't see a need to take the plug back out.