front brake rotors

dairieman36

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what does it take to get the front break rotors off i need to do my front brakes new calipers rotors and pads and was talking to a guy at work about it and he said the rotors are extremely hard to get off didnt say why so what do you have to do to get them off or was he just blowin smoke thanks in advance4
 

riphip

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4x4 is tough, 4x2 not so bad. Which do you have? I might have a repair section to scan.

Rick
 

tractorman86

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they arent that bad i did mine couple weeks ago. you do it just like a 2x4 really, pull the locking hub and pull the whole thing off then hammer or press the lug studs out and you are done. the hard part is that you have to have the socket to take the wheel nut off. checker usually stocks it or atleast the local one here does.
 

dairieman36

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alright that dont sound that bad that will give me a chance to replace the 2 lug studs the broke last year anyways thanks for the info
 

FordGuy100

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no prob. i'd check for the socket first though.:rotflmao i had a 6-lug front for about a year:rotflmao

No doubt. When I did my wheel bearings (I'm actually going to go out and do them agian today :puke: ) I had to buy a set of 6 wheel nut sockets, cost me like $70 because nobody had one that would fit my truck :mad:
 

dairieman36

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alright i will check for that dont know when i will be able to do it but the pass. side is almost metal to metal so it needs to be done here REAL soon rotors or not
 

CJCJ

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I did the front rotors on my truck last weekend. I found the hardest part was getting the studs back in the rotor. The manual states to line up the splines of the studs and bearing housing(basically impossible). Then use a press(which I don't own) or a sledge and a drift. Well after beating on the studs for quite a while with a sledge and drift I found that on about 2 studs per side ended up being driven in far enough. So I resorted to using 5 washers and torquing down a lug nut to remove the slop. Not the easiest task when you are standing on the rotor. There was still some slop between the rotor and bearing housing. Well as it turns out when you put the wheels back on and torque to the proper ft. lbs., that will suck up any slop that is left.

On a side note the manual states that the inner wheel bearing nut has a pin on it that needs to face outboard and that the washer with the holes in it needs to be placed on this pin. It states that this is for "wheel retention". My passenger side was missing the pin yet the wheel never flew off thank god! lol
Anyways, I errored on the side of safety and was able to buy just the inboard wheel bearing nut for 14.00 at the dealership. Good Luck.
 

dairieman36

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thanks this is very good to know since its not the dd anymore i'll probably wait til this weekend when i put the new windshield in it (finally wont have to look through a bunch of cracks to see what i'm going to hit)
 

Optikalillushun

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if u can follow a shop manual u can do this. its not hard at all, biggest hassle is keeping all the parts in place.

remember persuasion is a big help here ;-)
 

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