Electrical Draw hell

[tknomaj]

It is rare indeed to find a greasy wrench-turning mechanic that can wire worth a durn.

I think some of this is due to customers having absolutely no idea just how much TIME is involved in doing something that to the ignorant looks simple.

It takes patience and lots of time to properly splice/solder/heat-shrink every single electrical connection.

Customers are not willing to pay for this time, hence the down and dirty, twist the wires together and big wads of black tape, or worse yet those so-called "quick-splices", "suitcase connectors", "scotch-loks", or whatever.

If a vehicle starts and can pull itself down the road, most consider it "fixed".

YOU are so Right They think that the REPAIR SHOP is Jack in the Box and everything can be fixed in 20 min and four hours at best it is easy just plug it into your machine and it tells you what to do . simple right

 

[trouble]

thanks- another clue- when i disconnect the fusible links at the starter solenoid- the ones that have the draw in them- the next morning- takes 3 or 4 tries of 20 seconds cranking
the starter to start. batteries full. ????

 

[trouble]

sorry it i didn't communicate well- i found the links at the starter solenoid -that when disconnected- the draw went away. first i relpaced the starter solenoid, not knowing any better. then the link that was the source of the draw powered the trans module (my trans guy calls it a pcm)- so i replaced the pcm... THEN THE DRAW JUMPED to another link. this one - when disconnected, shuts down the ignition.??
thanks- another clue- when i disconnect the fusible links at the starter solenoid- the ones that have the draw in them- the next morning- takes 3 or 4 tries of 20 seconds cranking
the starter to start. batteries full. ????
normaly starts right up....

 

[Michael Fowler]

Don't wish you had come here 2 years ago?

THIS is the best source for reliable information on your IDI.
Now, don't you want to meet some of the guys, and gals? Bowling green isn't THAT far. is it. The Rally is this week end.

 

[trouble]

thanks- will disconnecting the power lead at the alternator- then checking for draw-
be a positive check on the alternator- when i did that , the test light still glowed...
thanks again...

 

[trouble]

Your truck has no pcm and has up to seven fuseable links that attach to starter soleniod have light connected and remove bolt at soleniod and remove fuseable links one at a time then you have jus isolated (found ) the circuit with the problem check wire color and print the first diagram and follow that circuit unplug or disconnect items shown on circuit one at a time until light goes out the problem is either a bad relay/ alternator switch but when removed light will go out if it does not then move flex wiggle wiring loom (two people one watching light and you wiggling flexing loom until the light flickers or goes out that will tell you where to open loom and look for damage (short to ground)
snap-on makes a tester that is fast and easy to use by your self but costs about 250.00 and is not worth money unless you do this all day most mechanics cannot find shorts due to it takes time and the understanding of electrical and most don't that is why people have such bad things to say about electrical/short repairs

thanks- wish me luck- the damn wiring loom wraps up and around and inside and down......

 

[typ4]

It is rare indeed to find a greasy wrench-turning mechanic that can wire worth a durn.

I think some of this is due to customers having absolutely no idea just how much TIME is involved in doing something that to the ignorant looks simple.

It takes patience and lots of time to properly splice/solder/heat-shrink every single electrical connection.

Customers are not willing to pay for this time, hence the down and dirty, twist the wires together and big wads of black tape, or worse yet those so-called "quick-splices", "suitcase connectors", "scotch-loks", or whatever.

If a vehicle starts and can pull itself down the road, most consider it "fixed".

My favorite is house wire nuts on 12v circuits, there is a RV shop that wires trailer plugs this way

HEY,I get greasy and I know how to do electrical. And yes it is time consuming. What is strange is people wouldnt let the auto shop find problems but they pay the auto electric shop T&M to find problems.

 

[Michael Fowler]

You mean, you can't see the electrons?

 

[tknomaj]

look at the first wiring diagram it shows a relay that powers the transmission control module it shuts off power to module when key is turned off unplug relay and see if light goes off if so that is the problem if not locate fuseable link that it is in and let me know

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[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

when i disconnect the fusible links at the starter solenoid- the ones that have the draw in them- the next morning- takes 3 or 4 tries of 20 seconds cranking
the starter to start. batteries full. ????
normaly starts right up....

You surely are re-connecting these fuse-links prior to attempting to start, right ??


Some of those fuse-links are going to have a constant draw on them, depending on which accessories they are feeding.

Do you have a digital voltage meter ??

 

[91f2504x4]

Sounds like you are disconnecting the fusible links that go to the glow plug controller and that is what is causing the long cranking attempts, maybe not but it sure sounds like it.

 

[trouble]

thanks for your support- for a rookie- where is the TECA relay? what does it look like?
i unplugged tcm and short still there..thank you another clue- in the am after 'draw wires' disconnected over night (black w orange stripe-tcm, thick yellow-ignition) hard starting-
with full batteries, 3 times 20 seconds each on the starter before it fires....

 

[trouble]

thank you- no- all is hooked back up before starting in am- and have not disconnected any fusible links yet! ????

 

[trouble]

yes i have a dig voltmeter- btw what does the TECA relay look like and where is it?
thank you
sorry about the 'fusible links' - have not pulled apart any- only disconnect is power lead
at starter module/solenoid at night- the power leads that have the draw in them....

 

[trouble]

ooh boy- this am barely started with full batteries- not crank and crank, but barely turned over- ignition module/switch?