Front transfer case lube?

[fields_mj]

Okay, not only is this my first diesel, this is also my first 4x4. I finally locked the hubs in a couple of weeks ago when I was out cutting a load of fire wood. I noticed a slight growl. So this morning, I pulled the fill plug and I can barely reach the lube with my index finger, so obviously I need to add some. What concerned me more was the consistency of the lube that was in there. It was like a cream. I expected more of an oil. This stuff was a dark brown color, and was like a mix between grease and oil. It wasn't foamy or gritty or anything.

Should I try to flush it all out with something? If so, how do I flush it, and what do I use to flush it with? The only thing I can think of is to try to flush it with diesel fuel, but then how do I get the fuel, or what ever solvent, out of the transfer case?

Also, any recommendations on exactly what to put back in when I'm done? I know my manual recommends something, but I haven't looked at that yet. No biggie there.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[typ4]

It uses 90w gear oil. buy a suction gun and suck out all you can and refill it. I would run with the hubs in but not the transfer case to warm it up to make it easier to suck out.

Oh and it is called the front differential.

 

[FordGuy100]

Yeah, its not going to be thin oil, like motor oil. Gear oil is way thick.

 

[Slade]

Creamy gear oil means water.

 

[fields_mj]

Thanks guys! Should I be able to buy one of these suction guns at any auto parts store, or is it a special tool that I will have to order?


Thanks again,
Mark

 

[Mat J]

walmart sells a pump for outboard gear oil for about 15 found in the oil section, if you get a hose to fit on the end and stick into the diff, it will work out good.

 

[sassyrel]

and as said, if that oil is creamy colored, water got in there sometime. you can change it, but if water got in,that means there is a seal leaking, or starting to. which means, at some point, you need to do a FULL front end tear down--to replace the two inner axle seals. set aside at least one whole day, and maybe more,depending on how stubborn the pieces are, coming apart. lots of fun!!!!!!!

 

[fields_mj]

Shouldn't be too bad. Just had most of it tore down a few weeks ago when the wheel bearings and ball joints were changed out. The last owners lived at the end of a dirt (sand) road in northern Florida. They said that when it rained, it was not uncommon to have a couple of feet of water covering the road. I kind of figured that the seals wouldn't be in the best of shape when I heard that. I'll clean it out, and refill it, then keep an eye on it and see what happens. If at all possible the seals will have to wait until next year (I'm out of vehicle cash). It's rare that I need four wheel drive (but I do need it a few times a year) so if it will maintain the oil level, I don't see any reason that it shouldn't still hold out for quite a while. Especially since there's only one creek that would be up high enough to get water up to those seals, and then only after a decent rain.

 

[RLDSL]

Having water in there doesn't have to mean bad seals. When I worked at a Jeep dealership we'd get lots of those on brand new ones and it would be from guys going submarine riding ( deeper than the axle tube vent where it would suck it full of water) or from whomping the thing into deep water really hard and fast continually where the pressure would force water past the seals.

Granted, if the age of the seals is unknown, they deserve looking at. If it's really nasty in there , like any mud residue, flush with denatured alcohol.It evaporates and will not leave a residue

 

[fields_mj]

SWEET!!! Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought about the vent hole. I know that they previous owners had it in some pretty deep water several times. Not because they were out playing (older couple), but that's just how bad their road got sometimes. They did comment that they truck never let them down, even with water half way up the doors. It always got them out, and always got them back home again.

With that being said, maybe it would be a realy good idea for me to check the rear transfer case too. I only checked the front because of the growling noise. It's not very loud , but I can here it when I put it in 4 wheel drive. If the radio were on at all, it would be hard to hear. Never noticed any problems with the rear end, but it still wouldn't hurt to check. Heck I might as well check the trasmission while I'm at it too just so that I can say that I checked all the fluids.

Thanks again guys!

Mark

 

[RLDSL]

Also check the axle tube vent, there should be a hose on it going up to somewhere high on the frame to prevent water from entering unless you really get into deep water. inspect that hose for cracks or to see if it is even still there. and make sure the vent isn't clogged with mud. Some nasty things can start happening if the vent is clogged

 

[fields_mj]

walmart sells a pump for outboard gear oil for about 15 found in the oil section, if you get a hose to fit on the end and stick into the diff, it will work out good.

You obviously have a better walmart than I do. The only thing close that they had was either a bulb style hand pump, and a small bilge pump. I bought the bilge pump, but it won't work for this application. I have another application at the house that I'm going to use it for. I'll have to try Tractor Supply, and see if they have anything. From there it's down to autozone, where my odds are probably going to go down hill quickly.

 

[hesutton]

Also check the axle tube vent, there should be a hose on it going up to somewhere high on the frame to prevent water from entering unless you really get into deep water. inspect that hose for cracks or to see if it is even still there. and make sure the vent isn't clogged with mud. Some nasty things can start happening if the vent is clogged

That was my thinking as well. Those vent tubes are often neglected and a common source of water cotamination in the axles. I mounted mine on the top of driver's side frame rail with a little capped vent to keep it out of road and off road water and keep the bugs from making a home there. Like the one pictured below. That is on the end of my air tank purge valve.

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Heath

 

[fields_mj]

Well, mine is the drivers side seals. I picked up a suction gun at TSC ($12) after work, and emptied the TC as best I could. I added a pint of alcohol, locked the hubs in, and drove over to the neighbors and back. Pumped it out again. It was all full of water and sand. I put 2 quarts of alcohol in and went back and forth in the drive a few times. The gears didn't like it much, so I stopped. I figured I had flushed enough out that there was no longer any lube on the gears, so I unlocked the hubs, and pumped it out again. Filled it up with some cheap 85w90 gear oil with the thought that if it held, I would run it a few weeks that way, and then pump it out again and if the lube looked decent, I'd put some better stuff back in. Well, no dice. While I was tightening the filler plug I noticed a drip from the back side. I slid under the driver side door and it was running down from the drivers side seal. Sooooo, I'll give my mechanic a call tomorrow and see when I can get it in. I'll have him pull the cover too and actually clean it all out to make sure that all the sand and grit is out. Before I take it in, I'll check the rear and the trany as well.

Thanks for the help guys!
Mark

 

[jactoy4x4]

Its going to cost you a pretty penny to have this done.

If your mechanically inclined its a pain, but simple to do.

Your truck is a 250. so its gonna be TTB. Meaning there is no differential cover to just "pull off and spray the gears off."

The hubs, bearings, spindles, and shafts must come out, leaf springs unbolted, and one side dropped down eoungh to unbolt the 3rd member and drop it out.
Then the new seal can be pressed out and new back in.

My advice, if anything too serious is messed up in that dana 50 TTB setup. Rip it all out and put a dana 60 straight axle in it.