Frantz Bypass Oil Filter

icanfixall

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Why isn't every one of us running these filters on our engines. We can run the return line into the chevy block off plate where the mechanical lift pump once sat. Or they offer a self tapping fitting that will enter the oil pan above the oil level for the return. Its simple to reach a supply fitting on the drivers side of the block too. So the filter could be installed somewhere on that side of the engine bay. then the return line run to the lift pump area easily. Changing out the dirty paper is simple too. The way the setup is you let it drain down the return line. Then remove the cap with the paper roll in it. Kinda simple. I plan on installing one of these. I can only see it doing the engine and the oil good. Even if the oil bypass's the paper completely its not going to harm anything.. The catalog has all kinds of neet stuff offered too..
http://www.frantzoil.com/home.html
 

kc0stp

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Keep in mind for that setup youll need 2 filters for our trucks at least if Im reading that site right (8 quarts of oil capcity but you can run 2 filters in parrell to get upto 20quarts) and alot of us are running the Amsoil version, bolt on and longer filter changes then that one for a little bit more (think retail is around $350 or so but Ill have to look)

*edit* Just looked it up, $380 for the amsoil bypass (or $300 wholesale, pm me for details :) )
 
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CDX825

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I'm running a NTZ bypass filter. Picked it up cheap but at the time I was looking at the Frantz setup too.

The frantz filter is a proven one and they do work well! One nice thing about them is you will never have to worry about running out of replacement elements for them. Using one with oil analysis I'm sure you could extend your oil change interval significantly. Even running conventional oil.
 

idiabuse

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been running bypass systems for many years.
Always get IP banned for sharing the info.

If you use a bypass then you take jobs away
from lousy mechanics and that aint fair!




Javier
 

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idiabuse

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Keep in mind for that setup youll need 2 filters for our trucks at least if Im reading that site right (8 quarts of oil capcity but you can run 2 filters in parrell to get upto 20quarts) and alot of us are running the Amsoil version, bolt on and longer filter changes then that one for a little bit more (think retail is around $350 or so but Ill have to look)

*edit* Just looked it up, $380 for the amsoil bypass (or $300 wholesale, pm me for details :) )

In reality you really only need a few fittings the filter head and the filter. For around $80 you can collect all the items needed to add a bypass filter, not no $300 plus dollars.
I did mine for FREE the guy that had the kit told me it was obsolete I said Ya Ya.

Javier
 

91idi

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I have a frants at the house. May mount it on my 86 someday
 

idi_econoline

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Sticking with what I know... a readily-available Baldwin bypass head($35 or so) and B164 filter. Have yet to plumb and install. May end up down on the frame rail, as the engine compartment is what it is...

Worst part of the production is drilling the holes in the frame.
 

Jake_IN

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Hardest part is finding toilet paper that fits nicely. Some rolls are 4 inches long, others are 4.2. Plus the core size can vary some. Also its harder to find the tightly wound sand papery toilet paper that would make your butt hole bleed (but does a good job filtering oil) whenever you used it.
 

91idi

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Hardest part is finding toilet paper that fits nicely. Some rolls are 4 inches long, others are 4.2. Plus the core size can vary some. Also its harder to find the tightly wound sand papery toilet paper that would make your butt hole bleed (but does a good job filtering oil) whenever you used it.
Your school does a great job of leaving the stuff laying around
 

laserjock

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Possibly showing my ignorance here, but for a bypass filter it seems like you would plumb oil from a presure tap somewhere (like you would a turbo oil feed) to a filter head and a return back to the pan or through some other opening (again like a turbo oil return). The engine is the bypass right? That way you aren't feeding all the engine oil through the extra filter just some portion of it. Am I just crazy here or is that how most of the kits are put together?
 

turbo elk

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Possibly showing my ignorance here, but for a bypass filter it seems like you would plumb oil from a presure tap somewhere (like you would a turbo oil feed) to a filter head and a return back to the pan or through some other opening (again like a turbo oil return). The engine is the bypass right? That way you aren't feeding all the engine oil through the extra filter just some portion of it. Am I just crazy here or is that how most of the kits are put together?

I think that's how it works.
 

93IDIT

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Possibly showing my ignorance here, but for a bypass filter it seems like you would plumb oil from a presure tap somewhere (like you would a turbo oil feed) to a filter head and a return back to the pan or through some other opening (again like a turbo oil return). The engine is the bypass right? That way you aren't feeding all the engine oil through the extra filter just some portion of it. Am I just crazy here or is that how most of the kits are put together?

That is the how it works. The system will have a small orifice on the feed side so that only a slow feed of oil will go through the filter. That way it doesn't reduce oil pressure noticably. I think Frantz or the people who use it claim it filters down to 0.5 micron which is much better than most oil filters which filter down to 3 to 5 microns.
I have a frantz setup I've been meaning to install on my 93. I want to use it to filter a couple gallons of WMO for fuel first :D
 
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That is the how it works. The system will have a small orifice on the feed side so that only a slow feed of oil will go through the filter. That way it doesn't reduce oil pressure noticably. I think Frantz or the people who use it claim it filters down to 0.5 micron which is much better than most oil filters which filter down to 3 to 5 microns.

Just remember, talking about micron ratings means nothing unless you also talk about the filter's efficiency at those micron ratings. Heck, a screen door is a .5micron filter; it's just not terribly efficient at it. LOL

Mike
 

PwrSmoke

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Just remember, talking about micron ratings means nothing unless you also talk about the filter's efficiency at those micron ratings. Heck, a screen door is a .5micron filter; it's just not terribly efficient at it. LOL

Mike

The quote of the day. ;Sweet

You can't find an efficiency rating for the Frantz... because there aren't any. It comes empty and you fill it with butt-wipe of varying quality and any efficiency ratings will come from the paper... good or bad. The Frantz was a pretty good setup from it's intro until perhaps the '80s, when better media came to be. Even today, I suppose it's a decent low cost option but it really relies on the paper you install. It's true that the paper can absorb a certain amount of moisture from the oil and even some oxidation residue. That's all good. I only argue the efficiency aspects. Like Mike said, every filter can catch SOME 0.5 micron stuff... might be only 0.1% of the total but some. Heck, I can't imagine how anyone came up with that number since the ISO test equipment I've seen (and I've toured the places where oil filters are built and tested) only can rate down to 3-4 microns.

There are way, way better bypass systems than Frantz. As mentioned, I couldn't find a rated efficiency for the Frantz on the website linked above or anywhere else. One unreadable Blackstone test is all they have there that says I don't know what. Other manufacturers will list efficiency and that's important. If someone can link to some Frantz info, I'll chew on it and either spit it out in disgust or say "yummy!" I know an engineer in the filter biz and I wouldn't be surprised if they have tested a Frantz... so I hit him up for some info and we'll see.

I am running a Racor ABS system, which some of you saw at the last IDI meet last year. It has filter elements that are absolute at 3, 5 or 10 microns (your choice). "Absolute" means it will catch 99 percent of everything that size or larger and the rating is based on a scientific, industry standard test. The elements are similar to the concept the Frantz system uses, i.e. rolled cellulose "paper", but it's special paper that is compressed into a progressive density media.

The best place for a return is one of the special ports in the front of the block for that purpose. They are just below the deck. The canister should include an orifice to control oil flow. For our engines you'd want around 0.040" on the outlet side of the canister.

Finally, don't fall for the schmooze that bypass filtration reduces engine wear in a big way versus a good primary filter and regular oil changes alone. It doesn't. At least not in the short term. It's main value is as an oil life extender and that's where it pays off. With a good bypass, the cleaner oil can stay in service longer because the additive package is not challenged as much and can last longer. Not usual to see OCI 2-4 times longer than standard... and it perfectly safe to do so.

Given similar contamination inputs and operational parameters, the payoff in lower engine wear only comes well into the six figure mileages. That's a payoff that comes mainly for the trucks that are on the road constantly and rack on the miles really fast... like an OTR semi. In other words, the average truck that racks on 2-300K before being retired will have rotted into the ground (or some other major catastrophe has occurred before the investment in the bypass has paid for itself via miles driven. Mainly, you are leaving a great engine for some other guy at the pic-n-pull to pull out of your truck's rusty carcass.

The other time a bypass can pay for itself is a particularly dirty environment. Especially if the truck has marginal air filtration. The intake system is how most of the contamination finds it's way into the crankcase. When that aspect is neglected, wear is increased but if a bypass filter is installed, it helps catch the contaminants before they do too much harm. In that case, it's not so much a case of decreasing wear but preventing MORE wear. I don't have specifics on our engines but generally the amount of wear metal an engine generates in service is quite small. Unless you add a bunch of junk that increases wear... like a few dozen grams of dirt from the cheapass air filter you installed. I have asked for an average engine contaminant generation rate from various industry people and they don't have one. If it's ever been tested, it would be specific to one engine in a particular situation. The only answer I get is "low" with the caveat that "low" only applies to engines with efficient air filtration systems. When asked how much the average oil filter is at the end of an OCi, these same engineers stated they didn't know because it's never been tested. Because they've see a lot of oil filters, I asked for an educated guess and most said 5o% or less. From the specs I've gathered, the average sized car oil filter can hold 16-18 grams. Ours could be nearly double that, more with the PSD filter Some premium (syn) car filters can hold around 30 grams before nearing their bypass limit. If your engine generated 30 grams of wear metal (just over an ounce) in a normal OCI, you'd have a lot more to worry about than how much the oil filter holds.
 

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