Engine "knocking" When shifting what's correct timing with ferret meter and turbo/IC?

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Well I played around with the truck a little more on the drive home to see how exactly I cold get it to "knock" it seems low rpm flooring it will do it. Like below 1400 rpm and laying into the throttle 100% until the turbo spools it seems to knock. Not bad but it seems like the knock is related to over fueling. Would that make sense? That would explain why when letting off the throttle and stepping back on it it gets a shot of extra fuel and knocks.

I went against everyone's suggestion and advanced from 6 / 6.5 to 8.5/9. It didn't make any of the noise worse. I can make the noise now from idle if I floor the truck again I thin from over fueling?

What is the risk with the knock anyway? If it's not doing it at cruise or under load where it's not being lugged is there really any risk of damage?

 

[jhenegh]

I think you're hearing an engine lug

I can't make mine do it as bad as yours since my truck still guesses its own gears through an E4OD mystery box, but if I'm towing and I drop to 1400-1600 RPM when the converter is locked, I can get a good rattle/crackle/crankshaft-hates-me/low-end-torque/EGT spiking/smoke making noise out of my truck.

I've also got a Bull moose, factory turbo with wicked wheel and an intercooler.



Aside:

Your turbo should spool at 1400rpm. At least 1-3 psi if you've got a load. 1600 on up it oughta be crossing 5psi and better well be sitting on 7 by the time you hit 2k.

Another aside:

I can't believe you're still only set at 7psi and don't have EGT issues. After I installed the moose but before I adjusted my wastegate and added the WW2, I could get into dangerous EGTs with a 6800lb truck running empty. Even if I floored it at 60MPH in 3rd (direct) I could still sail past 1000F before I was going faster than 75-80MPH. Rolling smoke the whole way.

But no more

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Maybe it is lugging then? Haha it would make sense to me that I hear it now with bigger pumps and injectors.

I have a water intercooler setup that is really efficient. There is another thread I have about the install with a video of me lugging it from 45mph@350 egt to 75mph at 1150 egt. Truck is 9klb too. I have temp.gauges on turbo inlet, outlet and engine inlet and I can get engine inlet Temps 10 degrees below turbo in Maybe I increase it one day, but I'm not out for power, more so reliability and fuel ecconomy. I think the extra pressure is just going to strain the head gaskets/bolts. I think I'm going to have Promar build the spare turbo engine I have and they said they do head bolts and any cam I wanted. Then I'd feel more comfortable running higher pressure.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

My turbo spools pretty good with the new up pipes. Even at 2000rpm at 60 letting off throttle and coasting it still make alms 1psi. At 50 on up it stays around 2 psi crusing 3psi at 65mph

https://youtu.be/fV_Esg5MiA0

https://youtu.be/tBrtrX5LrsU

https://youtu.be/xgwEvsz2tvE

 

[sjwelds]

Still think you could go up to AT LEAST 10 psi. Oh and by the way, does your wastegate get it's indicating pressure pre-intercooler? If so you're probably only getting maybe 4-5 psi after the intercooler. I've seen where the guys will hook up the wastegate hose to the intake hat, that way you are controlling the actual boost the engine sees.

but what do I know

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Yeah boost gauge and waste gate teed together from intake hat. I figured therd be a delay pressurizing the intercooler and intake and that'd be the best place to control pressure from

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

It's driving well at 9 degrees. Averaged 15.0mpg with the 6 degrees and the various load testing.

Can the cold advance solenoid be activated for extended periods of time? I am thinking of adding a switch to activate it when cruising or maybe wire it into the cruise control circuit to maximize fuel efficiency under low load.

What are the tell tale signs of timing to far advanced? Will it be obvious? I know you can run more timing at lower loads and cooler intake temps. Maybe I could wore the circuit to say a 3psi pressure switch to activate when the manifold pressure it below 3psi or rather deactivate when the engine is under heavier load

 

[Black dawg]

From your videos, timing sounds too advanced to me. Have you verified the balancer mark?

I like to set timing to where the rattle is consistent at all throttle positions. NA stock fuel rate usually ends up in the 8-9.5 range....turboed and maxed stock pump fuel rate ends up about 5-6.

I have never seen any increase in mpg going beyond the numbers I posted.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

No I have not verified the balancer mark, in the videos the truck is set to 6 degrees

 

[79jasper]

Gonna be burning off glow plug tips.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

So if not by balancer mark than how do you time these engines?

 

[riotwarrior]

So if not by balancer mark than how do you time these engines?

It is by balancer mark.

Could be timing light issues. Some adjustable lights are not as accurate as folks think.

Get timing tape...install it...set lite to 0 read mark on tape...

You are covered 2 ways then

ALSO...are you using the CORRECT timing location? If uncertain pleaze review my timing threads as I have written extensively about timing the IP, the marks, using non advance timing lights and advance timing lights and timing tape.

If uou are accidentially utilizing the incorrect mark you would be 28 degrees advanced....

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Timing light is brand new timed before pump and injectors with no rattle. I have to make it rattle its not there under normal driving or any accelerating
INNOVA 3568 Digital Timing Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_q2sbxbZRQ85M5

 

[riotwarrior]

Timing light is brand new timed before pump and injectors with no rattle. I have to make it rattle its not there under normal driving or any accelerating
INNOVA 3568 Digital Timing Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_q2sbxbZRQ85M5

Just cause it is new does in no way mean it is functioning correctly as anticipated.

Did you time it before you installed new IP amd injectorz? If not then really you are not making a reasonable comparrizon are you?

Sounds like the new parts are the culprit perhaps contact vendor directly and have a long disscussion with them directly on what is happening and your expectations of the situation.

Could it be you are hearing it work correctly for first time, as the old stuff was worn out? I dont know and my phone sucks for listening to video....just thinking outloud...

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Yes I timed before install was at 4 timed to 7.5 gained 1mpg. Initial test drive after install was at 4 still rattle on shift time to 6 5 still there no worse timed to 9 stI'll there no worse. Could it be fuel knock?