Electric pump only to prime system...

Craig58

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Can someone direct me to the thread that shows a step by step procedure to put in an electric fuel pump powered by a switch that would prime the fuel system for starting and then would be turned off after starting. Want to leave the mechanical pump in place but have issues with air in the filter area that have proved to be a real pain. Thank you
 

gnathv

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When I was having air intrusion at the filter head it was an oring
For the fuel heater.

You must be registered for see images attach

Oring is under connector on top
 

Farmer Rock

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I am sure you don't want to hear this, but If you have air intrusion, fix the problem and don't mask it. If you want an E pump, use it fulltime as intended or as a backup to the mechanical. JMHO




Rock
 

IDIBRONCO

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I am sure you don't want to hear this, but If you have air intrusion, fix the problem and don't mask it. If you want an E pump, use it fulltime as intended or as a backup to the mechanical. JMHO




Rock
I have to agree with this. I use the one on my 1985 F250 very sparingly. As in ONLY to bleed out the air after installing a new fuel filter and (once) as a back up when the last mechanical pump started acting up. If you use one very often, you have a pretty good chance of rupturing the diaphragm in the mechanical pump and then you will pump fuel into your oil which will cause a mess of problems if left as is.
 

Craig58

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Understand that this topic isn't new but what I'm reading as I go through the entire 1600 some odd pages is that there are a lot of issues with electric pumps delivering proper amounts of fuel in various conditions. My manual pump is the original from 1988 and it seems to be working just fine. My only issue is when I go to start the truck it's literal he'll to get it to start. Only after bleeding the filter head which is wasting fuel do I eventually get it started. Haven't had this issue until about the last year. Have owned it since 1990. So that's why I want to install a electric pump for priming only, would really appreciate a step by step instruction on how to do it from one of senior members that have knowledge where it could be found. I fixed two sets of leaking orings on two injectors but didn't remedy the situation so I'm kinda lost
 

typ4

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Facet 40109. 3/8 npt fittings, built in check ball, is able to bee "pull thru". Mine has been on for 14 years. I use it for priming. Im pretty sure the check feature is why I have zero starting issues. I have it on a toggle . It is mounted in front of switch valve and I pull fuel thru a detroit primary as first line of defense.
Pegasus racing has the best price.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/p...HOxD7xkFowQoGGDW32_huSbdn0xttJBRoC-gEQAvD_BwE
 

hesutton

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Facet 40109. 3/8 npt fittings, built in check ball, is able to bee "pull thru". Mine has been on for 14 years. I use it for priming. Im pretty sure the check feature is why I have zero starting issues. I have it on a toggle . It is mounted in front of switch valve and I pull fuel thru a detroit primary as first line of defense.
Same setup on my old '86 crew cab. The toggle is there when I change a filter or some other fuel part to bleed air before restarting the truck.

Zero starting issues or running issues with this combo.

Heath
 

Craig58

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typ4, your saying the pump is mounted down by the selector valve on the frame rail? The toggle switch is inside the cab to prime the system before you start it, correct?
 

Kevin 007

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I am an E fuel guy. I won't get into why in this thread

But if I were to run both E and mech lift pumps for priming or as a backup, I would install manual ball valves on either side of the E pump and short bypass around it so I can manually bypass the E pump when the mech pump is running so it's not pulling thru the E pump all the time
 

Oldschool280

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When my truck started having issues i just yanked the hose off of the old pump, and left it there. Its not leaking oil. I installed an inline pump right under the hood fed from the fuel solenoid wire and problem solved. Changing filters is a breeze with the priming of the electric pump. I have read that too much presssure cN cause problems but my pump is a 4-7# pump. I have a regulator but have not installed it as the truck runs fantastic as is.
 

Craig58

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So an update to my selected method to try and get my truck running reliably again. Finally got to the point of ordering the fuel pump from Pegasus Racing. So I called them and talked with their technical department explaining what my issue was concerning my truck. To my surprise, they strongly discouraged using their pumps to mask the problem! The person I spoke to said I needed to find the place where the air is getting into the system, repair it and then if I wanted to convert to an electric pump then do it. He said if I have an air intrusion problem the pump will just pump more air creating a bigger problem. So I'm going back to the drawing board on how to fix my truck. Farmer Rock, you suggested fixing my problem by finding the air intrusion point. Would you consider sharing a step by step procedure to go through my fuel system to isolate my problem?
 

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