Front camber adjustment

[kc0stp]

Front camber adjustment & washer hose

This may be a stupid question but, is there anyway to adjust the negative camber on the split front axle? Mines currently got probbly -3 to -5 camber (Ill check when theres light out...) but a quick glance under didnt show anything obvious.

Also when I got this truck the washer fluid bottle was empty so I filled it up tonight and went to test them only to be greated by a giant puddle of washer fluid under the truck, traced the washer nozzle hose (lot bigger then Im used to and I work on school busses...) and it dead ended at the wiper motor not plugged into anything however I didnt see where it should plug in either...

 

[rjjp]

Yes, bushings are used to adjust camber and caster.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Actually, camber is adjusted with an upper ball joint bushing, minimal caster adjustment is included with the bushing. Although, there are caster bushings available for the radius arms.

I just got done doing radius, and axle pivot bushings. My camber improved a lot, with jsut the bushings. Worn ball joints are also a major factor in neg camber.
If you've ever backed one of these trucks into a garage, then went out and looked at the wheels, it's amazing how much camber is affected jsut by reversing.

 

[riotwarrior]

See that nozzle/s on the cowl at the base of the windshield...that thar is where that big washer hose is supposed to plug into..on 92 up there is special plastic lines and a T on the LH drivers squirter...so not sure what you have...91 down has a single squirter and big hose! Thus you may be pulling the cowl cover to sort this ***** out!

 

[rjjp]

Actually, camber is adjusted with an upper ball joint bushing, minimal caster adjustment is included with the bushing. Although, there are caster bushings available for the radius arms.

I just got done doing radius, and axle pivot bushings. My camber improved a lot, with jsut the bushings. Worn ball joints are also a major factor in neg camber.
If you've ever backed one of these trucks into a garage, then went out and looked at the wheels, it's amazing how much camber is affected jsut by reversing.

He doesn't have radius arms, therefore it's all in the bushing.

 

[Agnem]

The bushings are also reversable, so a 1 degree bushing will give you + or - 1 depending on how you install it.

 

[Black dawg]

seems like the bushings are only good for about 2.5 to 3.0* of correction. Might just look into new springs.

 

[MUDKICKR]

was your reading .3 or 3? three degrees is a lot, like your frt springs are sagging 2 1/2 inches. if its .3 then its just a matter of replacing or turning your camber bushings. the camber bushings are located in the upper part of the axle, where the ball joint bolts to the axle. when you bolt the upper ball joint down, you are pushing the camber bushing into the axle. i know it might cost more for your alignment, but its better to just have them replaced/adjusted when the alignment is being done.

 

[kc0stp]

Actually, camber is adjusted with an upper ball joint bushing, minimal caster adjustment is included with the bushing. Although, there are caster bushings available for the radius arms.

I just got done doing radius, and axle pivot bushings. My camber improved a lot, with jsut the bushings. Worn ball joints are also a major factor in neg camber.
If you've ever backed one of these trucks into a garage, then went out and looked at the wheels, it's amazing how much camber is affected jsut by reversing.

Hmm so reverse adds neg camber to these trucks? That may help explain the huge amounts my truck seems to have everytime I look (makes the race car jealous actully) as the only time Ive looked is when I backed it in as thats my perfered method of parking. The -3 camber is just a guesstimate from eyeballing it (definatly not -0.3) as I havnt gotten around to putting a gauge on it yet.

Found the attachment point for the washer fluid hose (91 with single squirter and big hose) now I just get to see if I can manuver it on without taking off the wiper motor and/or cowl

And one more unrelated question, while adjusting the rear brakes this afternoon I started it up and backed it up a few feet to get it off the chocks (was a non existant parking brake and iffy brakes so was a JIC) afterwards I glance under the hood and notice that my fuel filter housing has a slight leak from what appears to be a sensor on the back right of the housing (diagnol from schrader valve) but yet has started flawlessly everytime with no evidence of air in the fuel. Any ideas on possible fix? (or even how to take the dang thing off so I can look at it...)