racer30
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Looking Good
Engine Swap Questions
- Thread starter rhkcommander
- Start date
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Not much news, plumbed the fuel system. Had to cut a notch out of an angled 16mm box wrench to get the IP fuel lines swapped.
Took care of the stupid welds the PO used to patch the motor mounts, and then fixed the motor mounts properly. Probably took out a half a cup of welds today. Good thing he didnt clean the cross member before stacking the welds. A chisel, cutoff wheel, and a BFH took care of it quick.
Too tired to do more tonight. Need to swap oil coolers and seal it, resurface the flywheel either myself or pay to. Then install new sachs clutch set and throw it back in.
Do i need to take off the front oil cooler mount too? I know the rear w/ oil filter threads is different but the front looks the same except 1 bolt less maybe?
Took care of the stupid welds the PO used to patch the motor mounts, and then fixed the motor mounts properly. Probably took out a half a cup of welds today. Good thing he didnt clean the cross member before stacking the welds. A chisel, cutoff wheel, and a BFH took care of it quick.
Too tired to do more tonight. Need to swap oil coolers and seal it, resurface the flywheel either myself or pay to. Then install new sachs clutch set and throw it back in.
Do i need to take off the front oil cooler mount too? I know the rear w/ oil filter threads is different but the front looks the same except 1 bolt less maybe?
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Got the oil cooler parts ready to swap, new orings and finally got the old gaskets scraped off.
Tried to press the oil filter end on first but was met with resistance so i need to clean the ends out more i guess. The uhaul oil cooler orings looked new and fine.
I want to reuse the flywheel and no one here can resurface them... I cleaned it with a wire wheel but theres still a few hot spots. The old clutch looks like it was 11" new is 12". Can i just start the engine and very carefully hold emery cloth against the spinning flywheel, holding it with something flat?
Tried to press the oil filter end on first but was met with resistance so i need to clean the ends out more i guess. The uhaul oil cooler orings looked new and fine.
I want to reuse the flywheel and no one here can resurface them... I cleaned it with a wire wheel but theres still a few hot spots. The old clutch looks like it was 11" new is 12". Can i just start the engine and very carefully hold emery cloth against the spinning flywheel, holding it with something flat?
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Oil cooler is mounted after new rings. I made sure there were no burrs/dirt and lubed it up but still had to press it on. Hopefully no leaks!
Also installed the clutch set - flywheel was resurfaced, new bearing installed on it, added grease to bearing, new clutch disk and pressure plate. Blue medium loctite on all the flywheel bolts.
Just need to hose off bell housing, clean and grease the joint on the clutch fork and throw the new throwout bearing on there and bolt it all up. but I gotta get the engine off the stand first, the stand bolts on to where the bell housing goes.. Then attach the turbo oil feed line to the block by the oil filter.
Then I need to bolt on the exhaust y-pipe and downpipe, throw the motor mounts that I fixed up back on, swap over the IP cold advance solenoid stuff and toss it in! Add oil and crank till I get oil coming out the turbo oil feed and then attach it to turbo. Then I should be ready to rumble after I put the radiator support, radiator, head lights, and maybe bumper back on ( I got a front mount hitch but it doesnt fit this truck (too narrow) so I'll probably be ordering some thick square tubing and making cutting/welding it. For a winch
Sounds about right?
Also installed the clutch set - flywheel was resurfaced, new bearing installed on it, added grease to bearing, new clutch disk and pressure plate. Blue medium loctite on all the flywheel bolts.
Just need to hose off bell housing, clean and grease the joint on the clutch fork and throw the new throwout bearing on there and bolt it all up. but I gotta get the engine off the stand first, the stand bolts on to where the bell housing goes.. Then attach the turbo oil feed line to the block by the oil filter.
Then I need to bolt on the exhaust y-pipe and downpipe, throw the motor mounts that I fixed up back on, swap over the IP cold advance solenoid stuff and toss it in! Add oil and crank till I get oil coming out the turbo oil feed and then attach it to turbo. Then I should be ready to rumble after I put the radiator support, radiator, head lights, and maybe bumper back on ( I got a front mount hitch but it doesnt fit this truck (too narrow) so I'll probably be ordering some thick square tubing and making cutting/welding it. For a winch
Sounds about right?
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Ive got the gen lightning electronic lift pump, would it be smarter to uninstall the mech. Lift pump like normal, or leave it and just run a hose with barb fittings in a circle with diesel from mech. output and input.
Or third option: rig some valving system so i can bypass it or use it depending on needs like running waste oil.
Probably will just do option 1 with lift pump in tool box ready to swap in if epump dies but someday i wanna run waste oils so good to think about.
Or third option: rig some valving system so i can bypass it or use it depending on needs like running waste oil.
Probably will just do option 1 with lift pump in tool box ready to swap in if epump dies but someday i wanna run waste oils so good to think about.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Found some mechanical fuel selector valves online.
For the time being i will just run epump. Later i want to reinstall mechanical with a valve before it to swap from either. Along with some others. Im pretty sure the mechanical pump will have to circulate with itself when not being used. I wonder how much power the mechanical lift pumps consume, but theyre definitely better for higher viscosity fuels. Ive heard of too many epumps dying from wmo/wvo
For the time being i will just run epump. Later i want to reinstall mechanical with a valve before it to swap from either. Along with some others. Im pretty sure the mechanical pump will have to circulate with itself when not being used. I wonder how much power the mechanical lift pumps consume, but theyre definitely better for higher viscosity fuels. Ive heard of too many epumps dying from wmo/wvo
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Took her out the maiden voyage after putting the radiator and belts and everything else on.
WOW. So glad I swapped engines - this one didnt vibrate and miss and fight to start. Beautiful.
Didn't see any antifreeze or oil leaks, forgot that the 7.3 used 1/4" return lines so I had a leak at filter head where its return nipple as 3/16 - i just took the old 3/16 hose off the old engine and forced it on the return for now. And i had to tighten ip feed line a little - after that she started right up after I did a pre-start cranking to bleed fuel lines.
I was able to build boost in every gear - 1&2 maybe 2 psi, 3&4 up to 5psi. Definitely limited by fuel. Also spooled up SO MUCH FASTER. And was much louder although that could be thanks to not having welded the exhaust back onto the down pipe lol.
I'll get some pics n vids up soon but I am a very happy man right now. The firewall is flexing though. Next goals are replacing the pwoer steering pump and steering gear with a red head. Theres some slop and that p.steering is tired and leaky.
WOW. So glad I swapped engines - this one didnt vibrate and miss and fight to start. Beautiful.
Didn't see any antifreeze or oil leaks, forgot that the 7.3 used 1/4" return lines so I had a leak at filter head where its return nipple as 3/16 - i just took the old 3/16 hose off the old engine and forced it on the return for now. And i had to tighten ip feed line a little - after that she started right up after I did a pre-start cranking to bleed fuel lines.
I was able to build boost in every gear - 1&2 maybe 2 psi, 3&4 up to 5psi. Definitely limited by fuel. Also spooled up SO MUCH FASTER. And was much louder although that could be thanks to not having welded the exhaust back onto the down pipe lol.
I'll get some pics n vids up soon but I am a very happy man right now. The firewall is flexing though. Next goals are replacing the pwoer steering pump and steering gear with a red head. Theres some slop and that p.steering is tired and leaky.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Oh and eventually i want to incorporate a custom water/**** injection system. Then intercooler.
Sometime i may need electric fans but after ceramic coating all exhaust-pipes the heat was less than the old engine with locked up fan.
Sometime i may need electric fans but after ceramic coating all exhaust-pipes the heat was less than the old engine with locked up fan.
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Video of engine running and turbo with its whistle 
I haven't welded the downpipe to the exhaust yet. So its pretty free-flowing with just 4" intake and downpipe on the other end. I'm sure the ceramic coating helps spool time and boost too
Click to go to photobucket to watch it
I haven't welded the downpipe to the exhaust yet. So its pretty free-flowing with just 4" intake and downpipe on the other end. I'm sure the ceramic coating helps spool time and boost too
Click to go to photobucket to watch it
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