E4OD to ZF-5 swap update.

[BigRigTech]

A little update, I bought a 95 Dakota 4x4 for $200 with a MVI good for more 2 months so the F250 is getting laid up early this week to get finished. I'm thinking 1-2 weeks and it should be ready again. What is the torque spec for the single mass flywheel bolts and ZF clutch bolts? There will be pic's as I go along. I could use a little help, can somebody measure the location of the clutch M/C on the firewall so I can drill it only "once"......And maybe give me a rough ball part on where to cut the hole for the stick? I have bucket seats with a center console....A measurement from the console would be fine.

 

[The Warden]

And maybe give me a rough ball part on where to cut the hole for the stick? I have bucket seats with a center console....A measurement from the console would be fine.

No measurements readily available, but will these pictures help?

 

[BigRigTech]

That does help, thanks. If memory serves me right my truck has the removable floor pan like that but I don't remember if the pan has the trans shifter hole cut into it or not. I know it has the t-case shifter hole cut into for sure, I saw the screws for that one....Maybe it has both ....That would be helpful. I spent the day working on the $200 dakota 4x4, 4 new balljoints, 4 new shocks, new sway bar bushings and 2 new u-joints in the front axle driveshaft.....Drives like new....I'm glad I don't work on Dodges too much, who ever thought of a screw in balljoint should be shot. ....I ended up having to weld the drivers side upper balljoint in place - the threads were toast....Plated, insured and safe for the road again so it's time to get the ol' Ford in my shop tommorow night.

 

[Jake S.]

My '86 had dimples on the firewall where I had to drill for the master. I measured the size of the holes from the master, chucked up a bit and drilled. Used a hole saw for the center hole. Fit like a glove.

 

[BigRigTech]

Ditto, that's pretty much what I was going to do. I'll have to take a peak and see if my firewall has the dimples too.

 

[82F100SWB]

Your truck should have a bolted in blockoff plate where the clutch master goes, I know my 90 does.
As for the shifter panel, you may need to get one so you have proper clearance for the trans, it kicks up a good bit more than one for an auto does.

 

[Diesel JD]

Hmm, block off plate for locating a master cylinder? Do the 80-86 trucks have this as well? It sure would make life easier!

 

[The Warden]

If memory serves me right my truck has the removable floor pan like that but I don't remember if the pan has the trans shifter hole cut into it or not. I know it has the t-case shifter hole cut into for sure, I saw the screws for that one

To my knowledge, all '80-'97 trucks have a removable floor pan. The shifter hole probably won't be cut into it, though.

I kept my 1345 transfer case when I swapped trannies, and the 1345's shift lever comes up in a different spot than the 1356's does (actually, the 1356 doesn't come out of that insert at all; it comes out lower and through the "main" pan). I had to guesstimate and cut the hole myself with a Dremel tool. The pan insert you see was meant for a ZF, though, so I didn't have to cut the hole for the tranny.

I don't know what difference exists between a pan insert for a ZF and one for a slushbox, but I can tell you from direct experience that an insert for a T-19 will not fit without some modifications I would imagine that a slushbox's case would be physically larger, though, so I'd be surprised if a slushbox pan insert wouldn't work with your ZF. I could be mistaken, though...

 

[82F100SWB]

Not all 80-97 trucks have a removable floor pan, for certain at least 80-86 2wd automatic or column shift 3 speed trucks had a solid panel, with the stamping that the removable plate is in place. I've swapped a few three on the tree trucks to 4 speed, and it was a matter of drill the holes, then cut about 1/2" inside of them to create the access hole. I know an insert for the older slushboxes isn't tall enough, but, an E4OD is a huge mother compared, so, it may be tall enough. I know on a Super Duty, the whole tunnel is different auto vs. stick(manual is quite a bit bigger) like the old GM 2wd/4wd cab difference. Of course, the solution to all of this is a body lift...

The 87+ trucks run the transfer case shift lever through a hole in the main floor pan, about 6" further left than the 80-86 trucks do. That will be there 2wd or not, just need to unbolt the block off plate and bolt on the boot.

As for the clutch master mounting, the block off plate is at the oldest 87+, possibly even newer. 82-86 trucks do have the re-enforcement plate on the firewall drilled, so you just have to drill the firewall itself using the holes in the re-enforcement plate as a guide. That's what I did on the 82 cab(the BBF powered F250 now)

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Unfortunately, I can't find any before pictures. That cab started life with a linkage clutch. I got lucky and found an 82 with an auto and was able to steal it's plug for the linkage hole.

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The diesel, the cab is an 81, so, it wasn't marked in any way, so, I cut the section out of the firewall from the factory cab to use as a guide... It didn't make it 2 years before it cracked up bigtime, whereas 5 years down the road I've never had an issue with the gasser....

 

[BigRigTech]

Great pics, thanks. I have to fab up my own shifter and mount for the divorced t-case. I'm going to use a stock shifter handle and mod it for my needs. The truck is getting laid up tommorow night so I'll take some pics before I start. My trans tunnel is huge, the E4OD is a big pig. What is the clutch and SM flywheel torque spec? I have some new CATERPILLAR bolts for my clutch.

 

[BigRigTech]

My used clutch M/C has a broken mounting stud, does anyone know if the stud threads into the metal insert in the plastic M/C body? I have my usual tricks to get stuff like this out but having the insert in molded plastic can make it a little tricky. What's a new M/C worth and how do you get the plastic line off of it?

 

[FordGuy100]

I bought my clutch master cylinder at napa for like $50. Here is a quick drawing on how to get the line out.

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My line is red, so thats what I used

 

[BigRigTech]

Thanks, I saw that there but it was rusted and I couldn't tell if it was a split pin or a small screw/bolt. I'll price one up today. I'm supposed to trailer my 63 Mercury to my cousins tonight and then the garage is ready for the truck.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well if your changing master Cyl....why not go and do the slave too at the same time...that way you have both parts new....and you should be able to bench bleed the whole enchilada before installing it to make thins even MORE simple.

Just a thought....I would still Bench bleed if I was only getting a new master, BTW

 

[BigRigTech]

Mu M/C has a broken stud, if I can't get it out or weld a new one to it without friggin the plastic I will have to buy a new one. I called around today, the best I can do is $85 plus taxes. ....But atleast Carquest has it in stock if I need it. I just backed the truck into the garage 10 minutes ago, the carnage is going to commence tonight. I washed it off all over and underneath and let it drip dry tonight so I can undercoat it as well. There will be some before pic's tonight.