Got the flatbed laying on the frame finnaly (still need to plan/make brackets) but ran into a small problem, I had assumed I could just use my stock filler necks and mount them to the bed however when I went to try the best I could get was the filler neck upside down. Am I just missing something obvious or do they make a universal I could adapt to fit?
Flatbed filler necks
- Thread starter kc0stp
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racer30
Full Access Member
YA fuel fillers on a flat bed do cause some problems. I saw one done with exhaust pipe bent to fit up by the cab then two fillers one on top of the other between the cab and flat bed It was a good lookin set up but I'm sure it took some work to get it done. I have seen them done with verry flat fillers on the edge of the bed and they fill so slow it takes twenty mins to fill the tanks. Take some time to work out a set up or you will kick yourself later.
Matrix37495
The Amish Wolfman
I put mine inside the bed facing straight up then made a vent in place of the rollover valve. I can fill as fast as i can cram it in there...
I cut the steel neck right after it tapered down which fit nicely in a 1.5" PVC elbow (and was then epoxied) and the factory hose fit over the PVC and clamped down tight.
I cut the steel neck right after it tapered down which fit nicely in a 1.5" PVC elbow (and was then epoxied) and the factory hose fit over the PVC and clamped down tight.
Ya I plan on gutting my two filler necks..then heating **** outta them and carefully bend them into a sweeping S that allows the one portion to be higher than the other and do the fuel tank vent mod at same time!
You can be rest assured a pictutorial will follow when I do it.
Al
You can be rest assured a pictutorial will follow when I do it.
Al
Beds already got moutning spots for filler necks just the fillers that came with it are for a gas truck (dont they know real trucks dont have spark plugs 
) Looks like Ill either have to widen the current filler necks to accept diesel or modify the ones from my stock bed.
Figuring I go the stock filler route any tips for a fabrication nooblet?
) Looks like Ill either have to widen the current filler necks to accept diesel or modify the ones from my stock bed.Figuring I go the stock filler route any tips for a fabrication nooblet?
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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For the first few months of it's life, my stock filler-necks were routed to the outside-edge of the flat in welded-on brackets.
Even with the tank-vents gutted and wide-open to the atmosphere, and the flat sitting a good bit higher than most, I still had to be extra careful when adding fuel.
As a much better solution, many many years ago, I used the stock filler-necks/caps and re-routed them to the goose-neck hitch area, sort of poking out between the steel flat and the goose-neck plate.
They reside out of sight when the trap-door is closed.
I can fill these with the rapid-flow nozzles at the truck-stops.
It has been a looonnnnnggggg time ago; but, if memory serves, I cut away some of the flexible hose that connects the filler-necks to the tanks.
I only use the factory tanks on really long trips; otherwise, they both always remain FULL in reserve; it is just a whole lot easier to use the big auxilliary as the main tank.
I hate to keep doing this to ya Midnight but couple quick questions... routed to the gooseneck like that could you still fill them with a gooseneck attached? (dont currently have one but dont want to limit myself either). Im new to gooseneck trap doors on flatbeds (only flatbeds Ive played with are ones at work and none of them have gooseneck hitches) so are they all the same size? If not can I get measurments of yours to compare? How does one go about gutting the tank vents? Also my filler necks have a secondary smaller hose inside the main hose, is it actully required or can I just run the larger 2" hose and leave the smaller hose out? (those 2 more to everyone). Dont suppose I can get a picture or 2 as well?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
You "harpoon" the tanks, basically take the rollover valve and stick a right-angle fitting in their place and run large diameter hose to either your fill necks up near the cap or some other place high and dry. Some run vents open to atmosphere, some install aftermarket rollover valves. If you run vents to fill necks, you need non-EFI venting caps, read ones for pre-EPA vehicles. Then for the fill neck itself, you yank the small inner hose out, ream out the opening where the pump nozzle fits as wide as possible, and run just the outside hose (make sure its clamps are goodntite). You can now fill up at the big-truck pumps, which at least in rural areas seem to be more available and open to a later hour than car-diesel pumps. Keep in mind that big-truck pumps even on low flow still move a whole lot of fuel, air needs to able to escape the tanks at the same speed or faster - you'll need 1/2" vent lines at the minimum, preferably larger.
This particular topic has been discussed in detail high and wide, do a search for "harpoon" and you'll find all the relevant info and then some!
This particular topic has been discussed in detail high and wide, do a search for "harpoon" and you'll find all the relevant info and then some!
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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What LCAM already said.
Plus, so far as the goose-neck trap-door area is concerned, I can easily access either front or rear filler-neck with a trailer connected.
There is no certain size for a goose-neck trap-door; mine is huge compared to several I have seen.
I like a lot of territory around a goose-neck hitch, as not all trailers have a standard hitch.
Some have a "bear-trap" hitch, which requires lowering behind the ball, then back the ball into the jaws, then latch the jaws.
Some have "tri-star" triangle plate hitches, though these are about all dead and gone now.
Whatever goose-neck set-up you build will most likely be unique to your own situation.
Plus, so far as the goose-neck trap-door area is concerned, I can easily access either front or rear filler-neck with a trailer connected.
There is no certain size for a goose-neck trap-door; mine is huge compared to several I have seen.
I like a lot of territory around a goose-neck hitch, as not all trailers have a standard hitch.
Some have a "bear-trap" hitch, which requires lowering behind the ball, then back the ball into the jaws, then latch the jaws.
Some have "tri-star" triangle plate hitches, though these are about all dead and gone now.
Whatever goose-neck set-up you build will most likely be unique to your own situation.
