Finally installed my cables, WOW!

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I finally got sick of my brown truck not starting, so I stuck out the -2 degree weather and installed my new set of battery cables. WOW does it start faster!
While I was in there, I moved the small frame ground on the passenger side crossmember from directly under the manifold, to the front side of the crossmember, WOW did that make the job easier to install that bolt! I also noticed oil on the block at the rear of the passenger head seam, as well as at the front of the same head seam. So Im guessing I've got head gaskets going bad.

 

[dakotajeep]

What did you use? ie a bought set or did you make your own? What all did you replace?

Thad

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I used a complete set from custombatterycables.com Cost like $175 fully optioned with covers. I thought it took a while to get them but it was well worth the wait! They are very professionally done. I replaced everything except for the small positive wire running to the starter, which I will do when I replace the stater some day.

My head leakage is really bothering me. But I was already planning on removing heads this spring before I install my turbo.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Yep, I'll agree with Custombatterycables. they're great. I think I gained at least a hunrdred RPM cranking speed with them.

If it makes you feel any better. I ran my 85 for a full year with dribbling head gaskets. Just keep a close eye on um. If you see any drastic changes, then you know your going to have to break down, and do um quick.

 

[Diesel JD]

You sure its the head gaskets and not the valve covers dripping on the heads? I'd just keep an eye on the oil and not worry about it till its turbo time. If it is the head gaskets at least you know you're actually fixing something that needs fixing and not wasting your labor.

 

[icanfixall]

When and if you change out the head gaskets install some 7 inch long ARP head studs. I did and so far they work great. Typ4 has around 10,000 miles on his and a small part of that was at 240 degrees coolant pulling a grade. They are rated at 200,000 psi where the new head bolts are just 153,000psi. I wonder what used head bolts are able to hold up too???

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

We used Caterpillar bolts on my grandpas 83 when I was like 6 or 7 and put atleast 250-300k on it with those in there with no other problems. I'd used the studs for their increased strength, but I dont like how much more difficult it makes head removal in case of a problem. The only thing with the CAT bolts is Im not sure what they should be torqued to.

 

[greythorn3]

can you post apicture of your new cables in the truck i want to see what the connectors are like.. my passside one that leads off to the drivers bnattery just cracked apart tightening it today!! so i am gonan need to do somthing.. u got a part number for them cables too?

Ray

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I'll snatch a pic of them tomorrow for you.

 

[greythorn3]

thank you much nebraskaidi

 

[h2odrx]

We used Caterpillar bolts on my grandpas 83 when I was like 6 or 7 and put atleast 250-300k on it with those in there with no other problems. I'd used the studs for their increased strength, but I dont like how much more difficult it makes head removal in case of a problem. The only thing with the CAT bolts is Im not sure what they should be torqued to.

I would think stock value??

When and if you change out the head gaskets install some 7 inch long ARP head studs. I did and so far they work great. Typ4 has around 10,000 miles on his and a small part of that was at 240 degrees coolant pulling a grade. They are rated at 200,000 psi where the new head bolts are just 153,000psi. I wonder what used head bolts are able to hold up too???

what is the part number to ask for??

 

[f-two-fiddy]

can you post apicture of your new cables in the truck i want to see what the connectors are like.. my passside one that leads off to the drivers bnattery just cracked apart tightening it today!! so i am gonan need to do somthing.. u got a part number for them cables too?

Ray

www.custombatterycables.com

Plenty of good pix on their site

 

[u2slow]

I made my own with welding cable, military connectors, and lugs that take a 3/8" bolt.

 

[greythorn3]

can you post a picture of the military lugs and stuff so i know what your talking about this sounds likea cheap trick, and im CHEAP!

Ray

 

[u2slow]

Military connectors... ~$4 each locally

You must be registered for see images

Crimper (use with hammer and hard surface) ~$30 locally.

You must be registered for see images

Crimp lugs...

You must be registered for see images

I used adhesive-lined heatshrink over each cable end. Before crimping I smeared the lug and cable with copper Penetrox. I used #2/0 and #4/0 cable - the #4/0 for where the cable would see the combined current of both batteries.

I'm against soldering high-current connections. Not only does it tend to burn back the insulation, and wick solder up into the cable, but it also introduces a foreign metal into the connection that offers some minimal impedance. My 1800W inverter manual also voiced the "crimp only" standpoint for its battery connections.