6.9 idi lacks low end torque/power

kagefighter

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This is going to be an absolute novel of a post but I've done a fair amount and I'm at a loss.

I bought a low mileage (75,000 miles according to seller) 86 f350 with a 6.9idi banks turbo (nonwaste gated) c6 rear wheel drive dually. When I bought the truck I immediately noticed it didnt feel to have nearly as much torque in the low end (1500 rpm and under) as my 88 f250 with a 7.3 and a zf5. Both trucks have the same rear diff ratio (3.55). I figured it was just the c6 and a torque converter that just didn't have a low enough stall speed and moved on. Otherwise the truck ran super smooth, turbo produced boost like expected (about 9 lbs wot), c6 shifted as expected.

As I owned the 6.9 truck I noticed a few things, it didn't start as quickly as my 7.3, it would blow a notable cloud of white smoke at start up, when towing or under heavy throttle while driving unloaded there was a noticable but not obnoxious amount of black/grey smoke from the tailpipe, and the fan clutch would come on fairly frequently on the highway and always corresponded to the dash temp gauge climbing to the right side of the 'M'.

My glow plug controller was short cycling. Even on a cold day it was on for only 1-2 seconds. I decided I needed to replace my glow plugs and glow plug controller. Ended up getting motorcraft plugs and a "solid state 6.9 controller" from accurate diesel.com. The glow plug controller turned out to be a disappointment but the truck is substantially improved and starts fairly quickly with less white smoke.

With the cooling system, I started by having it coolant system flushed and coolant changed. Didn't fix the frequent fan clutch engagement/temps creeping up problem. Then replaced the thermostat with a motorcraft thermostat. Seemed better but still having the fan kick on more than it should (this always happened unloaded on the expressway at speed). Developed a radiator leak. Replaced the radiator, another motorcraft thermostat, fan clutch. Problem was substantially better but still had a tendency to want to run hot if I pushed it at all on the highway and still felt weak in the low end.

Next I got a DTI 3300 timing setup. Engine was timed at like 6 BTDC @2000 adjusted to 8.5 BTDC @ 2000rpm. Sounded more rattly but did not honestly make a significant change in performance. Didn't change anything with the running temperature. Black smoke under load interestingly seemed a little LESS noticeable but was still present under heavy load.

never liked the C6 I decided maybe the heat from the transmission is setting this fan clutch off and just adding heat to the system. Ended up doing a ZF5 swap which went well but the turbo piping was a PITA because I had the older banks with a driver side up pipe.

The fan clutch hasn't kicked on since the swap but it's been colder out and I haven't been towing so maybe it's better, maybe not.

At this point I feel like I can pretty directly compare these 2 trucks I own. The 6.9 with the banks feels substantially weaker under 1700 RPM than the NA 7.3. This is not how I drive normally but as an example, with the 7.3 I can easily start from a stop without adding any throttle in second gear. If I do the same thing with the 6.9 it feels like it might stall. Also just in general the 7.3 feels very peppy in the low end and the 6.9 feels like a dog until the turbo starts to spool.

One last thing I did was delete the banks air filter/ intake hat combo for a more free flowing air intake. That made the engine much more responsive but it remains "weak" in the low end. I am also going to rework my up pipe to make it more efficient at some point.

What do you guys think?

At this point I feel like it's got to be a worn out engine even though it's supposed to be lower miles, worn injector/IP, fuel turned up too much?, or maybe this is the way a turbo'ed IDI is supposed to feel?
 

kagefighter

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I have a parts truck with 7.3 on it. The truck apparently ran well before I bought it though I never heard it run as it was partially taken apart. Maybe I will pull that pump and injectors and install them on the 6.9 to see if it makes a difference? Where are people sourcing the copper o-rings if your not buying new injectors? I presume you should not use the old ones.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Just going over the basics, I'd be checking:

Fuel pressure: needs ~5psi throughout RPM range
Timing: usually runs better around 6* BTDC (8* ish is fine, but the turbos usually run a little better at 6, though every engine is different.)
Injectors: you can pop-test the injectors if you have the equipment, which would be a good idea(do the donor engine, too, and mix and match the closest 8). You want them to be within 50psi of each other to be pop-matched.
IP: Not much us normal folk can do to test an IP, but you can swap them out since you have a spare. Shoot you can swap them from truck to truck for a real fun experiment!
Compression: the International spec is for all cylinders to be within 20% from what I read here. I personally have a low cylinder and have similar issues as you do, lacking low end grunt and some startup smoke. But once she's over 2000 rpm's there's no holding back! Decent grunt under that but much better than it was N/A. Charge-air cooling helped with that MUCH more than I ever would have guessed. I still don't understand it, but it's amazing.
 

IDIBRONCO

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These engines can operate at 220*-230* all day long and not suffer any damage. That said, how "hot" is "to the right of the M"?. Is it 200* or is it 240*? This is why an aftermarket gauge is essential for keeping an eye on coolant temps. The factory gauges aren't accurate at all and can vary in reading while driving down the road with no change at all to coolant temperature.
 

Cubey

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Where are people sourcing the copper o-rings if your not buying new injectors? I presume you should not use the old ones.
The copper washers come in the return line kit, with the plastic caps and o-rings for the top of the injectors. It's considered an injector installation kit. RockAuto categorizes it as "fuel injector repair kit".
 

franklin2

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These engines can operate at 220*-230* all day long and not suffer any damage. That said, how "hot" is "to the right of the M"?. Is it 200* or is it 240*? This is why an aftermarket gauge is essential for keeping an eye on coolant temps. The factory gauges aren't accurate at all and can vary in reading while driving down the road with no change at all to coolant temperature.
I 2nd this. You can waste a lot of time and money troubleshooting from the factory gauges.

When I put a real gauge on mine (cheap mechanical oil and temp gauges) I found mine was running hot also. When it hit 240 I could smell the oil burning on the engine. But all I would have to do is pull over and let it sit idling and it would cool off.
 

Cubey

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It's about $30 for a Equus mechanical water temperature gauge, be with the adapter needed included to fit IDIs. Available at O'Reilly and various online stores.

I had it mounted in the RV in an interesting way. Once it almost hit 240 because I forgot and had A/C on while going up a pretty steady grade, on a dirt road. I was able to pull over immediately and let it cool down. Opened the hood and put on the heater full blast.

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IDIBRONCO

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I've used Eqqus gauges in the past and didn't have any trouble except for the ammeter which I had too high of alternator output to use. That wasn't the gauge's fault. Live and learn.
 

kagefighter

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Thanks for all the input. I will post after I check my compression and some of the other things mentioned.
 
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