Shawn MacAnanny
Full Access Member
I've spoken with Mel about it i have a bull moose and moose misters, factory turbo only running 7psi and an intercooler. It's a 5 speed, and when i let completely let of the throttle, shift, and place under load (somewhat quickly) i can hear it knock for a half second as though the timing is advanced too far. If i slowly let off the throttle and ease back into it i dont hear the knock. It's nothing like "oh my God she's goin to blow!" knock but i can definitely hear a change is what sounds like advanced timing to me. I can drive easily enough and make it go away it just seems like something that shouldnt be happening.
I have a ferret meter and $80 advance timing meter. I timed the engine before i replaced the IP, it was orginally 3.5 or 4, i set it to 7 and gained 1mpg. This time i installed bull moose and misters with marks lined up, that got me to 4 degrees, so i adjusted it to 7 or 7.5. I drove it just over 300 miles and rechecked it and its around 6 to 6.5. Mel suggested i retard it 2 degrees to see if the knocking goes away when shifting. Which makes sense but 4 degrees seems far retarded. My ferret meter, timing light, and battery are only a month old, i have sanded the line and used aluminum never seize and have perfectly consistent pulse. I do have an electric fuel pump but i have a relief/FP regualtor that keeps it around 6-7psi. I dont have a gauge permenantly installed, its my next step in thinking that maybe the pump stopping calling for fuel closes and rejects more fuel and then my relief regular opens sending fuel back to the tank (it's set for 5psi, my pumps max is 8.7psi) but the "knocking" comes not when i let off, but when i step back into the throttle.
I would think with an IC that you should have to advance timing to compense for the cooler intake charge being introduced. I see here that 9 to 9.5 is ideal, i see from other forums some found 7.5 to be ideal, others found 8.5 to be ideal. So just what should i try to shoot for? At 60mph/2000rpm i see 400-450 egts and 2psi boost.
Can being too retarded cause it to knock too? Theres no noticeable smoke or stumbling when doing this or anything. Idle timing is at 12 degrees. I am using the timing light, programming in 12 degrees and lining up the 0 with the line to the line on the crank for idle, for timing i am reving to 2000rpm by timing light, setting it to 6 or 7 degrees, the line is falling just between that, cant get a direct 90 degree view to the lines, probably 70 degrees but im confident in my reading it and the accuracy of it.
I have a ferret meter and $80 advance timing meter. I timed the engine before i replaced the IP, it was orginally 3.5 or 4, i set it to 7 and gained 1mpg. This time i installed bull moose and misters with marks lined up, that got me to 4 degrees, so i adjusted it to 7 or 7.5. I drove it just over 300 miles and rechecked it and its around 6 to 6.5. Mel suggested i retard it 2 degrees to see if the knocking goes away when shifting. Which makes sense but 4 degrees seems far retarded. My ferret meter, timing light, and battery are only a month old, i have sanded the line and used aluminum never seize and have perfectly consistent pulse. I do have an electric fuel pump but i have a relief/FP regualtor that keeps it around 6-7psi. I dont have a gauge permenantly installed, its my next step in thinking that maybe the pump stopping calling for fuel closes and rejects more fuel and then my relief regular opens sending fuel back to the tank (it's set for 5psi, my pumps max is 8.7psi) but the "knocking" comes not when i let off, but when i step back into the throttle.
I would think with an IC that you should have to advance timing to compense for the cooler intake charge being introduced. I see here that 9 to 9.5 is ideal, i see from other forums some found 7.5 to be ideal, others found 8.5 to be ideal. So just what should i try to shoot for? At 60mph/2000rpm i see 400-450 egts and 2psi boost.
Can being too retarded cause it to knock too? Theres no noticeable smoke or stumbling when doing this or anything. Idle timing is at 12 degrees. I am using the timing light, programming in 12 degrees and lining up the 0 with the line to the line on the crank for idle, for timing i am reving to 2000rpm by timing light, setting it to 6 or 7 degrees, the line is falling just between that, cant get a direct 90 degree view to the lines, probably 70 degrees but im confident in my reading it and the accuracy of it.
